Motor Mounts and Throttle Body, Plus Battery Issue?

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Old 08-16-2018, 10:50 AM
Wmcgr's Avatar
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Exclamation Motor Mounts and Throttle Body, Plus Battery Issue?

Hi. I am twenty years old, in college, and this is the first car that I have purchased on my own, so I am new to the formalities of dealing with mechanics, previous owners, and deciding what is and isn't a necessary repair.

I recently purchased a used 2001 Volvo V70 2.4T from a second-owner in early August. A couple of weeks before the purchase, the second-owner had the starter and throttle body replaced at her mechanic, as well as a multi-point inspection to assess the condition of the vehicle. Everything checked out fine during the inspection, and I have the receipts and printouts from the mechanic that say that. I thought I was having transmission issues recently, so I took the vehicle to my local Volvo dealership's repair department for a diagnosis of the vehicle (I was told by the second-owner's mechanic that the transmission module could need a software update). The transmission came back fine besides a "needed" fluid flush, but the throttle body came back as defective, and the dealership said that the motor mounts needed to be replaced and that it was causing a jerking/lurching feeling when I shifted from park into drive after I started the car (an issue that I was aware of, but did not know the cause). I am looking at about $650 for the transmission fluid and the motor mounts, and another $900 for the throttle.

The diagnostic for the throttle body is that it is defective and "the sensor in the throttle body has a difference of 13.54 degrees.

Because I have receipts from the throttle body replacement stating that the labor is warrantied for 90 days/4000 miles, should I contact the mechanic that replaced the throttle and demand a replacement part? The second-owner was the one who paid for the part, but they told me at purchase and the other day that they will stand by me in order to get the issue fixed. I had my car at the mechanic's shop for three days this week and he either beat around the bush and ignored the engine mount/throttle issue, or he honestly did not see it. After three days, he said that a software update might be needed and that the battery might have a messed up cell causing computer modules to not turn off properly. He did not charge me anything for the three days the car was there, so he was either being kind or hoping I would pass my issue onto the next mechanic/dealership.

I am okay with spending the $650 for the fluid and mounts if it is absolutely necessary for allowing this car to survive another 1.5+ years, but I don't know if I should be responsible for the mechanic using a defective throttle. I am looking for advice on how to deal with the throttle issue, and whether I should seriously consider investing $1500 in repairs alone in this vehicle.
 

Last edited by Wmcgr; 08-16-2018 at 11:50 AM. Reason: New Information
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Old 08-16-2018, 11:42 AM
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I think that you have two distinct issues that would be common on a Volvo of that vintage.
  1. The throttle body in that year is the type that needs a software download. The software for the functioning of the throttle body lives in the throttle body, not the ECU. If the throttle body was replaced, find out if it is a reman unit from Volvo or some other type of replacement. The only ones that I have ever used successfully are ones supplied by the dealer. There is also a software download.
  2. The harsh shifts on the transmission are due to shift solenoid failure. As the vehicle warms up, the ohms in the coil windings increases and the solenoid no longer responds well to the computer pulse signal. You can run an ocean tanker load of fluid through that transmission but the right fix is to replace the three linear solenoids. The solenoids are not expensive.
 
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Old 08-18-2018, 07:06 AM
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1) Have the ETM repaired under the warranty ASAP. Get your complaint in writing so the clock doesn't run out.

2) Do you do any automotive work yourself? Can you do an oil change? If you can do a single transmission drain and fill. If the fluid is black (not a scientific test, we know) refill what came out and either perform a series of drain & fills of have the fluid entirely replaced. Once clear try using the recommended dosage (1 oz. per system quart) of LubeGard red bottle. The LubeGard made my transmission much better. It is absolutely worth a shot.

3) While the solenoids aren't horribly expensive it'll cost plenty to have 'em installed.

As stated above, get the fluid clean and try the LubeGard.

Engine mounts are easy for any shop to change. If you find a shop which can't find "foreign car parts" go elsewhere.
 
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