Volvo 850 Made from 1993 to 1997, this Volvo line was available in both a wagon and a sedan, both with were graced with several trim levels.

Injectors not working on swapped engine

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Old Dec 26, 2011 | 08:42 PM
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I am Phil's Avatar
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Default Injectors not working on swapped engine

95 850 With a 93 motor. Well got it (the engine) all mostly hooked up....the only things not hooked up are the radiator,some vacuum lines and A/C stuff. Turns over fine and runs on either but does not keep running. There is pressure on the fuel rail and its the rail and injectors off the junked motor so it did work. Cam shaft sensor was swapped as was the sensor on the bottom off the throttle body(what does that do?? the sensor??) The junk motor ran so all the parts should be functioning... as all extior parts were swapped onto the 93 engine from the 95 motor. I did not check the fuses..... oops i will do that 1st thing in the morning. if not fuses then what should i start looking for?? Thanks in advance ZR
 
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Old Dec 27, 2011 | 04:46 PM
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If the vacuum lines aren't hooked up that could cause an issue with fuel delivery I would think....but you said you had pressure??
 

Last edited by Clint Russell; Dec 27, 2011 at 04:50 PM.
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Old Dec 27, 2011 | 08:45 PM
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Well seems the radiator had to be hooked up....... for the injectors to work. Huh learn something every day!!! Got it running pretty good and now i have to deal with the heater core as it seems to leak
 
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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by I am Phil
Well seems the radiator had to be hooked up....... for the injectors to work. Huh learn something every day!!! Got it running pretty good and now i have to deal with the heater core as it seems to leak
Wow, that is strange. Glad you got it figured out. Getting ready to switch out the motor on my 94 850. I have a parts car 94 also but it is actually slightly different. IT wasn't too bad pulling the first one because I could just cut wires and such. Did you have to remove the exhaust manifold to get to some of the wiring on the front side?
 
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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Clint Russell
Did you have to remove the exhaust manifold to get to some of the wiring on the front side?
Wait, wut? You mean the intake manifold? Yes, you have to remove the intake manifold to remove an engine. There are the starter wires, knock sensors, and the harness runs behind the bracket on the starter along the block. Also plugs/connectors going both to the compressor and alternator.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2011 | 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by gilber33
Wait, wut? You mean the intake manifold? Yes, you have to remove the intake manifold to remove an engine. There are the starter wires, knock sensors, and the harness runs behind the bracket on the starter along the block. Also plugs/connectors going both to the compressor and alternator.
Yes, that's what I meant but not what I said for some reason. Thanks
 
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Old Dec 31, 2011 | 11:30 AM
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I didnt take the intake off but i did take out the radiator. That way i just unhooked everything the way it should be. however the wires going to the pvc system(i think) were too hard to get at so I cut and spliced them. I had a lift and a fork lift to use so that made it a lot easier to do. Of course i am now having trouble getting it to start....after it ran great for a while... but thats a different thread. It took me 3 days to do the swap (about 24hrs) but i had no clue what i was doing and i dropped it by myself. So if you have someone to help you get them!!! it goes a ton faster Took 3 or 4hrs to get it back in with help. And also.. hook everything back up...even the stuff that shoulnt matter. I would have saved 2hrs had i just done everything right away. The reason i did not was i never heard the engine run sooo if it did not run I wanted to get it back out quick.....waste off time.... o well now i know lol good luck with yours ZR
 
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