Go Back   Volvo Forums - Volvo Enthusiasts Forum > Volvo Vehicles > Volvo 850
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?
Search

Welcome to Volvo Forums!
Welcome to Volvo Forums,

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to start new topics, reply to conversations, privately message other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, join Volvo Forums today!


Reply
 
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #31  
Old 07-27-2010, 10:11 AM
Junior Member
1991 Volvo 740
My Garage
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Hicksville, NY
Posts: 1
Default Bread wrapper tabs

This is the right fix...There is a jury-rig fix on another forum that advises gluing plastic bread wrapper tabs under the clutch pressure fingers...It has a lot of enthusiatic adherants because it avoids removing the compressor...It is a VERY dangerous fix, since the shims could get thrown out by centrifugal force and put someone's eye out...

Quote:
Originally Posted by tech View Post
Once compressor is off set it like the following pic and remove the 10mm screw in the middle of the pulley.
Click the image to open in full size.
Then carefully remove the outer part of the Clutch.(There is a special tool which I didn't have I used to screw drivers but be careful)
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Then either the shims will come out with the outer peice like mine did or they will be sitting on the shaft once the outer part is removed.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
If you look closely the washers/shims are different thicknesses. You will need to Measure the thickness and then find one a little thinner and reinstall and check the Gap between the outer and inner part of the clutch.
I will have to find out the exact specs but I believe it needs to be .016 Cannot be more than .020.
Use a fueller gauge to measure the gap.

Hopefully this helps.

If you have any qioestions feel free to ask.

Compressor Specs: Gap should be between .3MM(.012Inches) and .5MM(.020Inches)
.6mm(.024) should not fit in at all
Reply With Quote
  #32  
Old 07-27-2010, 10:06 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 4
Default

something I highly recommend, you can replace it on the car (without purging the AC system) if you work around the wheel well and radiator on the v70 from underneath, IF and its a big IF you can get the clutch off. The trick I found is the three empty holes on the clutch are threaded, I can't remember off hand its been a few months, but its a small metric size. You'll only have enough space to put one in at a time, then rotate the clutch to put the next one in, and get a few different lengths because if they are too long they hit the frame when you try to rotate the clutch, its silly tight working around it. but yeah this thread saved me a few hundred bucks and a very pissed wife (she doesn't do hot weather).
Reply With Quote
  #33  
Old 08-01-2010, 09:33 PM
Junior Member
1980 Volvo 244
My Garage
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Fayeteville, Ar.
Posts: 23
Default

Before you go to all this trouble, check voltage going to clutch. The only three 850's that I have seen with this problem 2 mine and third a friend. I solved with a relay wired into the clutch power wire. Seems that I found there was only 8.5-9.7 volts constant to clutch. $7.00 and ten minutes and never had another problem.
Reply With Quote
  #34  
Old 08-04-2010, 02:54 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 4
Default

Hello there. I saw your posting on this issue and became curious. Now I am NOT savvy with cars and stuff, although I am a handyman and have fixed various things in various cars before, but I don't know terms and part names like I would have to in order to be a "car repairman". All I do when I need to fix something is I use google + youtube and voila... I can get things done. I am a hands-on type of person.

I have a 2001 V70 and my a/c works at times and at times it just decides not to work. When it works it is always ice cold. When it doesn't, if I speed off real quick or hit a pot hole, it sometimes kicks it back on. Once in a very blue moon (I mean, verrryyyyyy blue moon) the whole panel turns off and stays off for a little while and when I turn the car off and leave it off for the night, the next morning the panel lights up just fine. I don't think I have a leak, nor it needs freon. The a/c is COLD! But for whatever reason, it decides to turn off and on whenever. It has a mind of its own. Now, please note it doesn't go off and on all the time while I'm driving. If I start the car and it is working, it works for quite a while, sometimes days. But if I start the car and it doesn't start, that's when the speeding off and pot hitting begins. I don't want to keep doing this because I am not an offensive driver nor I want to bend my wheels or anything worst, but when it's 110F outside, one desperately uses all tools to start the dang thing. Please help if you can and shed some light.
Reply With Quote
  #35  
Old 08-04-2010, 09:15 PM
tech's Avatar
Administrator
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Orlando, Florida
Posts: 36,443
Default

I will bet it is the clutch that needs to be reshimmed.
You can do yours pretty easy. Remove the cooling fan and unbolt the compressor and turn it up. Then you can get it apart.
__________________
1987 Ford mustang LX Coupe 5.0
1995 Yellow T5-RM running
1996 850 turbo
1994 N/A 5-speed wagon Purple (daughters)
Reply With Quote
  #36  
Old 08-23-2010, 10:27 AM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 26
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by metalman View Post
something I highly recommend, you can replace it on the car (without purging the AC system) if you work around the wheel well and radiator on the v70 from underneath, IF and its a big IF you can get the clutch off. The trick I found is the three empty holes on the clutch are threaded, I can't remember off hand its been a few months, but its a small metric size. You'll only have enough space to put one in at a time, then rotate the clutch to put the next one in, and get a few different lengths because if they are too long they hit the frame when you try to rotate the clutch, its silly tight working around it. but yeah this thread saved me a few hundred bucks and a very pissed wife (she doesn't do hot weather).
I just completed the air conditioner compressor clutch re-shim on my 2001 V70 after having fairly predictable hot weather crap outs of my a/c and a measured clutch gap of greater than .035. What a difference and what a cheap fix!

On the V70, there is no need to remove the compressor from the vehicle. To provide room to work, the lower black plastic air deflector/spoiler (or whatever this item is called) needs to be removed from behind the front bumper and I also removed the right front tire to gain access to the compressor via removal of the fender well fasteners and bending the plastic fender well out of the way.

Next, the four mounting bolts that hold the compressor to the engine block need to be removed. I was able to use a simple 3/8 inch drive ratchet and a little creativity to work around the compressor coolant lines. After the four bolts are out, the compressor can be moved forward with the rear end tipped up, allowing clutch access from between the radiator and the engine under-carriage. The center bolt needs to be removed at this point from the clutch assembly.

There are three threaded holes where one can try to use a harmonic balancer puller. Space is limited and it's a big pain in the rear to try to support the compressor while trying to run the puller without an extra pair of hands. The easier method was to insert three M5 bolts that are approximately 1.5 inches long into the threaded holes. I found these as a normal stocked item at my local Lowes. When they bottom out, begin gradually turning all three as evenly as possible (I did 180 degree tightening rotations at a time) until the clutch hub was loose enough to remove by hand. This provided even pressure to get the clutch hub off of the splined compressor shaft.

As described repeatedly, there were two shims present on my compressor. I removed the thicker one and re-installed the hub with the thin shim in place. As a precaution and for ease of use on later issues, I applied a thin film of anti-seize on the splined shaft before re-assembly. The measured gap on re-install was .014. Everything was re-installed and I went out for a test drive in 105 degree weather on both stop and go city traffic as well as some highway 75mph maintained speed. This was the first time since I purchased this used vehicle where I've had to turn down the a/c from high fan speed because I was too cold.

Awesome forum, awesome instruction to get me started, and awesome results!

Thank you tech for the inspiration and thank you metalman for the additional hints.
__________________
I am not helpless.
Reply With Quote
  #37  
Old 08-23-2010, 02:29 PM
boxpin's Avatar
Super Moderator
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Rocklin, Ca
Posts: 2,326
Default

Jerry, nice info.

p.s. You need a manicure
__________________

Built B5234T5, H-Beams, Wiseco, Shimmed and decked, N/A cams, Cyro'ed, 20G w/ARD Black tune at 22psi, 650cc inj, e85, R-Mani, Meth injected, 3" exhaust, catless, M56L, Quaife, Sachs 707 mated to a Lightened Flywheel, FMIC, 3" MAF w/3" intake, ARD pulley, Bilstein shocks, H&R springs, IPD sways, MSD and a crazy old man with a lead foot.


Lots of pwr, no traction 20G
13.8@103 Manual 18T
13.7@99 Automagic 18T
Reply With Quote
  #38  
Old 08-23-2010, 08:31 PM
tech's Avatar
Administrator
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Orlando, Florida
Posts: 36,443
Default

worldbound4now
You could have just pulled the cooling fan from infront of the radiator and then turned the compressor straight up and had more room to work.

But congrats on the good job!!!
__________________
1987 Ford mustang LX Coupe 5.0
1995 Yellow T5-RM running
1996 850 turbo
1994 N/A 5-speed wagon Purple (daughters)
Reply With Quote
  #39  
Old 11-30-2010, 08:11 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 1
Default

I have a 2001 S80 with the same issue, cold for 20 mins or so then hot. The clutch gap is a shade over 0.8mm so I assume I need to take out or replace a shim or two. The question is, can this be done on the S80 without taking the compressor off the vehicle, or at least without disconnecting to avoid regassing.

Thanks in advance
Reply With Quote
  #40  
Old 11-30-2010, 11:22 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 4
Default

Honestly, I haven't worked on an S80, so I couldn't say for sure. However, I have never worked on a car that required you to crack the AC system to replace the pulley or clutch, although some times thats the easiest way, its never mandatory. For example. on my v70t5, I had to pull a radiator hose, part of the front air dam, of course take off the belt, remove all the mounting bolts for the compressor, then carefully rotate the compressor so that the face of it was tilted up, then pull the front right tire so that I could get to the compressor face through the wheel well opening. loosen the bolt for the clutch, and at that point, you can use some metric bolts, really small, I think like an m4 or 6, you'll see three threaded holes in the clutch, use the bolts to press the clutch off. be careful, the threads aren't deep and if you strip them with the wrong bolt size, I don't know how you would get the clutch off, anyway, when the clutch pops off the washers will fall out. measure the washer/shims, they are different thicknesses, and pull the right ones to put the clutch back into the tight side of spec. its a free fix, other than possibly buying the weirdo metric bolts and replacing coolant, but be warned my first time getting to the AC compressor was several hours, although after having done it a couple times, I could probably do it in 20 minutes now. Most of the volvo clutches seem to have enough meat for 3 reshims, which by my math works out to about 600,000 miles. It will also last longer if you keep the fan in the vehicle on high but set the actual temprature warmer so the compressor doesn't cycle as frequently. My wife liked a just barely moving whiff of arctic air, so the compressor was constantly going on and off, I told her if she smoked the clutch again she could just roll the windows down. she goes easy on the AC now.
Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2010, 11:22 PM
 
 
 
Reply

Tags
240, 760, 850, ac, bread, clip, clips, clutch, compressor, ford, gap, remove, reshimming, shims, spect, volvo


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Advertising
Featured Sponsors
Vendor Directory
Our Sponsors

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:50 PM.
© Internet Brands, Inc.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
SEO by vBSEO ©2010, Crawlability, Inc.

This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.
Secure Backup