Bumping the starter moved crank from lets say 12 O'clock to about 6 O'clock when nut came loose. I was able to do that by socket and ratchet when I was checking if it would hit just incase earlier today before trying starter.

 

I wouldn't be surprised if you have no compression when you get it back together. Nothing you can do now except re-time it and put the belt on.

 

Yeah, I was afraid something like that would happen, just my luck. Never fails.
I still feel compression about every 1/2 turn of the crank with the belt off even now.

 

ES6T can you find out for me if all the valves are closed or pretty much almost closed, when both Cams are at their mark. Maybe they are at clearances at that mark. Not sure its possible on 16 valves.
Being that your profile says your volvo tech. Perhaps you or someone at your shop might know.

 

The stroke is determined by the position of the valves, not what the crank is doing. Example if I were to be turning the engine by hand and cyl 1 was in compression stroke, that could easily change to exhaust stoke just by turning the valves. So as long as you have the piston on top of cyl 1 and your timing mark on the crank is correct, your ready to move on to valve timing.

 

There is no documented info like this from Volvo but they are certainly not all closed.

Just because there is a YouTube video of a backyard way to remove the crank nut doesn't mean it is a good idea. If its done with the belt on, much less risky. But turning the engine with the belt off is a bad idea.

Nothing else you can do at this point except put the belt on and hope for the best.

 

Haha whoops! Good catch!

 

Man oh man did this thread progress in a way I did not expect. I actually went back and changed my initial post because of its progression.

I have recently read that a crank or cam could be rotated 360° if the timing marks were on, so I went to the junk yard to give it a try.

Wasn't the same motor but I think the I5 in the S70 is in the same class, I may be wrong. Anyway, with all timing marks on I cut the belt. I also pulled the plugs so I would not experience compression. When I tried to spin the crank I did experience valve contact about 240° into the first cycle. I then turned the crank back to the mark and tried the cams. The exhaust can spun 360° without any contact. The intake cam experienced a little resist at one point then continued around several times. That being my experience I'd say no to turning the crank around with the belt off.

I do apologize for suggesting that you cut that belt the other day. I was concerned with you trying to force that crank bolt loose with a loose belt (tensioner off) and didn't think it through. When you get everything back together do a compression test, if it comes back bad on any cylinder you have bent valves. PM me and I'll do what I can to help you out.

If you have not seen a overhead cam do Google a pic of one. It has lobes in several positions of stroke, at NO time will many of the valves be in the same position of stroke. I'm afraid bumping that starter likely did damage but as ES6T expressed, you need to put it all back together to be sure.

 

It is easy to be sure you are not 180° off on your crank. Pull #1, raise it to its highest point, then put the crank on its mark. It won't be TDC but it will be properly aligned.

 

Well I can say I never went more then maybe 300-360deg, didn't want to go past 360deg just incase.
And that was done all by hand turn. Then I would turn it back about where it started.
Using the starter to bump it I had wife at the key while I watched as soon as I seen nut move that was it.
Crank moved maybe 90deg. I turned crank back to where I thought it all started from, pull the pulley off and that crank timing mark I was looking for, to start with in the begiening of this wonderfull adventure , was setting about 11 O'clock. block mark is around
12 O'clock.
So hopefully all Is well.

 

I hope so as well.

I have broken several tool (1/2" size), pulling crank bolts, mostly off Honda's which have a great holding system (requires a special holding tool). I've had cams move, cranks turn, but all have fallen back in place with no issues. Hopefully you will be as blessed as I have been.

 

Thanks for the faith.
This is my 3rd volvo, 2nd xc90. Fell in love with volvo with 1st 89 740gl with 300k mil. The the first xc after a whole oak tree fell on it. All that happen was a 6" crease on the top all across the 2 back passenger doors and a window busted. But they went ahead and totaled it.

 

My avatar shows that first XC with tree broken over the top

 

LOL, Ouch!

 

Today I pulled the thermostat housing, drilled, tapped and new brass fitting elbow. I will try and get time this weekend to put it all back together.
I will keep in touch on results.

 

I am about to start putting it all back together I notice that my cams have about 3 teeth of play in them. I can turn them back and forth with no effort at all.
Is this the reason they say to turn the whole timing system past the marks, then rotate back to marks before taking the belt off to replace?

 

That's the CVVT function. The cam isn't moving, just the CVVT hub.

 

How should these be set then? turn them 1/4 turn CW then slowly back CCW till im right on marks? or vise versa?

 

With the belt off, just move them back so the marks line up. As long as you didn't loosen the center bolt and move them from their position on the camshaft.

 

He's concerned about the feeling of "slack" in the cams. Does that not matter?