I have a 2000 v70 xc and it revs fine in park and neutral but as soon as I put it in drive or reverse, the car will not roll and turning the wheel kills the engine the code say it is a idle air control valve, but would that be something that causes the situation?

 

There is no "idle air control valve" on a 2000. You have the known to fail drive by wire electronic throttle that controls the engine speed. Looks like the one below.

https://xemodex.com/us/available-ser...ottle-modules/

 

Would that cause the issue tho?

 

A bad throttle module maybe - usually there will be codes related to that stored. Possible codes below. Does your scan tool talk to all the control modules? Sometimes the throttles seize or become very stiff, should be able to push the throttle plate open with your fingers (I know it's not easy to get to and it's spring loaded so it takes just a little force) A used part may or may not work. Technically the throttle is "coded" to the VIN of the car. Some have had success with a used throttle module. (applies to 1999-2001, some 2002 year models only) Note there are no Volvo codes that say "idle air control valve" - so not sure what kind of scan tool you are using.

 

I was using a snap on scanner tool and then I switch the Matco because everyone the same Snapon doesn’t freaking work on Volvo ‘s come to find out the both of them didn’t work, so then I had to use the shop that I work as a Volvo scan tool. It just doesn’t make any sense though it says idle air control valve and it revs in neutral and park, so how can the throttlebody be getting stuck when I put it in reverse or drive?

 

I have seen throttles (ETM) that only open partially.

It may not be related to the throttle at all. What's the fuel pressure under a load?

 

I’ll look when I’m home seems normal enough someone told me loose ground but I just put 3k in sensors and parts into this thing cause it’s been sitting since 04 I had the motor overhulled with billet pistons and rods billet intake it’s all on stock power tho I haven’t gone to a halteck ecu yet but it has been doin this since I got it, I ordered a new throttle body last night to be sure that wasn’t it but I’ll send a message when I get the reading

 

Didn't realize you had done major work -

SO - idles but won't accelerate - How about an air leak between the turbo and the throttle plate? You had all those hoses/pipes off.

 

All new ipd stainless pipe and new silicone, and I did double check it cause that’s what I thought but no leaks anywhere

 

and it idlesand revs in park and neutral ac on makes it shake too depending on the throttle position but when I’m drive and reverse no throttle response at all

 

So I pulled out the throttlebody and it is spotless. Looks brand new functions properly and the plug is clean. I used electronic parts cleaner on it plugged it back in still the same issue. I put a Bosch math sensor in still same issue. I’m kind of at a loss as to what could be just as a precaution I got a van unlocked transmission ECM, and had a coded today and plugged it in and started the car. The transmission codes went away goes into gear just fine still but it’s still doing that weird thing where it’s not opening itself up in gear.

 

also, pressure is good. All injectors are working and new. I even went as far as to check every other sensor, such as the camshaft sensor so on and so forth nothing seems to be out of whack, and or damaged. The old pipes were a little oily, but I did a deep clean on the engine before putting it back together and had it baked blasted rehoned and surfaced as well as the new power steering pump new cams water pump timing belt guides the crank was good, so I left that I got a new variable valve, timing gear for the exhaust cam new variable cam sensor/activator new radiator new turbo, new turbo, cooling lines engine mounts driveshaft, brakes, calipers, etc. but I’ve hunted down every single wire every ground still nothing