Hello,
Long time multiple Volvo owner here, with an odd question for all y'all.

I am planning on buying a V70 (maybe tomorrow) -- a non-AWD model. But an XC has just popped up near me and I had a thought.

My original plan is to drop a manual FWD transaxle (perhaps a unit out of an 850) in the V70 and attach the electric motor to that, with or without a clutch has not been decided. But I'd prefer to drive the rear wheels with an electric motor.

So here's my question: Could the rear differential on the V70XC stand up to doing all of the driving of the car if the driveshaft was connected to an electric motor?

Note: this is not a question about the wisdom of the idea or the relative complexity. Merely: if all the driving was done by the rear diff, could it last in that role, or would it implode?

Thanks

 

Certainly - How much do you want to spend?

 

That wasn't the question. To re-state:

Could the rear differential on the V70XC stand up to doing all of the driving of the car alone?

 

The rear diff and rear axles are smaller than other RWD cars I've experienced. So sure it would work, sending all power through those itty bitty axles and cv joints, but for how long and under how much torque?

So - Same answer - How much do you want to spend? Try it we are all curious (but not many are willing to spend hard earned dollars on it) Hey I saw a Saab 96 wagon from the late 60's with a 6.2
Chevy engine in it (rwd with slicks) on bring a trailer today - so everybody has something that makes them smile!.

 

If the axles and CV are 'itty bitty' that's the answer I need.
Adding a different rear end and CV's with the huge hassle that implies is a bridge too far.

I'm going for inexpensive oin this project. Fully functioning electric car, approx. 10K all in. 40-50 miles range, 75 mph capable.
This will be a 'running errands around town' car. That's 90% of what I use a car for, Most days I don't put more than 10, 12 miles on my car. A car with 40 miles range will be just fine, I'll be able to hoon around (as is my wont) and not worry about running out of juice.

My Budget:

Forklift drive moter , rebuilt, brushes advanced. 300.00. DONE and tested.
Motor controller electronics, hand built. Should be under 100, using Arduino. ON ORDER
Electric switchgear for controller, 2 IGBT's, some capacitors, wire, busbars. 100.00. DONE and tested.
Donor car: 2000.00 . Going to see (and maybe) buy a 1998 V70 this morning. PENDING.
Miscellaneous chassis repairs/refurbishment/ires/brakes/misc: 1500 budgeted.
Manual transaxle and motor coupler: 1000. No clutch assembly needed.
Vaccum pump for power brakes, electric power steering pump, 400.00
Charger: 1000.
BATTERIES: 3500. This makes or breaks the car, so I may spend more for more range and speed. But that's the budget for now.

If I can recoup some costs by selling the engine and transaxle, I might get a couple hundred back. Any place I save money goes back in the battery budget for more or better batteries.

 

Got the car! W00t!

 

I think that (NO) was the right answer. I am not a Haldex fan, and that's what is under there. You won't find anything solid to connect to. The system was never intended to operate for any significant length of time.

 

The initial thread premise is a dead issue for me now... I bought a FWD V70 last weekend.

Onward!