Hi all, I've noticed a few times over the past year or so that my 2005 Volvo XC90 (131,000 miles) makes a knocking or popping noise that feels and sounds like it comes from right under my feet when driving. I notice it happens most when going over bumps or uneven roads, or when I turn. It almost sounds like when I was little and would jump onto an older bed with a metal frame that "pops" or "knocks."

It's started happening a lot more--today I heard it probably 10 times, which is why I'm on here!

The car drives normally and I just had it inspected, and it passed no problem. Would an old belt make that noise? What is there right under my feet that would make that noise? Thank you!!

 

Welcome to Volvo Forums lulu315

It might be from the steering or suspension parts getting old and not sliding or flexing due to age. Even the bushings in the control arm can sometimes make a creaking or popping noise due to age, wear and tear. Tie rod end, sway bar bushings, control arm bushings, ball joint, the CV joints (torn boots), exhaust ?? Trying to find a noise is much more involved than just checking over for a visual inspection.
It would all look normal but unless you can duplicate the noise and then get in there and use some penetrating lube or WD40 on one part at a time to try and locate it you're kind of shooting in the dark.

I'd also take a good look at the upper strut mount and bounce the fender to see if there's motion. I know you said under your feet but that stuff can travel and that mount could act the way you describe. Engine mounts too.

 

Thank you!! I took it to the shop and they said the bushings are really bad and they also think one of the belts is, too. Do you know how much bushings and belts typically cost? Thank you--you were so right!!

 

you have two issues to think about: 1) belts. Your car should have had its timing belt done at 120K/10 years so if that maintenance hasn't been done yet, do that asap. If your belts are making noises it means one of the idlers is worn and that puts you at risk of having a belt go, where the best case scenario is you get a tow and a new belt for $100, the worst is your timing belt goes and you're looking at a $2000 valve job. 2) bushings. Cost depends on which bushings are bad. What did your shop say are worn, ie control arm bushings? Sway bar bushings? Sway bar bushings may require the subframe be loosened to access the bushings, end links can be replaced by simply removing the tire. Control arm bushings are pressed in so most shops simply replace the control arms along with the ball joints. Considering you'd want to do both sides, I'd guess 750 plus or minus 250