Is it difficult to remove the drive shaft from my 2000 XC70? I have a vibration that occurs during highway speed deceleration. The dealer said he could remove and rebuild but I am hoping to avoid their labor charges and get it balanced/rebuilt myself. I would have had the dealer do it but when I brought it in for the rebuild another tech said it was the torque converter not the driveshaft (BIG $$$). I am hoping that removal of the driveshaft will help diagnose as well. Can I drive it as a front wheel drive while the shaft is out?

Thanks,

Tirewall

 

It isn't all that hard to get it out.
Yes you can drive it with the driveshaft missing.

 

It took less than 1 hour to remove the driveshaft. I was experiencing a stutter/thump when the car shifted in and out of overdrive. With the shaft removed, I get no noise at all. Now I need to determine if the shaft needs new bearings, ujoint, flanges, balancing, etc. It definitely was NOT my torque converter which is what my local dealer said was the problem. I will reply with more info as I get it. Thanks again!

 

It may be a problem with your rear end which you took out of the equation when you removed the shaft.
What does a visual inspection of the shaft indicate?
How important is your AWD?

 

How did the story end. I am having the same problem with my 2000xc70. I was told that I could run it as a 2WD with no problem. How log did you run yours?

 

I just removed the drive shaft and the "Torque Tube" attached to the rear differential. Torque Tube is what the Vadis picture called it out of the dealer manual. Anyway...the 'clutch' part inside the torque tube is bad on this 1999 XC70. I am looking for a new clutch or someway to repair this guy.

The car runs fine w/o the rear drive shaft however the ABS does not like it. It must be sensing slip of the front wheels on the snow and sends a sequence of rapid bursts somewhere. Only happens if the road is snowy and loss of traction. This did not happen before.

This torque tube assy must be the thing that others call the viscous coupler. Or maybe the VC is part of the 'clutch' inside the torque tube.

Anybody know how to repair this darn thing or someplace to send it for repair?

 

I had the same consideration recently. Our 2000 XC, which we bought certified used with about 42K, had already had a new drive shart, new VC, new tourque converter, and damned near everything related to the AWD system replaced, and with 110k, the drive shaft went again (and I expected the rest to follow shortly). Though about running it FWD, but the damned thing went out in December, and getting up my driveway in the snow all but requires AWD. So now we've got a 2007 Subaru Tribeca...I love it and my wife doesn't (lifetime Volvo driver), and its her car.

Anyway, I'm convinced that the pre Haldex AWD XC's are a disaster waiting to happen. I'm wondering if the later XC70's and XC90's have similar issues, as I may be back in the market soon.

 

Hi!

1. I'm just wandering that it's normal/usual to have problems with the driveshaft and transfer case around 100 000 and 150 000 Km? My car (V70 XC 2001) has 138 000 Km.

I had to get off my driveshaft because it becomes noisy.

2. There are some places where you can rebuild them instead of using something already used? It's a big difference in terms of warranty – used or rebuilt?

The prices that I found for driveshaft around $800 US and for the transfer case $1500 US, for new parts from US (Swedish parts). From Canadian Volvo dealers are even higher.

3. The fact that I removed the driveshaft affects the ABS functioning? One of the mechanics that I was explained to me because the car is 4x4 without driveshaft the wheels from the back will send a different lecture to the ABS from the front wheels that makes the ABS to be malfunctioning. It turned my ABS off – bypassed the ABS module. Before turning off the ABS module, I also had a noisefrom the ABS module at low speed that disappears around 60 Km/h and the ABS warning light comes on.

Can I use my ABS without a functional transfer case and driveshaft or I should replace them before taking care of ABS warning?

I also have check engine light with the code P1550 (I already checked on the forum and seemed to be related indirectly to the ABS warning that comes before the check engine warning light).



4. I replaced the bushings and the steering rack and I still have some noise from the front part of the car? What should I take into consideration next?

5. What are the other regular major expenses that I should expect besides the transfer case and driveshaft for this car? Does it makes any sense to keep it any longer? All have the same problems?
Anticipated thanks, Costin

 

I had a 2000 xc that I removed the driveshaft (also called propshaft) b/c it was banging and noisy. The propshaft (at the rubber boot side on the motor side) was shot, the rubber was torn and the joint was dry. I removed it and i ran the car like that for a year without any issues other than it would spin the front tires easily. Had no issues with the ABS or anything else.
I do have spare propshaft in good shape for $200 if you are looking for one.