The same thing has been happening to my 2004.5 s40 t5. It starts out cold then gradually gets warmer. I took it to christian brothers, they said I needed a whole new compressor and brought the total out to $1200. I declined the offer, I want to try to see if I can do anything else. Basically I don't want to pay $1200

 

Hello Anthony, The exact same thing happened to two of my volvos. I have a 97 volvo 960 and a a 2005 volvo s80. Two years ago I read the post regarding this problem and took one of my cars to a shop in Orlando, after I had been told that I needed a new compressor by a local dealer. The tech told me that he does one or two a week and removed one of the shims in the clutch assembly on my 05 S80 and it has worked fine ever since (1 1/2 years). He charged me 225.00. I saw how easy it was and decided to try and do it myself on my 1997 volvo. It was a little difficult getting the clutch off but I followed the directions from this post and the 960 has been working perfectly since. Caution: When removing the clutch, the shims may fall out and roll never to be found again. There were three in mine and I removed one and lost one. Again it works great. If you are in Florida the shop I took my first volvo to was in Maitland and they work on volvos and mini cooper. They were fantastic.

 

How do you check the voltage ?

My ac used to work randomly, but now its not working at all anymore. I tried putting something between to measure the gap and its maybe 1mm. Also tried what another member here said by pushing it with a broom stick, but it that won't help either so I guess the gap is way to big.

 

How do you get to the compressor on a 2006 V50? Are there any videos available?

 

have the compressor still in the car and have removed the 10 mm screw in the center, pulling the center of the clutch out seems frozen on? does the pullies remain and just the fly on the outerside come off? have not removed the belts either would the hole assembly come out? any suggestions do not want to bend that outer piece?

 

Wondering if anyone has tried to do this by dropping the subframe? Losen the back subframe bolts and removed the front supported by a jack. Just wondering is the A/C clutch would be accessible then.

 

I took out the clutch (actually only the plate) on a T5. It worked without losening the subframe but it was a killer every mm counts. What I did was to unscrew the engine from the pad on the right side and "push" a little the motor back.
There are some guys which made a special tool for removing the plate however I think that only on the TDI (diesel) you have enough clearance to use it.

 

Just shimmed the compressor on a 2002 V40. Butt simple. Pull the RF wheel, pull the plastic out of the fender well and thecompressor is right there. You’re lifewill be a bit easier if you pull that 10mm bolt that holds the Freon line tothe frame right in front of the AC Clutch.

Then you’ll need 3 M5 .80 pitch bolts. Screw two of them into the threaded holes inthe clutch so you can hold it with a screw driver while you remove the 10mmbolt in the compressor clutch. Afterthat’s out, put the third M5 bolt in the third hole, then start cranking downthe three M5’s, moving around the clutch. That will pull the clutch right off the compressor. On mine, three shims were inside theclutch. Remove some, all of them,whatever it takes to get between .2mm and .5mm.

Assembly is reverse.

 

Sorry if this is too late to be any help, but... You just want to remove the clutch (front) plate. Not sure on your model, but on mine there are three threaded (5mm IIRC) holes that you can carefully, evenly, and gradually screw bolts into to force the plate off of the splined thing in the middle.

Many auto parts stores also have loan-a-tool programs for A/C clutch removal tools, but I'm not sure if they typically work with volvos.

 

I would think not. I just got lucky and found some screws that fit the puller holes.

I just did this also, with the compressor on the car (94 turbo). I took the compressor loose and let it dangle from the hoses, but getting the 4 compressor mount bolts out and back in was pretty horrendous. Probably much easier to do it another way. I would have done it with the compressor in place if I had just the right tool to get the center bolt loose. I didn't have anything that could fit in there and actually get it.

 

Did this fix and worked awesome for 4 years. Now I am having problems only when car is stopped. It blows cold when driving. I checked and fan is running. Also, it sounds like it is trying to stall car when compressor kicks on at idle. Any ideas.

 

I have the clutch plate off and need to replace the bearing. How does the clutch assembly come off? Do you need a puller to take off the pulley

 

This is a super old post, but could you tell me what you used? The picture is no longer available and I'm trying to get this thing off my compressor!

 

hey man, how did you end up getting it off? I can't get mine off for the life of me! and the picture tech admin replied to you with is no longer available. Please help!

 

See below.

 

I took a rear disc pad and drill 3 holes in it and used it as a puller.

 

Awesome, worked perfectly, thank you!

 

Reviving this thread to find out if anyone can give me info on the 'bread clip' fix for intermittent A/C. What I want to know is the exact width of the slot required in the clip because I want to make bread clip style shims from aluminum or brass. In other words what is the diameter of the pin/shaft around which the clip will sit?

 

It all depends on the wear of the damper your sliding through. Its rubber so it has some give and I dont think anyone measured their bread clips. I have used C-clips and tip ties, both have lasted to this day and its been years.

 

Thanks for the reply! However I don't know what "tip ties" are, and what sort of c-clips? I would like to try them. Thanks!