These past couple days I did some work on my car. All I did was re-do my catch can, replace the passenger axle, and took the strut assemblies out and put them back in. Started my car back up, and now I get DTC Code 4-4-4, which is this:

DTC information 4–4–4

Condition
When the ignition is switched on, control module #33 and #53 is supplied with power. Then #3 records the supply, which means that the power supply to the solenoid valves is OK. If the control module does not detect any supply at #3, it posts DTC 4–4–4.

Substitute value
ABS/TRACS cuts out.

Possible source
-Open circuit in lead for reference supply to control module #3 or short–circuited to ground.
-Open circuit in power supply to hydraulic unit solenoid valves from combination relay (terminal 9).
-Open circuit in power supply to combination relay (terminal 4).
-Open circuit in signal lead (terminal 12 on combination relay) to combination relay main relay.
-Signal lead (terminal 12 on combination relay) to combination relay main relay, short–circuited to supply.
-Open circuit in power supply to combination relay main relay (terminal 3 on combination relay).
-Power supply to control module from combination relay (terminal 10), short–circuited to ground.
-Faulty combination relay.
-Faulty hydraulic unit.
-Contact resistance in terminals.

Anyone have a good idea where to start? The only things ABS related that I touched were the plugs on the hubs. The driver side one I removed when I took the struts out, the passenger one I left in. Any suggestions? This is really pissing me off. I just can't get away from something not being right on the car. <_<

 

If you clear it does it come right back on?

 

I'm going to clear it before I take it for a drive today to further investigate the clunk.

I found on the passenger side (also known as the Frankenstein abs sensor because the wires going to the sensor already had two repairs in it :/ ) was frayed in one spot where the wire was kinked. So I cut out the entire section ( from the nub where it mounts to the strut to the sensor) and put in new wires and taped it up real good. I'm pretty sure I have the wires in the correct spots on the plug, I looked at the driver side and just flipped them around since they're on the other side of the car. I'll clear it, drive it, and see if it comes back. Does polarity matter with these sensors?

 

I do not think it matters at all.

 

I went to clear the codes, And low and behold, there were more codes....a lot. This is what I got:

444, 122, 311, 312, 322, 212, 141, 214, 142.

And they came back. <_< ABS module? I have two extras? Not by my computer, so don't have the ability to research it at all.

 

Possibly the module. The older ones do have problems as well but I have not been able to fix them as of yet. Mine acts up like every 3 days. The light comes on while driving but goes off after I turn the car off.

 

I cleared the codes and went for a drive, mix of city and highways. But as soon as I started the car, the light came back. I'll check the codes again today to see what gets pulled up and clear them again.

I don't know if this makes a difference or not, but I installed new hubs this past weekend. However, I drove from my parents house to my house which is about an hour away, city and highway, and the lights never came on, so I'm going to assume it's not the hubs.

I think I am also going to cut the wires back a little further where I can get some fresher wires from where it was frayed, the wires where I spliced were pretty corroded, I should have gone further back in the harness. I am also going to pull both of the ABS sensors on the front wheels, clean them, and clean the plugs really good as well. I also have two spare ABS modules. Maybe I'll replace it right away just to eliminate that. It just seems odd that it would be throwing codes for both front wheels. :blink:

Does anyone know if the module is bad, will it throw a specific code just for the module, or if I get this cluster **** of codes, could that mean the module is bad?