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  #1  
Old 02-16-2011, 03:23 PM
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Default car shakes really bad while in idling or park

i just got the car a few months ago and been trying to get the car repaired before i get it registered and sell my old car. I just got the iac replaced and a tuneup which was supposed to take care of the shaking while idling problem but it improved it but it hasnt completely gone away. i was wondering if anyone knows what else could be causing it to do this after a iac replacement and tuneup. thanks for the help in advance.
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  #2  
Old 02-16-2011, 06:07 PM
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How are your engine mounts? If you grab the engine while it is cold and shake it, does it move a lot?
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  #3  
Old 02-16-2011, 11:59 PM
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the engine is a rebuilt one so maybe they didn't screw everything on right but when i get a chance tommorow i will check this out. how would i know which part of it to replace and how much you think it will cost for parts and labor?
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Old 02-17-2011, 04:01 AM
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You may want to specify the model year, as well as the type of engine (turbo/non-turbo). Different model years seem to use different parts.

http://auto-parts.fcpgroton.com/engine-mount--model-850

Total cost of parts would be around $250-$300, plus labour. Yes, this is a nightmare unless you can do the job by yourself.

Idle speed being lower than normal (normal idle speed for 850 should be 850RPM give or take 50RPM, except in winter when the fast idle function kicks in for the first few minutes) is usually the most common cause of engine shake. When you had the tune-up, did the shop use genuine OEM parts? Volvos don't like being treated with non-OEM parts.

If the engine mounts are ok, I would like to know exactly what items have been replaced during the tune-up.


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  #5  
Old 02-17-2011, 09:02 AM
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Did you replace the wires ? Are they on the correct cylinders same with distributor cap ? Did they make a go contact so they are not arc in out?
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  #6  
Old 02-17-2011, 05:19 PM
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sorry for the lack information but its 93 volvo 850 glt
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  #7  
Old 02-17-2011, 05:33 PM
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Agree it does sound like the engine mounts.
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  #8  
Old 02-18-2011, 05:44 AM
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I hate it when it comes to the engine mounts. The average life of rubber is approx 5 years. See attached for a nightmare, different year/models use different types of mounts.


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Attached Images
File Type: jpg 850 LowerMounts.jpg (54.4 KB, 31 views)
File Type: jpg 850 Upper Engine Mount.jpg (88.2 KB, 28 views)
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  #9  
Old 02-18-2011, 11:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JPN View Post
different year/models use different types of mounts.
Are those pics for the 93 GLT and/or others?
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Old 02-18-2011, 11:42 AM
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According to several sources, the 5 cylinder motor is one of the smoothest ever made. That being said, I think the car would be pretty smooth with all the motor mounts missing, if the motor wasn't missing. I think it is either missing or has a bad piston or something. Shaking and vibrating is two different things. After checking plugs, wires, etc., check compression.

On the other note, bad mounts, is there a easy way to check the "uncommon mounts"? I have new trans mount, front (right) mount, and upper torque, how do I check the others?
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  #11  
Old 02-18-2011, 11:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vjaneczko View Post
Are those pics for the 93 GLT and/or others?
You should be able to find what you need at:
http://www.fcpgroton.com/category-ex...136/by_year/43

FCP Groton is a great OEM vendor located in Groton, CT. I've used them several times when I lived in Chicago and was extremely satisfied with them. Now they are the official sponsor to our forum. Their price is reasonable (try comparing with the dealer's tag) and shipping is fast.

If still unsure, call them and ask for what you need. You probably will not have to replace all mounts; only the ones that are visibly failed.

The 5-cyl Volvo motors should be as quiet & smooth as a Lexus, if maintained & well taken care of. When I had the 850, sometimes I had to look at the tach to make sure the motor was running.


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Last edited by JPN; 02-18-2011 at 11:13 PM. Reason: Just felt like it
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  #12  
Old 02-21-2011, 04:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JPN View Post
You may want to specify the model year, as well as the type of engine (turbo/non-turbo). Different model years seem to use different parts.

http://auto-parts.fcpgroton.com/engine-mount--model-850

Total cost of parts would be around $250-$300, plus labour. Yes, this is a nightmare unless you can do the job by yourself.

Idle speed being lower than normal (normal idle speed for 850 should be 850RPM give or take 50RPM, except in winter when the fast idle function kicks in for the first few minutes) is usually the most common cause of engine shake. When you had the tune-up, did the shop use genuine OEM parts? Volvos don't like being treated with non-OEM parts.

If the engine mounts are ok, I would like to know exactly what items have been replaced during the tune-up.


JPN
i got the new oem spark plugs and wires done with the tune up but the iac replaced with a used one from ebay. when i checked as far as i can see the motor mounts are good to go. the engine shakes on the side that the belts are spinning. My battery keeps dying also which is also making it hard to get work done on the car plus i havent gotten it registered yet since i wanna get it fixed all the way before i register it and sell my old lady's car since the 93 850 glt is hers.

i dont know what's causing it to idle real high in park or behind someone but i noticed it today after i got the battery charged that it went from 1ish to like 3 a few times and then back to normal just really shakey please help if anyone can since i dont know a reliable mechanic vovlo mechanic that will come over to fix it at the moment
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Old 02-22-2011, 05:07 AM
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Besides the idle problem, the side engine mount may need replacement:

FCP Groton:
http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exe...ategory_id/109

eEuro:
http://www.eeuroparts.com/Main/PartD...px?id=9135178A

I don't know who the OEM was, but there seems no OEM side mount available.

Your engine is having trouble in the Electronic Engine Control. Since your 850 is 1993 model, you can manually access the EEC and retrieve fault codes. Take notes on the fault codes, reset the EEC and see if the same code(s) comes back. See attached. I have a bad feeling about that used IACV.

I would also like to know the age & brand of the battery. If more than 3-4 years old, change it. The maximum life of a battery is about 5 years with care (maint-free units seem to last as long as 8 years). There are 3 reasons for your battery to keep dying:

1. The battery can no longer hold charge (change it)
2. The alternator is reaching its service life (change it with a rebuilt Bosch)
3. There is (are) a parasitic draw somewhere (mine had it with the glove box light being on even with the lid closed)

If it turns out that the battery is shot, I would go with The Interstate Batteries for quality & their strong reputation + free jump start services.

Let us know if you need further assistance as to pulling codes from the EEC.


JPN
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 850 eng compt ECU.jpg (80.7 KB, 17 views)
File Type: jpg 850 Code-1.jpg (92.0 KB, 19 views)
File Type: jpg 850 Code-2.jpg (95.8 KB, 14 views)
File Type: jpg 850 Code-3.jpg (94.5 KB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg 850 Code-4.jpg (93.0 KB, 14 views)
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  #14  
Old 02-22-2011, 05:08 AM
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And sometimes the EEC does not pick up fault from certain sensors; see attached.


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File Type: jpg 850 NA Driveability (2).jpg (94.5 KB, 14 views)
File Type: jpg 850 NA Driveability (3).jpg (92.7 KB, 14 views)
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Old 02-22-2011, 05:08 AM
 
 
 
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850, 94, bad, battery, box, car, dying, engine, glove, idle, idling, light, park, shakes, shaking, shudders, tune, vibrates, volvo


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