Ok so I have a 2002 V70 XC. I bought it used about 10000 Mi ago it currently has about 112000 on the clock. According to Carfax Aamco overhauled the trans at 64K. It also has seen a few dealers in its life and I see trans service, It could be the software updates and so on.

Since I had it I noticed when the engine was hot after a long highway trip or something. When I made the transition to city driving I would get hard downshifts to first only. So I did a fluid exchange, I bought a case of mobil 1 3309. I followed the instructions here, everything went fine. The fluid that came out was almost the color of motor oil.

A few days ago I was driving for about 30 Mi through mixed traffic. Some highway then traffic that was more like city. While in stop and go traffic I had a really rough Downshift to first and the transmision service required message came up and the CEL. It also I guess went into limp mode because the indicater showed a line instead of the regular Drive Icon. So I pulled over let it sit a couple minutes. Checked the Fluid level which seemed a bit high. I started the car and the D came back but the messages didnt change. I drove 50 Mi with no shifting issues. My wife took it out for a quick ride down the road and she said the Trans Service message was gone but the CEL was still there. I had the code read today and it says Shift solenoid malfunction or something. I asked the guy to print it but he did not and told me p0700. But I think that was a code that was to inform you the Trans service message was tripped. So I disconected the battery to clear the code. and it came right back.

So looking at my options for the solenoids, I found a kit online that does not mention having to order only if your VB is this code. But on the sites selling refman VB they say you will have to provide a number on the VB itself. So I am thinking to order all the solenoids and linear also a gasket kit for the VB. Im trying to not have the car off the road while I wait for a Valve body. So here is what I am looking at buying.

AW 55 50SN 5551SN New Linear Solenoid Kit Saab Equinox Maxima Volvo 99404 | eBay

AW55 50 Saturn Chevy Volvo Valve Body Cover Gasket 2001ON 186 | eBay

AW 55 50SN 55 51SN AF33 New Shift Solenoid Kit Nissan Maxima Volvo 01 on 99126 | eBay

Gasket Set AW55 50SN AW55 51SN Valve Body 2000 Up | eBay

Mobil ATF 3309 Case of 12 quarts


My question is am I getting the right stuff to be able to start and finish this job without an issue? Thanks

Bill

 

Ok so I didn't get much response from my question but I was able to complete this job with only a few additions to the list I posted and 1 trip to the dealer for parts.

I followed this http://www.v70xc.com/0/resources/how...ment-Notes.pdf for removing and installing the Valve Body. I would like to note that the screw holding the cooler line to the dipstick mount was much easier to remove after the engine was lifted in the rear and dropped in the front. I just disconnected it at both end and left it in place till I was at the part of the instructions to take the Valve Body cover off. At that point I had clear access to the bolt from under the car. I would also like to note that if you are not careful and have the torx bit fully seated in the covers bolts you will strip them. I managed to strip 3 of the nine. However I purchased 9 new bolt at $2.50 a piece prior to starting. Once it was stripped I used a 1.5 ft. 3/8 drill bit and drilled the center of the head till I could use a screw driver to pop the heads off. Took about 10 min for all three bolts and no damage to the cover. Once the cover was removed I was able to unscrew the rest of the stud with my fingers. Go figure.

The only parts I added to that list were the seals and o rings mentioned in the write up. Now I obvioulsy was rebuilding the valve body myself. You can buy a rebuilt valve body for about $800. I spent $500 and a 3 day weekend, Also my rebuild was only partial As I only replaced solenoids and gaskets. The rebuild was not too difficult. However do it at your own risk. If your squeamish about little fiddly parts in a puddle of oil then just get the letter code for your VB and order it. Also the plate 3a separating the middle and bottom slice of the VB has a fused gasket that is not replaceable. If it is perished you should order new. I do not have a PN for that. If when separating the slices you hold it by the plate and lift it off, non of the little pieces will fall out. The following resources were invaluable for making sure it all went back together right.

http://www.sonnax.com/system/pdfs/87...ATRA08-RCW.pdf
Page 22 and on for this document was a lifesaver.

This is a 3 part series.

AW55 50 Wiring ID : Valve Body Pro, Built by the Pros for the Pros

There was one other page that I used it showed the non vented VB and on the third slice where there is a 5th check valve on the A and earlier there is a ball in the non vented version.

Now for the results. Initially I had some late shifting and reverse was rough. I tooled around town a bit Sunday night and it seamed ok. I cleared the CEL and it did not come back. So yesterday I took it for a run of city / Highway on my way to the dealer about 30 miles. By the time I got off the highway it was shifting much better. The dealer checked for updates on the tcm and ecm. there was one ecm update that was applied but the tcm was up to date. The service supervisor told me there is no trans oil life counter to reset. This is something I have seen conflicting information on, not too worried about it right now. The adaptive driving was a huge PITA! that first throttle position is almost impossible to keep on the road with other cars. Reverse is getting better it seams and all other shifts seam pretty smooth and tight. Time will tell. Total Cost at the dealer was $97. Oddly my dealer charges fractions of Hrs. That was a pleasant surprise.

If I had to do it again I think I would probably buy the rebuilt. I didn't this time because once I opened the cover I wanted the job completed. To order a rebuilt I would have had to open the cover get the letter off it. Close it and refill with oil. And do it again when the VB came in. There would also have been a $300 core charge till I got my old VB back to them.

Unlike alot of people on a lot of forums I wanted to update this with the answers I was seeking. I will also post back each time I do an oil change to see if the fix is good or if this is a waste of time and money. My first Oil change will be this weekend I do it every 3k. Quote from the dealer for a trans was $5k

 

Looking forward to your updates. You must be a profession mechanic and an expert at computers to post this. Thanks.

 

Thanks the newest update is all is good. I am a field Service Engineer so I drive the tri-state daily. Since the repair I have put about $6k miles on the car. There are still little issues that I think are related to not finishing the adaptive driving correctly.

I am planning on buying an old laptop with Win XP on it to use just for Vida - Dice. I'll redo it it once that happens. But I am not a mechanic. I have been a weekend DIYer since I was about 7 or 8. All of my family cars have always been worked on by my Step Dad and now by me. I just love cars and there is nothing like taking a machine and fixing it. Especially when you depend on it for your lively hood.

Interestingly if I had decided to go with a rebuild from my local dealer. It would be somewhere around 5K. I think if I was into the car and planned to have it for more then a couple years it would be worth it. Only because they get the rebuild from Volvo, they give a loaner, and it is a 2 Year parts and labor warranty on the Trans. Thats better then any Tranny shop I ever delt with. But I think Im good for now. As long as there was no other damage to the internals. Think about it. a rental for 5 days would be about $300. And the warranty alone I think is worth a couple grand.