My 2004 V70 2.5 has recently has the left low beam go out and the text box has quit working. The low beam should be either the bulb or fuse and shouldn't be a bid deal but the text box is not something I've had before. I used get into the dashes of my 240s all the time, this is more intimating to me
The Text window has gone dark. I don't find it on the fuse list, maybe I'm missing something or it's with something else?
I have downloaded the wiring manual but those can take a lot of time to trace out and may not be where the problem is.

Looking for suggestion on where to look or what might solve this.

I used to be on here a but quite a while back and I've moved to place where Volvos just aren't a thing. My wonderful mechanics in Denver at Vovo Parts closed up shop a few years ago. I'm kind of on my own here. I'm hoping to deal with this myself. I replaced a coil a summer ago and the fuel rail pressure sensor last month. Otherwise the car is in pretty good shape.

 

You may need on of these - check the common symptoms section near the bottom of the page

https://xemodex.com/us/product/drive...epair-service/

 

Thanks. The headlight is probably the bulb. I was thinking I replaced it too recently but it is a couple years and the winter weather temps here are more extreme than Colo so they probably don't last as long.
The DIM looks like another story. I'm an hour from the nearest parts store and for a Volvo I'm usually better off just ordering parts to avoid the almost but not quite parts. If my car is down I will be completely stranded out here in the sticks and we are into the below freezing weather time, a warm day now will be in the 30s or maybe the 40s. So I can't do the few things I can handle much beyond something like replacing a bulb, or get a mechanic (all backyard here) to do it either.
My question now is, how long can I likely let this ride? The digital clock hasn't kept time in the 4 years I've had the car, the 740 I had for several years had the same problem without anything else going out. If it's just the text window I'm not much concerned, but if I end up with the rest of the instrument cluster going out that's a problem.

Any thoughts on how long this might typically hold out?

 

Bad clock is a symptom of a DIM problem also - but if the DIM stops working completely - the car will still run.

Replacement is an easy DIY project, a few screws - maybe 10 minutes with time for a beer in the middle - and a company such as xemodex offers 1 or 2 day repair/return service - so if you choose - the car won't be down for long - and/or you might be able to drive with the cluster out. I have not tried in your year range, but in another Volvo (a much older car) the alternator would not work with the cluster out.

 

Thank you. North central Montana can be brutal in the winter. I'm hoping I can deal with this after winter. I noticed yesterday, when I started the car the text box came on briefly and then went off. After a short drive when I started the car again it didn't come on again. Hoping it's not completely gone.
Fingers crossed!

 

I don't know if this makes sense but the text window is working again. While checking the head lamp that is out to see if looks like it's just the bulb I noticed there are 2 hoses that plug into the back of the air filter housing. One was disconnected. It took some adjusting to get it to plug back in. Looks kind of like the little vacuum hoses that the 200s have all over the place. That and fussing with the access to the headlight was all I touched. When I started the car the text window was on and stayed on. Started it a couple times doing a quick errand and it's still working.
Here's hoping it keeps on keeping on!

 

Tinkerbell...wondering if your DIM is still working.

I'm having this issue in the same year V70. Wondering if it could just be a plug on back of cluster that worked loose?

I've got a codereader, so can find out what the DIM shows (I hope), but it'd be nice to have working...simply...without having to mail off the cluster.

 

Mine is on and off right now.
When the weather is more congenial I may pull it and see if everything is connected.

 

There’s only one plug with about 10 wires in it and it is securely attached. The problem might be a poor connection inside the DIM. Others have successfully resoldered those.

 

I'll be giving it a good going over with a magnifier

 

I have a small suggestion pertaining to the headlights which I've performed on several of our cars.
The H7 bulbs have blades which plug into a socket made of thin plastic. The plastic frequently crumbles away with age and heat.
The female connections loosen as well. You can give each side of each connector a slight squeeze with pliers to restore a solid connection if they've loosened.
If neglected, these connections will burn. Resistance goes up, bulbs fail sooner and the plastic plug crumbles away sooner.
Use a dash of silicone (dielectric) grease on bulb connections whenever you can.

NOTE: If the plastic socket has crumbled away in your car you can easily remove all the fractured bits and just use the connectors bare.
The two blades of the H7 bulb keep the connectors separated and parallel. Wrap one with electric tape if it makes you more confident.

NOTE: The vacuum lines you described on the back of the air filterer box are for the incoming air temperature heater control valve. The vacuum for this circuit is on the intake manifold's right side together with 2 other vacuum tap-offs. Make sure the 90º rubber elbows haven't split (as mine did). They can look OK but if you flex 'em a bit they'll reveal if they're sound. Repair as necessary. I used silicone vacuum hose and curved it into place as there was room to do this. I didn't bother to seek genuine Volvo rubber elbows (Ha-Ha).

 

Thank you. Got the headlight taken care of, just the bulb. That seems to all be fine. The dash and DIM are still on and off. Once things warm up I'll see what that looks like. Hoping me and my soldering iron can fix it.

I've seen pricing from places you pull it, send it in, they repair and send it back, that range from $1400 to $169. That's a pretty wide range.

 

I've used Xemodex hundreds of times with my business - they always fix it right the first time and the service is very quick - can almost be overnight from the east coast. The $1400 price is probably for a new unit with a download to program it.

 

"Cold joints" which finally crack and interrupt a circuit are what we see in bad DIMs.
In brief, there are connections which are easier to resolder than others. The ABS unit has separated connections which are said to be fairly easy reached.
In the center of the DIM's board is a 2" square processor with finer leads. The processor is easy enough to see but the wee prongs and sockets are many and very close together.
You'll be able to decide real fast whether to risk burning a hole through the board or sending it off to XeMODeX.

I got off easy. My symptom was "the first one everybody sees"; intermittent functioning of the blue high beam indicator light.
The flakey blue bulb was my friend for 6 of 9 years. It never got worse.....until the test drive when the clock numerals began running.
The buyer knew about XeMODeX and the problems didn't effect the sale.