Problem started last week. Thought battery was low, put charger on for about 4 hours. Engine turned over faster, still would not start. Rolled down hill to my driveway to let the bitch die. It sat about 3 days.

Put charger on again, it was taking 8-10 amps on charger. Came out a few hours later, and it started. Bought new battery, fired right up. 3 days later engine turn over, but won't start. Getting about 12.8 volts when tested with meter. I know it must be gas related.

Note: Plugs have less than 6k, as do wires and distributors. Garage replaced 2 years ago. O2 sensors replaced in October. Filled take with 93 octane, after replacing battery. 4 gallons used since then. Car left for dead on side of road.

Question: If I disconnect battery, will this reset ECU, so I can get it home, or to mechanic? Thanks

 

If you disconnect the battery the ECM will lose it's memory if that's what you mean by "reset" ?? If your vehicle is having a problem starting taking the battery cable off most likely won't make any difference on if it will start up. If you are having a "fuel" problem taking the battery cable off wouldn't do anything to cure or correct it.

When it wouldn't start but it would crank over did you check to see if you had spark at all?

Have you checked to see if you have any fuel pressure at the fuel rail or if you can hear the fuel pump prime when you first turn the key on ??

 

Just thought by re-setting memory in ECU, it might "magicaly" start fuel pump relay or pressure regulator. I read something in the Haynes manual about "limp home mode",,,and I know I am reaching here, my skills are weak in the mechanical area. I will give it a look this morning, or give it a listen in regards to the fuel pump primeing. Thanks.

 

Holy missing the obvious one here. You fully charged the battery, it started. Bought a new battery, it started, but died later.....have you tested the alternator? Fully charge the battery, use a multimeter to test the voltage, should be around 12-12.5. Start the car and with the car running, use the multimeter again to test the voltage, it should be reading ~14 volts, if it's not, you need a new alternator.

If it's not the alternator, you need three things for it to start. Fuel, spark, and compression. Test the fuel rail, do you have pressure at the fuel rail? Put the key in the on position, can you hear the fuel pump priming?

If you have fuel, pull out one of the spark plugs and hold it to a grounding surface and have someone crank the car, if you're getting spark, then you can move on.

Chances are you still have compression because if you're timing belt broke, well, you would know.

After that, you can rule out the CPS because the car started. If you're getting spark you can rule out the crank position sensor. There's a million things it could be, best would be to start by checking to make sure you're alternator is working, extremely easy test.

 

Most common erratic starting/running problems with these cars are fuel pump related. Usually the fuel pump relay. They don't need to be reset, the problem is physical, broken/cracked solider. Pull the fuel pump relay and put it back in. Get a replacement or spare. Like Kiss said, do you hear the fuel pump? When it does NOT start, you should hear the pump whine for about 3 seconds after you let the key go.

 

Thanks for the replies everyone. Was getting 13.89v when car was running, replaced battery because it was 3 years old. Just a little insurance for the Winter months. Will replace fuel pump relay, check fuel pump. Will let you know. Thanks again.