I'm looking at possibly doing a LONG tow, pulling a fairly large (6' x 12'?) box trailer. I see that the V70 T5 has a rated capacity of 3,300 pounds (pretty impressive). I wonder if anyone here knows the capacity of the Volvo trailer hitch, in terms of maximum trailer weight and tongue weight. I assume the hitch IS a Volvo unit because of its complexity and quality... it looks too well-engineered to be an aftermarket hitch (at least from what I can see of it).

Anyone out there have any towing experience to share?

 

1,500 lbs for a trailer without brakes, 3,300 lbs for a trailer with brakes.

I towed a trailer about 625 miles. It was about 1,400 lbs if I had to guess. Didn't really know it was behind me until someone cut me off and I had to brake hard. Got about 18 mpg @ 63 mph. My hitch is a DrawTie.

 

My next challenge is to hook up a flat four-pin trailer lighting connection to my car. It's obviously got a trailer wiring system installed, but the wiring harness has been cut off at the hitch. I checked the color coding, and it's consistent with the typical European 5-pin wiring (ground, running lights, left turn signal, right turn signal, and brakes). Thing is, most US trailers use a four-pin connector, doubling up on the turn signal and brakes.

I've read conflicting stories on what I'll need to make all this work. Some say I need a special Volvo harness and maybe reprogramming. Others suggest that a typical (cheap) 5 to 4-wire adapter will work. That makes sense unless the current drain associated with the extra trailer lights will cause problems. It seems unlikely since the wiring that's already there is obviously set up to handle extra current.

Anyone here had any experience getting a trailer with a "flat four" connector to work? A quick glance at the vehicle schematics makes it look like the current to the light bulbs comes through relays, so it doesn't seem like there's much chance of any "feedback" to the wiring buss. I've got a 5 to 4-pin adapter in hand, and ready to install... any reason I shouldn't?

 

I installed the 5 to 4-wire adapter this morning, and am happy to report that it works like a champ (I wired up a trailer plug and a couple tail lights I had laying around to simulate the trailer). No warning lights on the dash, and the running, brake and turn signal lighting all works like it should.

Again, I'm assuming that the previous owner installed a "normal" Volvo tow lighting system, supported by the fact that the right feedthrough grommet was in place for the wiring to come through the panel in front of the rear bumper. End result is $14 spent on the adapter instead of $100+, so I'm a happy camper this morning.

Now all that remains is to see how a 2.3 liter motor can pull a 6x12x5.5 foot Uhaul trailer, although one that will probably only weigh about 2,000 pounds or so loaded, and that has a hitch-mounted braking system so I don't have to worry about stopping (too much).

 

The total tow rating on the volvo hitch does not translate to 10% tongue weight. The after market hitches are weighted for 10% tongue weight, but have the 1-1/4" receiver hole. The factory hitch sits higher (you have to cut the bumper) and I feel it looks better. There is a guy in the airstream forums that pulls 6,000 lbs with his s60. What he did is take the factory hitch and weld an extension to it to bolt it to where the rear suspension bolts to the frame. It allows a weight distributing hitch to be used without flex.

I've never had good luck with after market solid state converters for the lights. They work for a few months then burn up. I wired mine up with relays. The plug that is stuck in the spare tire well has two hot feeds to feed trailer lights. Feed the lights with one of these feeds and switch off of the taillights. Look in the rear fuse box and you'll see them marked. The red 20A feed needs a fuse to work and the grey 30A needs a fuse and relay.