just bought this car. It is blowing white smoke out of the exhaust. U want to do a compression test but there is a large tube going over the top of the motor not sure what it is. Any help would be great.

 

The "large tube" takes compressed air from the turbocharger and feeds it to the intercooler. White smoke from the exhaust is usually oil burning - possibly/probably getting into the engine from a bad turbo. A compression test will not tell you much, the extra oil in the cylinders will make for great compression readings!

Watch your oil level -

 

Did not know the car was turbocharged. never heard it run. Could the bad turbo cause the dipstick to push out and blow oil on the motor, thought rings since that happened.
How can I tell for sure if it is turbocharged no room to see anything under the hood. Do you have remove the motor to replace it

Thanks

 

If there is a large black plastic tube over center of the the engine preventing you from removing the spark plug cover - it's turbocharged. If it's an xc70 with the plastic fender flares, all of those are turbo. The dipstick being pushed out could easily be from a clogged PCV system. Very common and will cause serious and very expensive oil leaks. It's possible for a clogged PCV system to force oil to leak from the turbo into the engine - causing the white smoke. (and the turbo might actually be ok)

I would be very cautious - the more you drive the sooner something very expensive to repair is going to happen.

 

where is the pvc valve at

 

Not that simple - there is an oil separator box mounted on the side of the engine under the intake manifold that is the main clogged culprit . Many components are part of the system and usually all need to be replaced as well as the oil pan removed to clean a passage into the oil pan that gets clogged. (and replace the oil pickup tube that gets clogged while you are there). This kit shows most of the parts needed for a typical Volvo 5 cyl (I'm not recommending them as a vendor, or suggesting that's the correct kit for your car, just using their picture)

https://www.ipdusa.com/products/1126...UaAloaEALw_wcB

Here is a good write up courtesy of FCP. The pictures of deposits they describe as "heavily clogged" are not - usually those ports are completely blocked on the ones I have replaced.

https://blog.fcpeuro.com/volvo-pcv-b...-and-diagnosis

 

,Thanks for the info, Have you ever done it if so about how long does it take. I used to be a mechanic so I know my way around cars.

 

On a 2001 you will find many hours of work. PCV replacement - you will break stuff getting it apart, and wonder why Volvo put that bolt under the corner of the intake manifold that interferes with the alternator and is at a funny angle so it's difficult/impossible to get back in - and the metered orifice in in it - make sure it's new or perfectly clean. Replacing PCV/intake manifold/preheater tube - a few hours if everything goes well. If the passage to the oil pan is clogged - oil pan removal is needed and you might/will find it full of a charcoal like substance. Removal/cleaning/reinstallation - a few hours. Depends on how much charcoal is in the pan. Problem will be knowing exactly what parts you will need. What does the timing belt look like? When was it replaced? Serpentine belt? Jobs like this can snowball very quickly. Cam oil seals? You have the exhaust smoke problem - do you think this will solve it?

Repairs on a 2001 can easily exceed the value of the car - especially since the transmissions are known for failure. (that's probably why the car was for sale) When was the transmission replaced? I have purchased several of those 2001/2002 cars - from customers with bad transmissions/bad head gaskets from broken radiators - major repairs that exceeded the value of the car.

Evaluate this car carefully for needed repairs before you embark on this journey - the cars I purchased (and spent more than they were worth fixing) were given up because the retail repairs would cost close to the value of the car.

 

Those are all things I was thinking. Which is why I asked how long, and about compression testing. The timing belt is new just replaced there is a tag from a dealer under the hood.
Trans is shifting hard some times. have not decided if I should fix or just get rid of it

 

Some of those transmissions can/will shift normally for the first 1/2 hour or so - then the hard shifts, flares, slamming into gear starts - Then the car gets sold because nobody drives a car on a 1/2 hour test drive.

Google "volvo slam shifts", or "volvo valve body" for more info -

 

My question. How do we prevent PCV clogging. I ALWAYS hv my oil changed on time. 7500 miles. Service rep changed me from Castrol to Mobile 1. he said they were using that in all Volvos. I hv a 2006 XC 90 5 cyl Turbo. 160.000 miles. Cam seal were replaced as they were leaking. I use the same shop fo all the repairs and service on this suv. thanks for any comments.

 

best way to prevent PCV systems from clogging is to use the best available oil and as noted change on time but after 15 years there will be some accumulation of gunk in the block. Using to synthetic will help but most consider this a normal service at around 150K miles. Your cam seals were probably leaking due to positive crank case pressure pushing oil out vs worn seals. Fix the PCV and the leaking usually stops unless the seals got pushed out (which can be pushed back in...).

A few things for the older white blocks (ie 850s/V70s etc) - the PCV service includes replacing hoses as well as the oil separator. A best practice is to rod out the block ports when the hoses are off. Another thing to consider is to drop the oil pan to degunk the bottom end. Some also advocate doing a Seafoam treatment to the oil prior to the PCV servicing as well. After that if you run synthetic, you should be good for another 100K+ miles.

 

What is a Seafoam treatment never heard of that before

 

It's a product designed to take money from your wallet and give it to someone else. With the advertised idea that the product you are buying has a benefit.

To pour any sort of product that is not a high quality engine oil into an engine crankcase and start the engine ----

In my humble opinion -------- is not a good idea and is not recommended by ANY car manufacturer.