Considering a low-mileage 2004 Volvo V70 2.5T. I've looked at P2's with some trepeidation - have a 1998 V70 with 197k trouble-free miles. Wanted to get forum's thoughts on that model/year. I've trolled the forum and have looked at TrueDelta - nothing consistently jumps off the page. A few google searches pull up potential issues with intake valves. Also have heard some nightmares of chasing electronic gremlins with these model years.

Would love this forum's feedback. Thanks

http://autos.msn.com/research/vip/Re...olvo&model=V70
Periodic problems on this vehicle are the failure of the Engine Intake Valves, Leak Detection Pump, Radiator and Crankcase Ventilation Hose under the intake manifold.

 

Here is my 1/11/13 post to a similar question. Since then, I have 117K total miles. This year I finally replaced the original battery and replaced all five ignition coils after a misfire in 2 of 5 cylinders (~$800). Ignition coil replacement is fairly common at about 120K miles. The RTV silicone caulk completely fixed the vacuum leak on the brake booster and saved me $700. I did change tranny fluid at 43K miles and 100K miles. I now plan to do a drain and refill every 30K miles.

I also pulled the heater blower motor and lubed it to resolve a squeak in really cold weather. Otherwise, the car was paid off in 2008 and still runs/looks nearly new.

Bob
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Hey there

I have a 2003 V70 2.5T AWD (not XC70) which I have owned since new and 108K miles. Very generally, I would say the build quality on the car is exceptional. This includes the interior after my wife shuttling two boys around everywhere for 8 years. The leather wears like iron and everything looks as new. Unfortunately, I cannot say the same for our 2008 Toyota Highlander.

Typically, I have the car serviced twice a year and keep up with fluid changes (incl Mobil 1 5W-30 synthetic oil). In no particular order, here are issues I have.
Front brake pads last about 30k miles. Front rotors last 60K. However, at my last change I used ceramic brake pads which are on track to last 60k miles. Best part of ceramic pads is almost zero brake dust.
Rear brake pads last about 40k miles. Rear rotors last 80K.
Front sway bar links, tie rod ends and control arm bushings are weak and need periodic replacement (30K on the sway bar links, 60K on the others)
Still running original struts and shocks with no issues.
Replaced right front upper spring seat at 107K miles for $375
At 43K miles I had the infamous "shift flare" issue between 2-3rd gears. Dealer did a fluid change and SW upgrade under warranty. No further issues. I suspect a car with 100k+ miles either had it fixed already or will not experience the issue.
I also drained and refilled ATF at 100K even though Volvo says it is lifetime fill. Note, Volvo gets $20+ per quart (need 11-12 quarts). You can buy the same spec ATF from Mobil (JWS 3309) or Toyota Type IV for $5/quart.
Bleed brake fluid every 2 years
Flush cooling system every 60K
60K miles replace spark plugs
Replaced timing belt and water pump at 7 years (80.8K miles, $1,100))
93K miles replace faulty (leaking) power steering pump reservoir (known weak point) and replace upper engine torque mount ~$550).
100K miles replace right rear wheel hub assembly ~$525. This led to severely "cupped" tires which had to be replaced.
Currently running Continental Extreme Contact DWS tires which are all season tires rated very high in snow (we live in CT).
101K miles replace lower transmission torque mount (DIY about $10)
Also, the brake booster has developed a "hissing" vacuum leak just above my feet in the foot well. A new brake booster is ~$700 installed. But, it does not impact performance and I plan to fix this with a $5 tube of RTV sealant tomorrow.

I haven't changed the other driveline fluids and wondered about this. There are three in the AWD system
-Bevel gear case (a part of the tranny) (API GL-5 75W-90 Fully Synthetic)
-Transfer case (Haldex case) (Specific Oil for the AWD Clutch, Volvo PN 1161641 superseded by 30759648/ 31325136)
-Rear differential (API GL-5 SAE80W)

Good luck. These are great cars which require some money in the 75K to 100K mile range but, after that I expect will go strong to 200K.

Overall, the car is outstanding. It suffers from turbo lag off the line but, is deceivingly fast when making passing moves.

Bob
PS: original factory battery still going strong after 10 years
PPS: unfortunately requires hi-test fuel. I get ~20.5 mpg around town.

 

I have a 2004 T2.5 AWD Wagon with 197,000 mi - very well built car with some weaknesses.

Major:

1. defective fuel pump will fail if you live in an area where it gets hot. Mine was covered under warranty even at 170k mi but I had to ask them to honor the fuel pump warranty that technically excluded my car because it was originally purchased in NY state (not covered as hot enough up there lol)

2. At 182,000 miles and 12 years I had the transmission cooling line rupture within my radiator and mix all my trans fluid and coolant! Suddenly just lost a couple liters of coolant and had brown coolant. If I had driven it after the CEL I would have trashed the tranny. New radiator and a very messy multiple flushing of both systems later seems fine for the last year.

Not so Major:

3. usual front end stuff. Ball joints, tie rod ends control arm sway bar all last ~60-80K.
4. Upper engine mount of course every 60k
5. Struts at 150k
6. Rear wiper motor made it till 130k
7. AC compressor clutch wear at 188k see 'ac compressor bread tab fix' (I used zip ties).
8. 'Soft touch' plastics on the interior look bad after they start to wear and peel. Some interior plastic is white painted plastic that can look bad as it wears.
9. Exhaust hanger on rear rusts out and breaks - aftermarket fix easily available.

Its not a perfect car, its loud and has a bumpy ride with not the most spacious interior but it drives very well, has comfortable seats and is, for the most part, very durable. I hope to get 250k/16yrs at least.

 

Many people think they are changing trans fluid with drain and refill, that is just mixing old with new.
I did it myself to do it quickly.

Best method is take off cooling line, place into jug
Allow 3 qts to be pumped out, add 3 qts, shutting off car in between.
Start off with draining pan.
Then do this until clean red fluid comes into jug, about 12 qts.
3 red valvoline jugs usually does it.

My first one was my 04 c70, used the mobil fluid and the toyota also.
Valvoline with volvo approval works fine.
My 04 gave solenoid issue 100 miles after buying it, ended up changing valve body 60K miles ago
son has car in school now.

 

The replies above are very good the only thing I would add is to use a genuine Volvo timing belt kit. You can find one here https://www.myvolvoparts.com/search....731727&search=

 

Why only three quarts? The transmission capacity is 7.9 liters. Just curious as to the maximum amount that can be safely pumped out without damaging the transmission.

 

Many posts cite 2 quarts per pump-out.
3.25 to 3.75 quarts of fluid drain when the plug is removed but nobody knows how close to the bottom of the pan the pump's suction port is so 2 quarts is a safe number.

Sucking the sump dry creates bubbles in the system. I do not know how damaging it is to have bubbles or how long it takes for any bubbles to work themselves out. I suppose avoiding them is what you want to do.

If you do disconnect a cooling line do yourself a favor. Do a drain and fill first so you get the full benefit of the first pump out by starting with 100% clean, new fluid in the sump. By doing this you might get your fluid to run clear with fewer than 10 quarts. When you get to the third round, have a helper go through the gears so fresh fluid washes the valve body's inwards.

 

Thanks for the reply and advice. Sounds like a solid plan.

 

5 YEAR UPDATE 2004 T2.5 AWD Wagon with 197,000 233,600 mi

Ive gone through another set of ball joints. I developed a leak in the rack and pinion because I man-handled the axle doing tie rods (bummer) - I just live with the small leak as the part and replacement is expensive and a pain. Engine is now burning about a quart of oil every 1200 miles. Changed the plugs and noticed oil in #3 and #4 cylinders - Ill do a compression test to see if its rings or head gasket then a leak-down if required to see if it might be a valve issue. Interior is still great and paint and body also look very good. Probably coming to the end of the life of this beauty but the 2.5T AWD is one of the best built configurations built by Volvo. I fear the Chinese era Volvo's cannot match this quality of materials and build.