Not finding concise info on if I am able to rotate the crank for the 3.2 inline 6 cyl. .....it's a 08 if that matters.engine is burning oil in isolated " events" and I'm suspicious it's a intermittently sticking pcv valve but I don't know any other reason how it could do that and I just want to double check that the leak down test doesn't show any bad cylinders but I don't even understand how that could be a bad cylinder, because then it would be burning oil all the time im pretty sure. I've never experienced this on a vehicle where all of a sudden in a very short amount of time it burns enough oil to trip the light off which is like a quart and a half low but then you can drive the car for months and it doesn't lose a drop of oil.

 

not sure about the question you are asking here but there are three different ways to check your cylinders - You can start with a dry compression test where you pop off the coils/remove the plugs, insert the compression gauge and crank with the key for a few revolutions. You should see 150 PSI or so on a turbo engine, and a bit more like 170-180 for an NA engine. Do all six and compare. If you get a low reading, drop a few tbs of motor oil in the spark plug hole and repeat. If the PSI reading goes up it implies the oil helped the rings seal better... If the PSIs are the same wet and dry then that suggests the leak ie elsewhere - ie valves or head gasket. You can also use an inspection cam to look for any scoring on the walls, ding marks on the piston crowns and visible valve damage. If you decide to do a leak down test, you should be able to turn the crank by hand - start by using the timing mark to find TDC for #1. You can also insert a rod (or long screw drive) to feel when the piston comes up to TDC for #2 to 6. With all that said, if the dry compression test shows a normal compression that's consistent across all 6 (say give or take 10 PSI) then there's no reason to do any further tests.

If you suspect the PCV system, you may want to simply replace the oil separator and then inspect/clean all the intake tubing and MAF and then go from there.

 

For the leak-down test, rotating the crankshaft is possible. You'll need to turn it to test each cylinder. Turning the crankshaft lets you see if the piston rings, valves, and cylinder head gasket are sealing properly in all cylinders, giving you a clear picture of any issues.

As for your suspicion about the PCV valve, it's worth looking into, but there could be other reasons for the problem. can be caused by different things like worn valve stem seals, piston rings, or even minor damage to the cylinder walls. The abrupt fluctuations in oil levels you described suggest an intermittent fault rather than a consistent mechanical issue.

Doing an oil analysis can also be helpful. It can reveal contaminants, metal wear, and other indicators of the engine's internal condition. This can help pinpoint what's causing the oil loss.