As described above, p0422 code. Cat converter is fine, nothing rattling inside and the fume doesn't smell bad at all.
1-Curious about leakage somewhere but not sure how or where to check for it.
2- Efficient way to check 02 sensors (Will not put a blowtorch onto them -.- that may ruin whatever is inside)
3- MAF sensor troubleshooting (Unplugged MAF while car was running, still ran, humming was more intense though, don't know if these are suppose to happen or if its suppose to immediately shut down)
4- OBD2 says to reset a ECM adaptation? What and how to do this?

 

For a 19 year old Volvo - put a rear o2 sensor extender on. Or spend lots of time and money to TRY to solve a cat efficiency code.

No good way to test wideband o2 sensors, Maf testing - compare values in VIDA with a known good or new one.

As far as resetting the engine adaptation - There is nothing in VIDA to specifically do that - I found on a 2001 of mine that would set codes due to a weird ARD tune that was installed - simply erasing all codes seemed to reset things and the car would run better. Or disconnect battery and touch + and - together to drain some of the memory in all control units.

 

Is the extender just making the Sensor longer? Why would I need that if it is already the length it should be at? What is a ARD tune and with that method of draining some of the memory, am I at risk of having to get it reprogrammed if I do the + and - touch?

 

Extender moves the rear sensor further away from the exhaust stream so it's less likely to see the remaining oxygen in the system. In theory there should be almost none - but your rear o2 still sees some and sets a code. It's a common tactic people use to fool the cat code.

ARD was a tuner that worked for IPD i think at one point and opened his own business - he offered "tuned" ECU's and other stuff for more horsepower. Hilton, IPD and others still offer "tunes".

It is a common action to drain all power from controls units, using the touch +and -. You will/may lose your auto up/down on the windows - and some cars might need VIDA or appropriate scan tool to reprogram them. Reprogram auto up on later cars can be done with the window switch.

 

So having an extender is just basically like wiping out the code like an OBD2 scanner, but more permanent? An out of sight out of mind technique?

 

Yes you erase the code with your scanner, then if the rear sensor is far enough out of the way - and it does not see too much oxygen - the code will not come back.

"out of sight out of mind" - the check engine light comes on because the car thinks you are polluting. Your exhaust stream mainly consists of HC, CO, O2 and NO. The the front section of the catalytic converter covert the first three chemicals into H2O and CO2, using up most of the oxygen atoms. If it does not do that - you get a cat efficiency code because the rear sensor found too much oxygen.

Choices - replace cat converter - factory converter is probably over $1500. Aftermarket ones have very little platinum, palladium and rhodium in them which is why they are cheaper - and will not last as long.

Or - try an extender for small $

 

Update: drove the care for a bit, engine light hasn't come back on yet *crosses fingers it never does*. Autozone didn't have a spacer, but got a spark plug spacer instead, worked as well!