I am attempting a timing belt and pulley replacement on my 05 XC90 T6 but I'm stuck at getting the crank pulley off. I can't seem to get that 30mm to come lose. Tried penetrating oil even though it shows no sign of rust. First try with cam holder I ended up causing belt to slip on crank enough that the crank moved 1/4 turn, (from 12 O'clock to 9 O'clock counter clock wise). Cams did not move.
So second try using a crank holding tool and a 2 foot breaker bar I broke the holding tool (YAY). Even used impact tool to try and get it loose.

Cant believe the tensioner roller is plastic (the cause of timing codes I was getting from it coming apart) and the replacement is also plastic. POS plastic just shattered into pieces, lucky it didn't cause belt to come off.
Speaking of belt it still looks new and bearings feel tight and smooth on tensioner. Someones dumb **** idea to use a plastic roller. Premature failure I assume.

First question, did I mess up timing position if I leave the cams where they are and turn the crank back to 12 O'clock?
and second, how do I get this nut off without possibly damaging something?

 

No suggestions?

 

Which instructions are you using? I have never done a belt on a T6 but on the older I6 cars that was not a need to remove the crank/balancer.

CORRECTION: THIS IS NOT A GOOD IDEA: (I suggest you cut the belt before you damage some valves trying to bust the crank bolt loose).

It would be best to keep the belt on if you are breaking a crank bolt loose. The motor should remain in TIME to avoid the possibility of internal contact / damage. The force of extensions, impact tools, and other powerful methods can cause a piston to crash into a valve (OR VALVES) and bend it.

THE BEST THING TO DO IN THIS CASE WOULD BE TO SECURE THE BELT, TIMED PROPERLY, WITH A NEW TENSIONER. Then break the crank bolt loose.

 

i would try to find out if it is reverse threaded first.... it may have loctite or something on it. you may need heat to break that bond. but I would be really concerned of damaging something by using so much force.

 

Well Crank pulley is like a 2 piece 4-13mm bolts holding the outer part which I think is a balancer and then the pulley with the 30mm nut that turns the accessories belt (serpentine).
I have the belt off everything but the crank now and with the cams on their marks, the crank will turn freely, with the exception of compression, as many revolutions as i want now. No interference with valves.
I was trying to see if I could squeeze T-belt past the crank pulley but its too tight. Cant get it past what looks like a T-belt guide casting on the block.

 

Its standard thread. Get a better impact and/or compressor. I've done hundreds of timing belts and I've never had a problem. And I take the pulley off on all of them.

Turning the crank with the cams set is a bad idea. Hopefully you put it back right and not 180* off. You shouldn't be able to turn it fully either, hopefully nothing is bent.

 

Ok, I dont think I went a whole 180 deg when turning the crank just noticed that I could go quite a ways with it.
If I did go 180 off how do i find out? I thought that part didn't mater as long as I get all Marks lined up (2 cams and crank marks).
I was turning it slowly to see if I could find the small score marks on the teeth but with no luck. So I need to get pulley off to see the raised knot under the pulley for the other mark I hear they have also.

 

 

Item 4 and 6 is the 2 piece I mentioned

 

The crank turns twice for each time the cams turn once. So you can be 180* off of you've been spinning the crank and not keeping track.

 

OK that makes sense. compression and exhaust. Wonder how I tell if its off 180? Im pretty sure I put it back to around original position from where I started.

 

Only way is with the special tool that pins the crank.

 

You have to take out the spark plug from cyl 1 and turn the crank until the piston reaches TDC . Go back and look at your mark you should be spot on.....two things to look for here ...piston is at the top of the cylinder and that the timing mark is in the correct position.

 

Its not timed at TDC, but close.

You also have to be sure its on compression I believe.

 

I'm waiting on a bigger impact from a friend, see if that helps. noticed the one I got barley loosen the lug nuts. sounds a little wimpy to me.

 

Buddy keeps forgetting that impact.
Anyways I been messing around with that crank and I need definite conformation that if belt is off and the cams are setting on their marks that the crank can turn a complete 360 deg. and not hit.
I know I couldn't have bent anything. I only been turning by hand and not once has it ever got in a bind to bend or break valves. I know the difference between compression resistance and a hard spot. I'm a supervisor in the commercial construction trade I am pretty mechanical incline. I have to be.

 

You shouldn't be able to turn the crank fully since it is an interference motor. I have never tried it though, never had a reason to. When I retime a motor because I had the cams out, I use the special tools to make quick, accurate work of it.

 

Well I was just checking to see if it would hit because a guy at work told me to use the starter to break nut loose. By wedging the socket and ratchet against frame and bump starter. I wanted to make sure if it did break loose that it wouldn't spin to far and bend or break stuff.
Anyways I tried it and got the nut to loosen. Crank only spun about 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
So belt is off. T-stat housing is off, to make repairs to the obvious, if you know what I'm talking about? .. Going to hit the plumber up tomorrow for a possible fitting.
Now I just need to find out if I jacked something up with that crank able to rotate freely.

 

Did you bump the starter with the belt off? Very bad idea.

 

Yes no belt, belt is doing no good because tensioner wont hold belt tight enough not to slip. Like I said Cams at their marks, no belt and I feel no resistance when I turned crank, trying to get it back to its original position from first go around trying to loosen that nut when the belt was still on.
Keep in mind that car was running just fine other then the Codes it through 1k miles ago. Found out reason for codes is possibly belt slippage from that idiotic design of a plastic sleeve on a tensioner that came apart.