Hello I am new here and have a Volvo problem
It is a 97 year and has been very good, but the transmission in just the last week is not doing what it should do. It runs ok for the first few minutes ( maybe 5) then it starts to feel like it is "pulling back" if I hard accelerate, but it will let me accelarate slowly, but it cant really get above 80 and has troubles going uphills. Downhills its fantastic. ( No, I am not a car buff) Is this a common problem?are there any solutions? ( other than a new gearbox).
Would flushing the gearbox help? How often is that recommended?

Also What I would like to know are if there are options to have the bands re-tightened in the gearbox? Is that an option for this model?


Thanks in Advance

 

It doesn't sound like it's slipping from your description. Slipping is usually when the engine revs aggressively between gears. I'd be more inclined to think it's the engine loosing power.
If you take it to an Auto Zone or Advance Auto Parts type place they will read the error codes for you for free. That would be a good place to start. Do you have any warning lights?

 

I agree with Willvo - slipping can create what's called "motor boating" where the engine speed can change without a corresponding change in road speed. Typical transmission faults are hard shifting from gear to gear, revving between gears (ie slow shifting), failure to find all gears (such as starting in 2nd or 3rd gear). These are electronically controlled via a set of solenoid valves - so any odd electrical behavior (ie a solenoid appearing as an open circuit or a short circuit) will generate a fault code (check engine light, ABS and tracs light blinking etc). If you have a check engine light on, or your ABS/Tracs lights blinking best to get the OBD2 codes to start your diagnostics. The XCs being all wheel drive actually have two components that can fail - the transmission - which does have wet clutches and bands as well as a a bevel (angle) gear (to turn the power 90 degrees for the rear drive shaft). Best way to decide on the transmission flush idea is to first look at the color of the fluid. If its red/reddish brown - that's good. You can full flush without worries of crud. If its dark brown, it means you may have started to burn up clutch bits so a simple drain and fill is a better choice. If its black, best to drop the pan and look for metal and other bits - probably means the transmission is on its way out so start planning for a replacement. You can clean up and refill but know that those bits and burn fluid came from some parts wearing out.

All that said, engine tune can often appear as a transmission problem so before going all in on the tranny, do as Willvo suggests and pull codes and plan on a tune up - ie plugs/wires/cap/rotor, check for intake air leaks, clean the MAF and idle air valve, check for fuel pressure and fuel delivery components (hopefully an OBD2 code will give you some clues)

 

Another thing to check: the MAF. I had a similar problem on a Range Rover, went to the dealer (twice) and charged $100 each time for an official 'notebook' test, they diagnosed a faulty gearbox that needed a rebuild. Quoted me $5500, I knew they didn't do them in house, found the company that did the work, paid $3800, they told me there really wasn't anything wrong with the gearbox other than a little wear on second, but nothing that I needed to be concerned about.
Went to my usual service Indie, didn't even manage to work home before he found the problem with a generic test system. Faulty MAF meter, the computer wasn't supplying enough fuel to get the necessary power through the gearbox! $395 & 2 minutes to fix.