Well Im right back to where I started from. After putting in the Brace on the RDAR module and seeing 0008 mA I thought I had it licked. The following is the readings I now get just looking at my meter and writing down what I see after hibernation. 0007mA then 0040ma then 0028 then 0855, 0459, 0865, 0431, 0064, 0118, 0834,0640, 0847, 0431, 0050, 0844. This just keeps going and going and never stays at 0008, just keeps jumping around randomly. New Alternator, new battery (3rd 0ne) ALL fuses pulled, all relays pulled, RDAR now has a BRACE in it, the only light I see at night that is on is the blinking start stop button, even pulled off connectors to the doors. WHAT AM I MISSING!

 

Well Im right back to where I started from. After putting in the Brace on the RDAR module and seeing 0008 mA I thought I had it licked. The following is the readings I now get just looking at my meter and writing down what I see after hibernation. 0007mA then 0040ma then 0028 then 0855, 0459, 0865, 0431, 0064, 0118, 0834,0640, 0847, 0431, 0050, 0844. This just keeps going and going and never stays at 0008, just keeps jumping around randomly. New Alternator, new battery (3rd 0ne) ALL fuses pulled, all relays pulled, RDAR now has a BRACE in it, the only light I see at night that is on is the blinking start stop button, even pulled off connectors to the doors. WHAT AM I MISSING!

 

Well Im right back to where I started from. After putting in the Brace on the RDAR module and seeing 0008 mA I thought I had it licked. The following is the readings I now get just looking at my meter and writing down what I see after hibernation. 0007mA then 0040ma then 0028 then 0855, 0459, 0865, 0431, 0064, 0118, 0834,0640, 0847, 0431, 0050, 0844. This just keeps going and going and never stays at 0008, just keeps jumping around randomly. New Alternator, new battery (3rd 0ne) ALL fuses pulled, all relays pulled, RDAR now has a BRACE in it, the only light I see at night that is on is the blinking start stop button, even pulled off connectors to the doors. WHAT AM I MISSING!

 

Because the only thing I see is that consistent on and off light in the start and stop switch at night, perhaps that is my next avenue to explore. I do not believe I should be seeing this light if the car is off and hours past hibernation. The 2013 xc60 fuse 24, page 21 of the wiring diagram gives the hint that it is the passenger side fuse box B (see owners manual page 346). It is my plan to pull fuse 24 and to verify that the parasitic drag on the battery is gone. The problem is.... that I have pulled this fuse before and saw no change in the reading. However it does appear that the CEM might include the immoblizer and the relay for SCL. If there ARE relays on this fuse box B, I have not pulled any relays in this area.

 

This is crazy in TOTAL contrast..........Last night I decided to pull off the BMS connector for 16 seconds putting it back on and letting it sit overnight. The battery was at 11.04VDC when I got up this morning. Started the car up (no low battery warning) and ran it till got the battery to read 12.54VDC. Pulled off the negative battery terminal, connected negative in series with DMM switched to the Amp position and now I'm get a reading of 0007mA. Yesterday afternoon it was a high of 0855mA. I tried the process again and when I hooked up the meter in series I get 0007mA. This is an elusive drain to say the least. Yesterday it read 0855mA and today it reads 0007ma. Is there another (better) method to troubleshoot this wild unstable condition?

 

Hoonk,
So today it is back to the old 0439mA - 0855mA. back and forth drain. Yesterday it was fine. Somebody must know a better method of finding such an unusual drain. I thought of just pulling PF1 and PF2 but can't do that.

 

Hoonk,
I decided today to get another battery (4th) as my last one was 615 CCA. This time I got a new 690CCA as part of a swap. Anyway, the new battery showed 12.80 VDC statically. The second I installed the battery it immediately dropped to12.62VDC. I pulled off the neg connection and read the battery, now it reads 12.74VDC. So there is still a bit of a drain going on. I'm a bit insecure to hook up the new battery with the drain going on. If after connecting the new battery, I pull off the BMS connector so the system can ID the SOC for the battery with a drain going on.....how is the computer going to ID the battery correctly?

 

Use Vida, a compatible scan tool or the you tube method to reset the battery monitor after installing a new battery

What size battery are you using 48 H6, 92T7?

 

48PRMJ 690 cranking amp. I did the remove BMS for 15 seconds and lock everything down overnight, My results was: on installation the (1 day old) battery was at 12.74 VDC after overnight it was at 12.48VDC. But if the car is draining the battery constantly, how will the ECM identify the proper SOC? Logically it cannot.

After as many days as I have been working this problem, I am pretty convinced the the vehicle is NOT remaining in sleep mode due to the start stop button illuminating frequently. Using the cardboard of a TP roll (as a way of blocking all light) and sitting in the car closing and locking the doors, the start stop light does not always go out in a timely fashion. Example: when the doors are shut and the car is locked, the instrument panel lighting goes out right away.....the start button remains lite and sometimes it goes out maybe 30 seconds later and will illuminate then turn off. Schematic shows (pg 74) that 2 of the 3 wires that go to the ignition switch go to the CEM and that 1 of those wires are bridged to the ECM that go to Ag (???). Because of the CAN and LIN (high/low) signals on the CEM it appears that these signals are the HIBERNATION connected to a timing component. Do you think I'm on to something?

 

Hoonk,
I have a tough question. After reading about BMW sleep modes, This question is for someone who uses VIDA/DICE. Can VIDA/DICE identify if during sleep mode which module is still awake? I'm curious if VIDA is capable of seeing the modules shutting down? Here is a BMW quote "The start/stop button illuminating is just a symptom of your actual problem. As you seem to be aware, something is causing your vehicle to wake out of sleep mode".

 

This thread talks about Vida current measuring capabilities during sleep - (in the later posts)

https://www.swedespeed.com/threads/v...a-user.652849/

 

Hoonk, Sir
I have been talking with LozinOz of SwedeSpeed for some time now. I Took my xc60 car to the dealer and they do not know how to troubleshoot my battery draining problem. I have been in constant contact with LozinOz since 11/14/23. This is the latest quote from him "I’m sadly out of ideas - need next level specialist with experience on these matters" The last conversation I sent went like this: Very sorry, I did not know that I had not told you that I pulled EVERY FUSE and RELAY 1 by 1 except the 2 relays in the CEM ( forward of the glovebox). This was the VERY FIRST method I tried. NO SIGNIFICANT CHANGE and not an easy thing to do. Even the lower fuse bank (fuses) in the engine bay was pulled out and tested. I did a voltage drop as well for the fuses and a visual + OHM check on each fuse. The issue is the ignition start light corresponding with the amount of the draw. Ie.. light comes on and the draw is high, light dims down and the draw is low while in sleep mode. I was going to back probe the ignition (3/1) but getting to that is quite difficult. 3 of those 4 wires go to the CEM but the CEM has a lot (47 I believe) inputs and any 1 of them can be the issue of not going into a complete sleep mode.

Is there anybody that is extremely knowledgeable with the Network RING on the Volvos. If somebody likes a REALLY GOOD CHALLENGE, I've got one. I'm not sure that these dealers are capable of doing real troubleshooting. I have put 4 new batteries in this car in 3 months. I had a 10 day old battery and the dealer tries to tell me that the 4th battery is the cause but will not provide Quiescent values.

 

Hoonk, I discovered that by removing the RDAR from my MOST RING network solved my battery draining problems....sort of. Once I put a loop on my RDAR the draining issue returns. So I certainly believe that something within the MOST LOOP is the culprit. After 20 days at the dealer ship, they claim a 4.6mV is happening to the ICM when the sleep mode is supposed to be set. So here is the clincher...How do you isolate the battery drain to the MOST RING network since the loop is only designed for the RDAR? I'm sure there is no "LOOP" for all the other modules. If the dealer saw a 4.6mV at the ICM, what is to say that 4.6mv is not coming from another module feeding it to the ICM? The dealer was NOT sure if the ICM upgrade would solve the issue.

 

Hoonk, swissxc90 talks about ring loop problems...........is there anyway to get a hold of him?