Hello all,
I will soon be getting a 98 v70 turbo. I’ve never owned a Volvo (or non-American car for that matter), and have no idea what I’m getting myself into. I’m not even sure if my scanner would work on it. I am mechanically inclined but am not familiar with these power trains. Is there anything I should be aware of? Common failures, issues ect? Thanks in advance!

 

I'm just learning the V70 myself (I've owned a bunch of other Volvos) but OBD2 will read engine codes on yours. I'm still figuring out how to read ABS/SRS; for those, Volvo has some weird system that normal OBD2 can't access.

Volvos are great cars. The longer you have it, the more you'll appreciate it. They're just so well made.

Change your timing belt and water pump if you don't know when it was last done.

cheers

 

The 98 is mechanically an 850; no difference at all. Be sure to read the 850 "new owners" thread that is stickied. It is very good and needs to be taken seriously.

These cars are very easy to get parts for (by mail) and very easy to work on. They last quite a long time. At the age of 24 years, some of the electrical complexity is concerning. The HVAC controller (on most of them) and the instrument panel are both "modules" reporting/receiving data to other parts of the car. ABS module is flaky at this age on about all of them. The engine control module and in fact the whole powertrain is very solid.

 

I was coming to the conclusion the engine bay was just like an 850, just poking around. I had an 850 a few years ago.

That car got retired because it puked its main oil seals: the PVC system had gotten plugged before I had a chance to service it -- I even had the parts sitting on the shelf when it happened. Bad luck.

I'll be checking the PVC system this weekend on the V70. Even though I'm pulling the engine out in the fall, I'm hoping to sell it to recoup my costs a little as I convert to electric.

 

a couple things. for reading ABS/SRS codes, the problem may be your OBD reader not the Volvo. Not all code readers support the "chassis" code set, and not all are compatible with the early OBD protocols. Personally I've had no issues reading codes on my 2000 S40, including SRS codes.

Regarding the seals, usually its the cam seals that can get pushed out when the PCV clogs. those you should be able to push back in. Also if you upgraded the car to synthetic oil only to find leaks, try going back to a non synthetic "high mileage" oil with seal softeners. That may fix or slow down the bleeding. If you do in fact replace the timing belt, buy a kit with front cam seals and a front main seal to install when the timing belt is off. I probably have some unused seals sitting around in my parts box. PM me if interested and I'll see if I have some stuff to send you gratis.

 

The 850 with the leaks is long gone, but thanks for your generous offer.

What OBD2 reader do you use, that can read the chassis codes? I'd like to try to find one like it. My Foxwell is a darn good unit, especially for viewing live data and finding vacuum leaks by watching the fuel trim, but I can see why it might be too sophisticated and trip itself up.

 

LOL I use a $29 Harbor Freight! (CEN-TECH) but only for emissions stuff. Anything more I usually wind up getting my local indy to do a quick scan for free. Generally you need a scanner that is ISO 9141 compatible for the early years, CAN became the standard in about 2005.

Here's a page which lists the OBD 2 protocols by model/year. https://pinoutguide.com/CarElectroni...r_pinout.shtml

 

I have an Autel MX808 at home that gets the job done.

I have a cheapest of the cheap OBDII reader that connects to my iphone that I keep in my car for emergencies to see whats up when something throws a CEL. Cost me about $15, but has been very useful.