I haven't had that much of a problem with the bolts but I have had wheels fuse to the axle flange. I tend to use grease on ones that are in bad shape and anti-seize on ones in good shape. I try to rotate wheels at least once a year and that helps too. And after seeing some guys impact wheels on and warp rotors on new brake jobs I go through the little extra effort to drag out the torque wrench.

 

Thanks Tony,
At this point no one here knows why Volvo switched design, BUT I am now salvaging the new bolts for use to swap out the old style. I actually purchased 20 new ones for the 70 the other day. Remember to use a higher torque when installing the newer 2 piece ones. YA I actually snapped a thin wall 3/4 set, 19mm socket not long ago on a vehicle that had been submerged. Ridiculous if the new design is better and Volvo keeps their mouth shut because of liability or acknowledging the old design sucked!!!!!!! No need for any thread LUBE anything anymore the new ones JUST WORK SO MUCH GOD DAMM BETTER IT'S INSANE!!!! IN FACT THE NEW STYLE, MAKE A POINT OF MAKING SURE THEY ARE CLEAN WITH NO ANT SIEZ WHATSOEVER!!!! And again frequently hitting the bolt with a sacrificial socket works 99% of the time and is a lot easier than dodgem flying "unbreakable" 50$ Snap-On sockets.

Thanks

 

My “trusted” mechanic once over torqued 25% of my old-style acorn lug nuts so badly that the dealership had to take a torch to them to get them off. They were beat up so bad that I could not even get a socket on them. They were demolished. Ever since I have not let anyone touch my wheels whenever I can help it. When I have to I immediately loosen and re-torque to be sure all is good. I mean really , how complicated is tightening a nut? I don’t go to that mechanic anymore...

 

Too many "trusted" mechanics, both in the real world and here! Pierremcalpine Which Is my main point,...get rid of the old style bolts. And if you have the old style then you already know of most of the issues described here. YOU HAVE TO USE SOME NEVERSIZE ON THE CONICAL SECTION ON THE OLD BOLTS!!! Which is why I asked in the first place if anyone actually knew what I was speaking about,....and ya know what most of the alleged senior members who post incessantly here on this forum,...didn't even know Volvo switched to a 2 piece lub bolt. SO SOMEONE PLEASE TELL ME ???? HOW CAN ANYONE TRUST WHAT SOME DUNDERHEAD HAS TO SAY IF THEY ARE UNAWARE THAT VOLVO SWITCHED DESIGN YEARS AGO????? AND THEY CALL THEMSELVES KNOLEGABLE? WHY DO THEY GIVE FREELEEY OF INFORMATION THAT THEY KNOW NOTHING ABOUT!!!

What you describe is exactly what I do when I find out anyone, dealer included, esp the dealer many times,....check their work. EVERY time my vehicles come from the dealer the torque is way over tight. Combine that with the fact that the one piece bolts size up and voilà real customer satisfaction,...AND then combine that with the apparent fact that many giving advice here don't have a clue as to why Volvo changed lug bolt design, most here didn't even know there are 2 styles of lug bolts, why bother???? But yet they feel free to give advice???????

If your point is to double check others work,...WELLL THAT SEEMS TO BE THE BEST ADVICE HERE!!!

 

If you have been thru this then you would know that putting some kind of lubricant on the conical section of the lug bolt is frequently the ONLY way to ensure you can remover the bolt later on. These one piece bolts get so tight that even with a 4 foot extension your average 1/2 socket set ,...it is impossible to spin them off. My truck 3/4 impact gun is useless. This is the issue these people are faced with and you come along with inaccurate advice.

If your point is that just applying lube everywhere someone could get into trouble your point is well taken. But what do you have to say to those that are unable to remove their lug bolts????? This is my point,...unless you have been thru a situation,...and have detailed knowledge, and something to actually add, then some comments are just setting the stage for more problems down the road.

We have actual people with an issue. And the people here are trying to resolve a problem And then you come along, like so many and just start thinking out loud about something you know nothing about. Because if you actually had been thru this then perhaps you wouldn't have been so glib passing out information, totally wrong, that actually helps others,.....

OF course if your speaking about the new 2 piece lug bolts, you might be more correct in pointing out that Volvo doesn't recommend any lube on their new 2 piece design. But how many have taken the time to inform others that the new 2 piece design lug bolt is installed at a higher torque???? If you can help others feel free to share what works for the issue at hand, but if you don't then just keep quiet.

 

YOU HAVE TO USE ANTI-SEIZE ON THE ONE PEICE BOLTS. That is if you ever want to remove them again. This issue is huge. The only reason it hasn't gotten more publicity is the fact that worldwide we don't have as many blown tires as in years past. We don't have as many people changing tires on the roadside anymore. But if your wife has been thru this or anyone then you know just how impossible it is to remove Volvo lug bolts in the first place.

MOST PEOPLE CAN NOT REMOVE THE ONE PIECE LUG BOLTS WITH THE VEHICLES TOOLS.


Which is why Volvo changed the design, which is why anyone with a brain uses anti-size on the conical section of one piece lug bolts.

 

Every package of Volvo OEM sparkplugs I have ever purchased, Vida, and years of experience all indicate that your just asking for trouble for applying anti-size on Volvo plugs.

DO NOT INSTALL VOLVO OR OEM VOLVO PLUGS WITH ANTI-SEIZ ON THE THREADS. Can I make this point any simpler? Additionally Volvo indicates that you are NOT to install plugs with anything on the threads either,....this is written basically on every package of Volvo plugs,....how could you miss that??????

 

THIS IS ABSOLUTLY NOT TRUE WITH THE ONE PIECE BOLTS. True with the 2 piece bolts. End of discussion. Direct from Vida.

 

I retract my statement, "I use anti-seize on spark plugs." I have never used anti-seize on Volvo spark plugs. For one thing I have never changed plugs on any of the three Volvos we have owned (1996 850 wagon, 2004 V70, 2007 XC90).

I used to use anti-seize when I changed plugs on my previous cars, the last one of which was a 1991 Dodge Spirit with 2.5 L 4-cyl, which I sold in 2007 after over 16 years of service, and on my lawnmower engines.

I was wondering if I should use anti-seize on the plugs on the 2007 XC90 3.2L I6, if and when I change the plugs on it, and I am glad to have the question settled. No anti-seize. We bought the XC90 new in April 2007 and it has less than 70 kmi. I guess it is time to change the plugs. I may have the dealer do it. It is our only car and I don't want to mess it up. For one thing I don't have a torque wrench.

 

I stlll have the original bolts on our 2007 XC90. I guess they are the one piece ones. I get new tires at Discount Tire in Dallas; they use a torque wrench for the final tightening. They never seem to have any trouble removing the lug bolts. I take the XC90 in for free tire rotation.

 

I have never had to do a roadside tire change on any of our Volvos, so I don't know if I could remove the lug bolts of our 2007 XC90 with the onboard tools. Maybe I should get the new style bolts (with the collar) and have my tire shop put them on at the next tire rotation. Do the new bolts have a different torque specification?

 

I'm not sure if you meant your comments this way but they are coming across as a criticism of most of the folks on here who are simply Volvo owners who have learned through doing. Individually, many of us are not great mechanics but collectively we have amassed a fair amount of knowledge. Yes, you do have to use your own judgment and experience in taking others comments into consideration but as long as you do, everyone benefits from the collective wisdom.


On the topic of the lug nuts, common sense says that you should not put anything on the threaded bits (otherwise the torque spec will be out of wack) but I don't see any issue with lubing up the non-threaded conical mating surface.

 

What model year did Volvo make the change to the new style lug bolts with the rotating collar (conical washer, floating cup)?

 

Sometime around 2004

 

Glad to hear that our 2007 probably has the new style bolts. I have never removed the bolts on our 2007 XC90 and looked at them.

I don't remember examining the bolts at Discount tire when getting new tires, but I will at the next (free) rotation. Just before I go to get them rotated, I'm going to try loosening one with the Volvo tire tool to see if I can do it.

 

Your frustration with tight bolts on your left front tire is understandable. To loosen them, borrow an electric impact wrench and set it to the appropriate torque setting and socket size. Apply steady pressure and avoid forcing resistance. If resistance occurs, apply penetrating oil to loosen the bolts. Stay safe by using gloves and eye protection, and take breaks and be patient. Once the tire is removed, replace the front brake pads. Wishing you the best of luck with your repair and the electric impact wrench. Keep us updated on your progress and ask any further questions.

 

Impact wrenches can generate high torque, but manufacturers provide specific torque specifications for tightening lug bolts/nuts for safe installation. It is recommended to replace overtorqued lug bolts or nuts to maintain wheel fastening system integrity, especially for vehicles with lug nuts. Prioritizing safety is crucial, as wheel-off accidents can lead to personal injury claims (check out also Adamson Ahdoot for the legal claims) To mitigate the risk, follow manufacturer's torque specifications, regularly inspect the wheel fastening system, and address concerns promptly. By prioritizing safety and following recommended procedures, you can minimize the likelihood of accidents and ensure the safety of yourself and others on the road.