I would clean the new belt with engine degreaser and rinse it down. It should be fine, being new.

 

I reseated the exhaust cam seal....horrible job getting the cam belt backon..ughhh.

Anyway the cam seal may have been pushed in too far and the VVT unit didn't seal properly. I set the seal flush with the cylnder head and now VVT moves like it did before with no binding at all.Also, during a short run I didn't notice any obvious oill leak like before. Getting the cam belt back on was horrible .It took me way too long.

The exhaust cam seal seals against the cylinder head and the VVT.

 

Good to read you got that sorted out. Are you all done?

 

The cam seal no longer leaks. I did find a loose 10mm top cover bolt that was allowing oil to seep up it and leak. That's ok now. The cooling system is mostly water so it tends to boil a lot sooner. Once I confirm all leaks are fixed then I'll do ancoolant & oil change. I plan on power washing the front of the motor to clean away all the old oil and gunk. I'll spray some degreaser on the belt and blow that off too. I did notice the red triangle with the ! in it was lit, Not sure wtf that is . I'll plug my obd2 reader in and see what it says. The only weird thing is if I rev it up and release the throttle the rpm drops to about 500 rpm then stumbles for a 1/2 second before the idle comes back. I'll defer that until it's on the road, hopefully next week.

I think this job is mostly done. Is it successful? Not sure yet but so far everything does what it's supposed to. Replacing the cylinder head is pretty straight forward. Just remove enough crap to get the head off and go from there. Some specialized tools would help but not 100% necessary. Other than a proper cam lock. IMO.

The VVT is no big deal, don't be afraid of it. I followed instructions found here and it worked out well. It would greatly help to have at least 2 extra hands when lining up the cam belt to the sprockets while holding the VVT and tightening the sprocket bolts.

I can tell the turbo is working. I forgot to tighten a pipe clap from the intercooler and ETM. When I accelerated the hose blew off. After I tightened the pipe clamp it's fine now.

 

Well, will it never end? The car is running & Starting fine. Now it's overheating. It warms up to normal temp(1/2 way) and will idle like that forever. On the run when going uphill the temp rises to the red. If I turn on the heater full then the temp drops.I've installed a new T-stat(195F). After I turn off the car I sometimes hear gurgling under the hood. I's coming from the expansion tank. It looks like boiling coolant is coming from the overflow tube. The fans work fine and are coming on. About the only thing left is the rad.

I doubt it;s a failed HG since it's brand new and there appears to be NO X contamination oil/coolant. The upper rad hose gets very hot and stiff from pressure. I did verify the new T-stat in boiling water it opens wide. The old T-stat didn't open very wide.

Maybe what I should do is drain the coolant and run straight water thru the rad to see how well it flows.That and some rad cleaner might help. If I can get this fixed it'll be a nice car.

Oh, don't get me going about the connections at the rear taillight !!! What a stoo pid design!!!!

ok keep on keeping on.

 

I got a new rad cap and rebled the system. I also drilled a small hole in the T-stat to let any air go thru if it was closed.I added coolant and did a short test drive to the bottom of our STEEP hill and then came back up it. It ran a lot cooler and didn't overheat!!! However, now I have a misfire and the trans is acting up. It doesn't want to move the car. The shift display on the dash goes to ----- and I can't use the shift tronic.yeesh.

 

After struggling with the overheating problem for over 1 week I this I've narrowed it down to the headgasket !! I replaced the HG when I put the head back on and now it looks bad. I suspect it;s a very small leak but enough.I still need to verify but I'm leaning that way.

 

I think it's the head gasket as well. If there is a breach that allows the combustion air to pass into the coolant passages you'll have coolant issues. Did you take the head to a shop to have it checked out?

 

I did re-read some of the thread and I see you did take the head in to have it fixed.

Not sure what could have gone wrong. I guess you did the torque process in sequence? Maybe next time oil the bolts.

 

I did oil the bolts. I followed the torque procedure. The thing is I can't detect any contamination in the oil or coolant. The thing I notice is the motor reaches temp(1/2 way on the dash gauge) sits for a while then rises. It's like the temp rise coincides with the t-stat opening,maybe.

It's a weird problem. I'd hate to pull the head to find the HG is fine. I need to try and isolate this problem. I'm considering a leakdown test.

 

Here is my head gasket story. I had no FLUID mix.

Head Removal and Installation, Volvo 850 / S70 Turbo B5234T, B5254T, Head gasket replacement, valve replacement.

 

Did you use new head bolts? Most bolts, especially head bolts, that have degree turns are one use bolts. If you did not replace the bolts then the loss of tension you felt may have been the bolt stretching to the point of near breaking. If this is the case then they will not hold any proper torque.

 

ssicarman, yes I used new brand name bolts.I installed them with a degree gauge but I had to improvise a bit.

 

After much frustration I took the water pump off. I found all of the plastic vanes were broken. That explains the reason for the PO having to do a new head gasket. Too bad no one took the time to diagnose why it failed.

I hope the new water pump will solve the over heating.

 

Lol, that stinks. I had one that the propeller totally fell off. I'm sorry but for some reason I assumed that you replaced all of the timing belt parts.

Just checking but did that make one of the radiator hoses a lot cooler than the other?

I'm so glad that you pulled that wanted pump.

 

Read through your first post again and the guy that sold you the car had to have lied to you. It is very rare to find a car with bent valves and a bad water pump.

I think what actually happened was, he purchased the car with a blown head gasket (resulted from the bad water pump). Then he replaced the head and put the timing belt on wrong and busted the valves. Then decided that he'd better cut bait because he didn't know what he was doing. I have a hard time believing that a new water pump would loose it's blades like that. That's just me.

 

Anything is possible. He was an older gentleman.,much like myself. He claimed he owned it for 3 months before the HG went. I think whoever replaced the HG tried to diagnose the overheating. The rad looks brand new with absolutely no corrosion. He probably figured he found the overheating cause and replaced the rad. If he had driven the car at all with a bad WP he would've seen overheating although he stated he only stayed close to home. Where he lives is quite flat. I believe whoever did the HG did not tighten down the VVT fully, probably because they didn't have a proper cam lock. That in turn caused the cam to turn bending the valves. The shop that did the head pointed out that usually they have to replace the valve guides in that situation. Because the guides were still ok they assumed it did not fail while being driven but probably trying to start. This is again consistent with what he told me.

When it's running I'll scoot over to his place. I traded my wife's 2000 Taurus for it. You tell me who got the better deal !?? Stupid POS Taurus.

A new WP at the dealer was $160 +tax (~$180). I ordered one online for about $100 with shipping and tax. It should arrive soon.

Thank for your interest in my gong show. I have to head out and pick up a new coil over piece now. Of course 1 unit failed .It was working fine until I removed it to check the plugs.

 

Wow those water pumps are more than I'm use to. I think I paid $58 for one for a 960 last month.

 

Rockauto has the same WP as the dealer (Aisin) for $62 + $30 shipping to me. The shipping could take a lot longer since it has to go thru customs for a sniff test Plus the obligatory ."Hey, let's gouge this putz". The joys of living in Canada.

 

No impeller on the water pump would explain things. If you can't get coolant circulation then things will over heat in a hurry.
I once did a used car inspection on a VW Golf that would peg the temp in short order. Took a while to diagnosis to the water pump because loosing the impeller is not something that you would normally expect to see. On the Golf the impeller cracked in half off of the shaft so there was no plastic at all on the shaft.