I am attempting to replace the head gasket on my 2002 v70XC Turbo, right now I have to remove the cam cover. I am making the tools to hold the cams in place. Should they be held to the head or the cover? Most of the tutorials say to hold them to the cover, however, the head seems to have better screw holes to keep the tool in place.

VIDA says to use the 5454 tool to hold the cover down and loosen bit by bit when taking off the cover, but Haynes and multiple tutorials do not. Is it really necessary to have this tool?

Does the VVT thing have to be removed? I read it has to because there is a bolt that interferes with the removal of the cam cover, but I don't see it on my car.

By VVT thing, I mean this. The metal thing attached to the end of the cam. As you can see, I took the gear off.

 

You don't hold the cams to the head or the cover. You put the head on (using new torque to yield head bolts) Add a little oil on top of the lifters and cam bearings, clean up spilled oil, roll the sealant on, place the cams into position with the timing tool attached, triple check everything then put the cam cover on. Screwing it down slowly, evenly, using a few longer bolts to start with or the tools that screw into the spark plug holes.

You are going to need the cam timing tool to align the cams properly when you put it back together. The one that bolts into the other end of the cams. I've never removed a head without taking the VVT gear off - so I don't know if it's possible - you will need the cam tool to take the gear off with the head on (to avoid bending valves)

The cam cover is not just going to pop up when you remove the bolts - they can be very difficult to get off. So I would not be concerned about getting it off evenly -

Nice milkshake - but that's not a normal look for a Volvo. What created that? Overheating? Leaky oil cooler ?(but that usually goes the other way with oil in the coolant) Cracked head/cylinder?

The oil passages are not close to the coolant passages on the block/head surface so that mixing is very unusual (for a Volvo)

 

When I talk about holding the cams in place, I am doing that when taking the cover off. Am I correct that you are saying this is not necessary?

The milkshake was caused by overheating. There was not much left of the coolant, but when I drained it, there was no oil in the coolant. I'm assuming it is a blown head gasket since coolant was getting into the combustion chamber. Could the oil cooler break if the engine overheats?

Also, how do I tell if the head is cracked?

 

No tool is need to remove the cams

Oil cooler leaking into the cooling system is very rare, coolant leaking into the oil is even more rare. (on a Volvo)

Head cracked will be determined by the machine shop you send the head to. YOU (or whoever is removing and replacing the head) will determine if a cylinder is cracked and figure out how coolant mixed with the oil if it's the gasket or some other reason. If you don't - the same thing will happen again! (been there/done that) If the engine was overheated and the head is warped (it IS) - it is warped on the bottom and the top - meaning the cams are bending as they rotate. The head needs to be straightened - not just surfaced. A valve job will be needed after that - the cams and cam cover (and valve stem seals that come in your head gasket set) will need to go to the machine shop. (good thing because it's much easier for them to clean everything ) If they have done Volvos before they will have a way to hold the cams down to be able to adjust the valves after regrinding the valves and seats. If not you should choose a different machine shop - for if they screw up the valve adjustment - you won't find out until after the car is completely put back together - and it will be a royal PITA to fix the valve clearances then! (been there/done that too!)

 

Can you explain more about what a valve job is? Can I do this myself, or does someone else need to do it?

 

How much does a head resurfacing and straightening usually cost? Assuming I can not do a valve job myself, how much does that usually cost?

 

It's been years (at least 40) since I had access to valve and seat resurfacing tools and did valve jobs - and without those tools I just leave it up to the machine shop - I would imagine the process would be -

Clean head and cam cover, (bead blast/chemical cleaner) inspect head for crack/defects, aluminum heads can be pressure tested, cast iron heads can be magnafluxed. Dismantle head, Straighten head (heating and cooling cycles with straight steel bolted to head) , inspect and replace valve guides if needed. Replace/resurface valves and valve seats. Check all threaded holes to make sure none are stripped and repair as needed - usually replace exhaust manifold studs - they have a tendency to break and that's many hours into the re-installation process when that happens and are very difficult to replace with the head on the car. Clean out all passages and oil galleys of foreign material (oil sludge, bead blast material). Sometimes that involves drilling out galley plugs, using wire brushes/pressure to clean the passages and installing new galley plugs. Somewhere in the process cut a new mating surface with the correct smoothness. Adjust valves by grinding the stem slightly or replacing the lifters with the correct thickness. (special tool needed to hold the cams down to measure clearance) Test springs, replace if needed, reassemble with new stem seals. My machine shop also paints the head with aluminum paint for a uniform look. I had to get them to not paint the intake gasket mounting surface - I found that if using the factory intake gasket the painted surface would damage/tear the factory gasket. The aftermarket intake gaskets are constructed differently.

You will find answers where you can lap the valves, and have someone surface the head incorrectly - so it is possible to do a partial job yourself.

 

How much would head resurfacing and straightening cost? I've read that it would cost $80 in one place and $700 in another.

 

The shop I use in Atlanta, Allied Motor Parts, charges $375+parts (helicoils, valves, guides, as needed and that might be my wholesale price) to straighten a 5 cyl Volvo head including a valve job and valve adjustment.

I was told a valve job is needed after straightening due to the extreme heat used during that process - "the aluminum gets soft and things move around". I guess it possible the stem seals would melt also and it would be silly to take the springs off to replace the seals and not make sure the valves were seated properly. You will see if you finish this job - that no shortcuts should be taken to save a little money - you do not want to do the job again because you skipped a step or cheaped out on a valve job (unless that's just the way you roll). I have to guarantee my work for customers, A DIYer does not.

$80 sounds like an expensive resurface. But if the head is warped the cam journals/bearings are warped also so only a resurface is not really the right thing to do.