V40 S40 Brake Pads and Rotors DIY?
#1
04-29-2009, 10:16 AM
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V40 S40 Brake Pads and Rotors DIY?
I need to change the front brakes pads and rotors on my '01 V40, is there a DIY for this anywhere? I searched and didn't find anything. Or is there an online manual I should know about? It's my first brake/rotor change, any tricks or special tools I'll need like bleeders (I also read somewhere I'll need a special tool to remove the calipers?) I'll post a DIY if there isn't one and I end up doing it.
thanks!
thanks!
#2
05-21-2009, 04:05 PM
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Doing a brake job on the Volvo V40 is about as easy a job as you will ever find. If its not too late and you found this out already, I hope this helps you or anyone else.
Tools required to make the job easy:
12mm Box wrench
12mm socket with matching ratchet
15mm Box wrench
15mm socket with matching ratchet
Hammer
C-Clamp
Brake Cleaner
Disc Brake quiet/lube
1) Jack up car.
2) Remove lug nuts (probably a 4 lug) and wheels from car.
3) On the back side of the caliper there are 2 bolts. If I remember correctly, they are 12mm bolts. Remember the old rule "righty tighty lefty loosey" but also notice that these bolts are pointed towards you. Put a box wrench (NOT open ended crescent wrench!) on the bolt and hit the wrench with a hammer to crack them loose. (I live in Wisconsin and often times even a small amount of rust can make these bolts stick. You may be able to crack the bolts without hammer but it sure makes the job easier)
4) Pull those 2 bolts (technically they are also pins as you will see when they slide out and have some grease on them). At this point, the entire caliper and pads should just come off. You may have to push and pry a small bit or tap it GENTLY with the hammer. The caliper can just hang there by the hose.
5) Now take the 15mm box wrench and place it on the 2 bolts that hold the caliper bracket on the backside of the rotor. Same drill as above but you can be slightly more violent. The bracket should just fall off once those bolts are removed.
6) Since you are likely disposing of these rotors, use the hammer and tap the backside of the rotors at different points to pull it off of the studs. You are now about halfway done with your brake job!
7) Open the hood and slightly crack open the brake fluid reservior just so it can breathe. Take the C-Clamp and expand it so the thread and shoe on the end of the thread fit inside of the circular "cup" in the caliper. Slowly twist the C-Clamp so that it pushes this cup back into the caliper. Once it stops, just remove the C-Clamp. Doing this pushes some of the hydraulic brake fluid back into the reservior. Doing it slowly will prevent it from splashing out and over the firewall. (Brake fluid can damage paint!)
8) Spread/spray/smear disc brake quiet goo on the backside of the brake pad. It doesn't and shouldn't be caked on thick. Use the brake cleaner to spray down the caliper and wheel bearing hub. Also spray/wipe down the NEW rotor because it likely has oil all over it and oil on brake pads is not good.
9) Slide new rotor on wheel studs.
10) Bolt on caliper bracket again. Make sure its bolted on as tight as you can make it. Make sure by tapping on the wrench with a hammer again.
11) Place the brake pads on each side of the rotor and simply set it in the bracket. You will see that they are designed to fit right in place.
12) This is the trickiest part of the entire job: Putting the caliper back on with the new pads in place. You might notice that on the most outer (tangent?) arc of the brake pad is a spring-like metal wire that moves back and forth. The end of each wire simply pushes on a ridge of the inside of the caliper. You DO NOT bend them into that slit/hole but you should see them through the slit/hole once the caliper is on. Just make sure they don't pop through that slit. Since these are new pads and a new rotor, it will all fit together VERY snug. You may have to tap on the caliper with a hammer again to get it into place. Remember the first 2 bolts you pulled out slide into a what looks like a rubber boot with spring action? Try to smoothly line them back up and slide the bolts back into them. Once both bolts are slide into place, tighten back up and tap wrench with a hammer to ensure its all tight. Replace wheel and lug nuts and you are done.
Of course you now have to do the other side. I've done have a bazillian brake jobs on different cars and this one took me about 10-15 minutes on each side. Just remember to tighten up the brake fluid reservior when done. Before leaving your parking spot, pump your brakes a few times to re-adjust the caliper. After that you should be good to go.
Tools required to make the job easy:
12mm Box wrench
12mm socket with matching ratchet
15mm Box wrench
15mm socket with matching ratchet
Hammer
C-Clamp
Brake Cleaner
Disc Brake quiet/lube
1) Jack up car.
2) Remove lug nuts (probably a 4 lug) and wheels from car.
3) On the back side of the caliper there are 2 bolts. If I remember correctly, they are 12mm bolts. Remember the old rule "righty tighty lefty loosey" but also notice that these bolts are pointed towards you. Put a box wrench (NOT open ended crescent wrench!) on the bolt and hit the wrench with a hammer to crack them loose. (I live in Wisconsin and often times even a small amount of rust can make these bolts stick. You may be able to crack the bolts without hammer but it sure makes the job easier)
4) Pull those 2 bolts (technically they are also pins as you will see when they slide out and have some grease on them). At this point, the entire caliper and pads should just come off. You may have to push and pry a small bit or tap it GENTLY with the hammer. The caliper can just hang there by the hose.
5) Now take the 15mm box wrench and place it on the 2 bolts that hold the caliper bracket on the backside of the rotor. Same drill as above but you can be slightly more violent. The bracket should just fall off once those bolts are removed.
6) Since you are likely disposing of these rotors, use the hammer and tap the backside of the rotors at different points to pull it off of the studs. You are now about halfway done with your brake job!
7) Open the hood and slightly crack open the brake fluid reservior just so it can breathe. Take the C-Clamp and expand it so the thread and shoe on the end of the thread fit inside of the circular "cup" in the caliper. Slowly twist the C-Clamp so that it pushes this cup back into the caliper. Once it stops, just remove the C-Clamp. Doing this pushes some of the hydraulic brake fluid back into the reservior. Doing it slowly will prevent it from splashing out and over the firewall. (Brake fluid can damage paint!)
8) Spread/spray/smear disc brake quiet goo on the backside of the brake pad. It doesn't and shouldn't be caked on thick. Use the brake cleaner to spray down the caliper and wheel bearing hub. Also spray/wipe down the NEW rotor because it likely has oil all over it and oil on brake pads is not good.
9) Slide new rotor on wheel studs.
10) Bolt on caliper bracket again. Make sure its bolted on as tight as you can make it. Make sure by tapping on the wrench with a hammer again.
11) Place the brake pads on each side of the rotor and simply set it in the bracket. You will see that they are designed to fit right in place.
12) This is the trickiest part of the entire job: Putting the caliper back on with the new pads in place. You might notice that on the most outer (tangent?) arc of the brake pad is a spring-like metal wire that moves back and forth. The end of each wire simply pushes on a ridge of the inside of the caliper. You DO NOT bend them into that slit/hole but you should see them through the slit/hole once the caliper is on. Just make sure they don't pop through that slit. Since these are new pads and a new rotor, it will all fit together VERY snug. You may have to tap on the caliper with a hammer again to get it into place. Remember the first 2 bolts you pulled out slide into a what looks like a rubber boot with spring action? Try to smoothly line them back up and slide the bolts back into them. Once both bolts are slide into place, tighten back up and tap wrench with a hammer to ensure its all tight. Replace wheel and lug nuts and you are done.
Of course you now have to do the other side. I've done have a bazillian brake jobs on different cars and this one took me about 10-15 minutes on each side. Just remember to tighten up the brake fluid reservior when done. Before leaving your parking spot, pump your brakes a few times to re-adjust the caliper. After that you should be good to go.
#3
05-23-2009, 03:59 AM
Doing a brake job on the Volvo V40 is about as easy a job as you will ever find. If its not too late and you found this out already, I hope this helps you or anyone else.
Tools required to make the job easy:
12mm Box wrench
12mm socket with matching ratchet
15mm Box wrench
15mm socket with matching ratchet
Hammer
C-Clamp
Brake Cleaner
Disc Brake quiet/lube
1) Jack up car.
2) Remove lug nuts (probably a 4 lug) and wheels from car.
3) On the back side of the caliper there are 2 bolts. If I remember correctly, they are 12mm bolts. Remember the old rule "righty tighty lefty loosey" but also notice that these bolts are pointed towards you. Put a box wrench (NOT open ended crescent wrench!) on the bolt and hit the wrench with a hammer to crack them loose. (I live in Wisconsin and often times even a small amount of rust can make these bolts stick. You may be able to crack the bolts without hammer but it sure makes the job easier)
4) Pull those 2 bolts (technically they are also pins as you will see when they slide out and have some grease on them). At this point, the entire caliper and pads should just come off. You may have to push and pry a small bit or tap it GENTLY with the hammer. The caliper can just hang there by the hose.
5) Now take the 15mm box wrench and place it on the 2 bolts that hold the caliper bracket on the backside of the rotor. Same drill as above but you can be slightly more violent. The bracket should just fall off once those bolts are removed.
6) Since you are likely disposing of these rotors, use the hammer and tap the backside of the rotors at different points to pull it off of the studs. You are now about halfway done with your brake job!
7) Open the hood and slightly crack open the brake fluid reservior just so it can breathe. Take the C-Clamp and expand it so the thread and shoe on the end of the thread fit inside of the circular "cup" in the caliper. Slowly twist the C-Clamp so that it pushes this cup back into the caliper. Once it stops, just remove the C-Clamp. Doing this pushes some of the hydraulic brake fluid back into the reservior. Doing it slowly will prevent it from splashing out and over the firewall. (Brake fluid can damage paint!)
8) Spread/spray/smear disc brake quiet goo on the backside of the brake pad. It doesn't and shouldn't be caked on thick. Use the brake cleaner to spray down the caliper and wheel bearing hub. Also spray/wipe down the NEW rotor because it likely has oil all over it and oil on brake pads is not good.
9) Slide new rotor on wheel studs.
10) Bolt on caliper bracket again. Make sure its bolted on as tight as you can make it. Make sure by tapping on the wrench with a hammer again.
11) Place the brake pads on each side of the rotor and simply set it in the bracket. You will see that they are designed to fit right in place.
12) This is the trickiest part of the entire job: Putting the caliper back on with the new pads in place. You might notice that on the most outer (tangent?) arc of the brake pad is a spring-like metal wire that moves back and forth. The end of each wire simply pushes on a ridge of the inside of the caliper. You DO NOT bend them into that slit/hole but you should see them through the slit/hole once the caliper is on. Just make sure they don't pop through that slit. Since these are new pads and a new rotor, it will all fit together VERY snug. You may have to tap on the caliper with a hammer again to get it into place. Remember the first 2 bolts you pulled out slide into a what looks like a rubber boot with spring action? Try to smoothly line them back up and slide the bolts back into them. Once both bolts are slide into place, tighten back up and tap wrench with a hammer to ensure its all tight. Replace wheel and lug nuts and you are done.
Of course you now have to do the other side. I've done have a bazillian brake jobs on different cars and this one took me about 10-15 minutes on each side. Just remember to tighten up the brake fluid reservior when done. Before leaving your parking spot, pump your brakes a few times to re-adjust the caliper. After that you should be good to go.
Tools required to make the job easy:
12mm Box wrench
12mm socket with matching ratchet
15mm Box wrench
15mm socket with matching ratchet
Hammer
C-Clamp
Brake Cleaner
Disc Brake quiet/lube
1) Jack up car.
2) Remove lug nuts (probably a 4 lug) and wheels from car.
3) On the back side of the caliper there are 2 bolts. If I remember correctly, they are 12mm bolts. Remember the old rule "righty tighty lefty loosey" but also notice that these bolts are pointed towards you. Put a box wrench (NOT open ended crescent wrench!) on the bolt and hit the wrench with a hammer to crack them loose. (I live in Wisconsin and often times even a small amount of rust can make these bolts stick. You may be able to crack the bolts without hammer but it sure makes the job easier)
4) Pull those 2 bolts (technically they are also pins as you will see when they slide out and have some grease on them). At this point, the entire caliper and pads should just come off. You may have to push and pry a small bit or tap it GENTLY with the hammer. The caliper can just hang there by the hose.
5) Now take the 15mm box wrench and place it on the 2 bolts that hold the caliper bracket on the backside of the rotor. Same drill as above but you can be slightly more violent. The bracket should just fall off once those bolts are removed.
6) Since you are likely disposing of these rotors, use the hammer and tap the backside of the rotors at different points to pull it off of the studs. You are now about halfway done with your brake job!
7) Open the hood and slightly crack open the brake fluid reservior just so it can breathe. Take the C-Clamp and expand it so the thread and shoe on the end of the thread fit inside of the circular "cup" in the caliper. Slowly twist the C-Clamp so that it pushes this cup back into the caliper. Once it stops, just remove the C-Clamp. Doing this pushes some of the hydraulic brake fluid back into the reservior. Doing it slowly will prevent it from splashing out and over the firewall. (Brake fluid can damage paint!)
8) Spread/spray/smear disc brake quiet goo on the backside of the brake pad. It doesn't and shouldn't be caked on thick. Use the brake cleaner to spray down the caliper and wheel bearing hub. Also spray/wipe down the NEW rotor because it likely has oil all over it and oil on brake pads is not good.
9) Slide new rotor on wheel studs.
10) Bolt on caliper bracket again. Make sure its bolted on as tight as you can make it. Make sure by tapping on the wrench with a hammer again.
11) Place the brake pads on each side of the rotor and simply set it in the bracket. You will see that they are designed to fit right in place.
12) This is the trickiest part of the entire job: Putting the caliper back on with the new pads in place. You might notice that on the most outer (tangent?) arc of the brake pad is a spring-like metal wire that moves back and forth. The end of each wire simply pushes on a ridge of the inside of the caliper. You DO NOT bend them into that slit/hole but you should see them through the slit/hole once the caliper is on. Just make sure they don't pop through that slit. Since these are new pads and a new rotor, it will all fit together VERY snug. You may have to tap on the caliper with a hammer again to get it into place. Remember the first 2 bolts you pulled out slide into a what looks like a rubber boot with spring action? Try to smoothly line them back up and slide the bolts back into them. Once both bolts are slide into place, tighten back up and tap wrench with a hammer to ensure its all tight. Replace wheel and lug nuts and you are done.
Of course you now have to do the other side. I've done have a bazillian brake jobs on different cars and this one took me about 10-15 minutes on each side. Just remember to tighten up the brake fluid reservior when done. Before leaving your parking spot, pump your brakes a few times to re-adjust the caliper. After that you should be good to go.
#4
06-20-2009, 10:52 AM
#5
06-21-2009, 06:52 PM
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#6
06-22-2009, 02:35 PM
#7
09-24-2010, 06:33 AM
Hi,
I know this is an old post but I was hoping someone might be able to help me.
Having read John81's great post about how to change disk and brake pads on a Volvo v/s40 I decided to give it ago myself. However, I have encountered a problem while trying to remove the brake disc.
The two bolts which are located at the front of the caliper are almost rusted away. I believe I can remove these bolts myself but want to ensure I have suitable replacements before I start work. The two rusted bolts are on the front of caliper (the side which faces towards the front of car). One is located at the top of the caliper and the second is at the bottom. The bolt heads face away from road side towards engine.
I talked to the Volvo main dealer this morning and now I’m confused. They said there were two types of bolts in the caliper. One set hold the caliper together and should never need to be replaced. The second set are used to keep the caliper closed and used to contain brake pads. He said these are the bolts which should be changed whenever the disks are changed. He also said these bolts are nearly always supplied with the new brake pads. I have opened up the new box of brake pads (Textar) and the two bolts don’t look anything like the two rusted bolts which are on the front side of the caliper. The bolts in the box appear to be much bigger and chunkier. The rusted bolts on the caliper are thinner and I suspect they go all the way through the caliper which means they are long.
Any ideas?
I know this is an old post but I was hoping someone might be able to help me.
Having read John81's great post about how to change disk and brake pads on a Volvo v/s40 I decided to give it ago myself. However, I have encountered a problem while trying to remove the brake disc.
The two bolts which are located at the front of the caliper are almost rusted away. I believe I can remove these bolts myself but want to ensure I have suitable replacements before I start work. The two rusted bolts are on the front of caliper (the side which faces towards the front of car). One is located at the top of the caliper and the second is at the bottom. The bolt heads face away from road side towards engine.
I talked to the Volvo main dealer this morning and now I’m confused. They said there were two types of bolts in the caliper. One set hold the caliper together and should never need to be replaced. The second set are used to keep the caliper closed and used to contain brake pads. He said these are the bolts which should be changed whenever the disks are changed. He also said these bolts are nearly always supplied with the new brake pads. I have opened up the new box of brake pads (Textar) and the two bolts don’t look anything like the two rusted bolts which are on the front side of the caliper. The bolts in the box appear to be much bigger and chunkier. The rusted bolts on the caliper are thinner and I suspect they go all the way through the caliper which means they are long.
Any ideas?
#8
10-06-2012, 08:42 PM
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It is not that easy eventhough the description is explanatory; the trick is removing those 2nos. 12 MM bolts that are sticky and rusted over the years. If the bolt head is damaged, you're gone. tapping it with a hammer is a theoretical solution, you need powertools maybe air powered to get the torque required because these have not been removed for a couple of years at least if you do not need change the pads and you don;t drive downhills to use the brakes, that is in rather flat areas of the US or Canada or elsewhere., it would be wiser to go for a Let-them-do-it-for-you on this one,,,,
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