I'm on my fourth Volvo, a '94 940 wagon with 180k miles on it, and just had a major service performed. I've kept up with the preventative maintenance on the car; replaced radiator, shocks, struts, all fluids and so forth. While it has been somewhat expensive to keep this car on the road, since I don't do my own work, but at least with one of these old cars there's enough info out there that an owner knows what to expect. This last service, along with a new set of tires, should keep the car going for another 50k miles.

But the newer cars have really caught my eye. They're so gorgeous so I'm keeping my eye on Craigslist. But the ones I can afford are starting to get some miles accumulated; I need some framework to anticipate what would be involved if I were to buy one.

So the purpose of this post is to solicit information from those who are familiar with the post-2003 V70 FWD and AWD cars. I'm kind of assuming that any car I see for sale with something like 80K, 100K or 130K miles is facing a major service. Ok, that's not a deal breaker, but what should I expect? If I'm lucky enough to find a car with complete maintenance records, that's a start, but even a well-maintained car will need a major service periodically. So what is involved in such a major service on one of these cars? I'd appreciate a comparison between the FWD and AWD models and, for those who are having the work done by a shop, typical costs...

As a baseline comparison my "major" tune-up including timing and accessory belts, hoses, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, etc is going to set me back around $1000, but that will not include changing all my fluids or brakes, as both of those were done in the last couple of years.

My thinking is that all cars need oil changes, and brakes every couple of years, and, if you keep one long enough it will need plugs, wires, etc about every 90-100K miles. And timing belts, usually. Those items are to be expected, so I'm mostly curious about potential problems or surprises. For example a friend recently told me about the expense of having his i-force V10 tuned up (Ford F-150, I think) that required some kind of expensive electronic part (~$100 ea.) for every spark plug when he did a major tune-up. Those parts alone cost $1000 so I'm guessing his major service would have cost a couple of thousand dollars.

Anything like this on the V70s? And, if you keep on top of the fluid changes on the AWD systems, do those thing keep going for upwards of 200K miles? Or can they be predicted to require expensive repairs?

Thanks, in advance, for any information any of you can share. I hope the purpose of this post is clear enough.

 

You may want to cruise over to www.Cars.com and read some reviews. Not sure if anyone here is in the mood to write the report that is sounds like you are looking for.

 

I have 2005 & 2003 XC70 AWD wagons. I researched the model & years for the most common, inherent problems on various volvo forums. Only, after buying the 1st. I found up to 7 recurrent issues by customers. Some key issues, some lesser ones. I have experienced & read that the 01-03, possibly 04 year range have AW transmission solenoid issues. The gears don't shift correctly; they lurch. Some required solenoid box rebuilds; others were software upgrades, or both. A 2nd issue is faulty instrumentation cluster circuit boards. Others may swear by earlier years; I have the 2nd G (01-03) & 3rd G (04-07). I tuned up both & get 28mph Highway & 18mph City. This series is much heavier than earlier models. My personal favorite is the 1994-95 940T wagon that you own. I've had 3; 92/93/94. I clocked over 300K miles before changing cars. Ever 100-125K, I'd rebuild the suspension components & regular/preventative maintenance. Tires at 45-50K, brakes at 75-80K, etc. Research the forums & you'll find the more prevalent issues mentioned. The XC70's are incredibly comfortable on long trips, handle great, equipped w. modern accessories, sleek styling, great rear deck room for cargo. However, with newer improvements, they're computer driven & require more specialized tools. Plus w. FWD technology, the engine bay is so compacted. The maintenance is more complex, but they're designed to last. They're also equipped w. heavier suspension, due to its greater weight. Like any vehicle, if its maintained correctly, it will last. Volvo's are a testament to this fact.

 

Thanks Phil. The information you've provided is very helpful - thank you very much. Much more useful than other, less descriptive comments I've read. With your comments I'm in a much better position to ask questions of previous owners and of mechanics, dealers and shops.

Am I right to assume that any such issues with the transmission will be readily apparent? That is, if I test drive a car and the transmission shifts smoothly then everything is ok? Or do you know if these problems manifest themselves on an intermittent basis, i.e. "I drove it home and after a couple of cold mornings it started to lurch at lower speeds"?

Also, is the SW problem one that stays fixed, once it is fixed?

Anybody have any idea what a AW transmission solenoid rebuild costs? or the SW fix?

 

Hey there

I have a 2003 V70 2.5T AWD (not XC70) which I have owned since new and 108K miles. Very generally, I would say the build quality on the car is exceptional. This includes the interior after my wife shuttling two boys around everywhere for 8 years. The leather wears like iron and everything looks as new. Unfortunately, I cannot say the same for our 2008 Toyota Highlander.

Typically, I have the car serviced twice a year and keep up with fluid changes (incl Mobil 1 5W-30 synthetic oil). In no particular order, here are issues I have.
Front brake pads last about 30k miles. Front rotors last 60K. However, at my last change I used ceramic brake pads which are on track to last 60k miles. Best part of ceramic pads is almost zero brake dust.
Rear brake pads last about 40k miles. Rear rotors last 80K.
Front sway bar links, tie rod ends and control arm bushings are weak and need periodic replacement (30K on the sway bar links, 60K on the others)
Still running original struts and shocks with no issues.
Replaced right front upper spring seat at 107K miles for $375
At 43K miles I had the infamous "shift flare" issue between 2-3rd gears. Dealer did a fluid change and SW upgrade under warranty. No further issues. I suspect a car with 100k+ miles either had it fixed already or will not experience the issue.
I also drained and refilled ATF at 100K even though Volvo says it is lifetime fill. Note, Volvo gets $20+ per quart (need 11-12 quarts). You can buy the same spec ATF from Mobil (JWS 3309) or Toyota Type IV for $5/quart.
Bleed brake fluid every 2 years
Flush cooling system every 60K
60K miles replace spark plugs
Replaced timing belt and water pump at 7 years (80.8K miles, $1,100))
93K miles replace faulty (leaking) power steering pump reservoir (known weak point) and replace upper engine torque mount ~$550).
100K miles replace right rear wheel hub assembly ~$525. This led to severely "cupped" tires which had to be replaced.
Currently running Continental Extreme Contact DWS tires which are all season tires rated very high in snow (we live in CT).
101K miles replace lower transmission torque mount (DIY about $10)
Also, the brake booster has developed a "hissing" vacuum leak just above my feet in the foot well. A new brake booster is ~$700 installed. But, it does not impact performance and I plan to fix this with a $5 tube of RTV sealant tomorrow.

I haven't changed the other driveline fluids and wondered about this. There are three in the AWD system
-Bevel gear case (a part of the tranny) (API GL-5 75W-90 Fully Synthetic)
-Transfer case (Haldex case) (Specific Oil for the AWD Clutch, Volvo PN 1161641 superseded by 30759648/ 31325136)
-Rear differential (API GL-5 SAE80W)

Good luck. These are great cars which require some money in the 75K to 100K mile range but, after that I expect will go strong to 200K.

Overall, the car is outstanding. It suffers from turbo lag off the line but, is deceivingly fast when making passing moves.

Bob
PS: original factory battery still going strong after 10 years
PPS: unfortunately requires hi-test fuel. I get ~20.5 mpg around town.

 

My maintenance schedule is very similar to RJSV70's. First, locate all the receipts that came w. the car for tracking service maintenance. When I buy a Volvo out of state up North (Live in SW FL), I get the dealer service records for the car. Plus download CarFax report. Now I know what has/hasn't been serviced/repaired. 2nd: shifting issue. When the transmission fluid is either low or viscosity is compromised, it affects the shifting. Check the level & color. When in doubt (dark color) flush out completely. On my 940T swagons, I changed out at 30K miles routinely. I like ceramic brake pads. They're quiet & smooth, but I only get 25-35K miles on Front Disks. When living out-of-state 2 yrs ago, I had the 03 XC70 transmission repaired; it was the solenoid box that went & needed rebuilding w/a modified, aftermarket box (the shop's arrangement, due to the OEM AW clearance issue). It solved the shifting issue, either direction, immediately. However, this repair pointed out that all the front engine mounts needed replacing. The old mounts had worn at 125K & there was play or slack when driving/stopping. I get most brand name POL (Petroleum/Oil/ Lubricants) at Walmart for half the cost at other retail stores.
Ex: 5Qts of Mobile-1 is +/-$26.97 Individually, each is $7 or $8.
On both cars bought, they each had the original Volvo Spark Plugs in & were completely worn down. Same with the Cabin Filters-never changed.
I'm originally from SW CT (Fairfield Cnty) & found a great foreign automotive parts place, which has now expanded considerably. I buy from them regularly, almost exclusively. I've known the staff for 12 years & any issue I've had, they've resolved it 110 percent. Each CSR staff is 2yr automotive school trained/graduate or is in-progress, completing the program. One staff is a journey level, 8 yrs w. a Volvo Service dealership in CT. Rarely can I recommend a business, but this is 1 of 2 that qualifies; Foreign Car Parts (FCP) Groton, CT. The other being IPD, Portland, OR. Phil

 

I missed responding to your last few questions. Q1: My transmission solenoid repair was $1450. at a transmission only shop. It was out of state & I thought that they were capable of fixing an oil leak on my 2002 V40 swagon. The shop is just outside New Orleans, LA. The state that is historically known for corruption,
graft & bribery. They misdiagnosed the repair, damaged the exhaust camshaft, had me buy a new OEM CVVT solenoid, charged me 3x the cost for an exhaust cam gear, then sealed the valve cover back with the damaged camshaft & charged me $800. I brought the car home to FL & had it repaired correctly. The new exhaust camshaft was $320, (4) new seals & timing belt $110, engine oil
$35 & $400 labor (cheap-6 hours+). I've filed w. the State of LA BBB & Attorney Generals Office for fraudulent business practice. They also cut one turbo hose line. Plus said the leak was from the in/outtake turbo line seals/gaskets.
Also, check the engine/transmission mounts while on a lift. There are (4).
Look for obvious wear & play (movement) in the mounts.
Q2: If the transmission solenoid is good or rebuilt, the Software (SW) upgrade should last 75-100K or more, I suspect. Check the dealer/ independent service maintenance records you have on this vehicle.
Then, call FCP Groton #1-877-634-0063 and ask for Jason. He'll know the answer better on the SW upgrade & can give you advice on the transmission issue, once you've briefed him w. the specifics. Phil

 

AFAIK this is the best, most comprehensive & useful sharing of preventative maintenance & sustainability repairs yet compiled on the V70. Thanks, thanks, thanks. Sounds like they are built pretty solid but repairs and maintenance is approximately three times the cost of keeping a red block running - more frequent brakes and much more expensive timing belt/water pump replacement. The comment about the interiors of the cars is encouraging, as I've read some negative comments on cars.com from someone who had a lot of problems with their 2008 with breaking of interior plastic parts.

Lots of food for thought.

 

My wife and I have been researching both the xc 70 and xc 90. The 90 came off our list pretty fast after reading some of the reviews and finally after driving one with 100k on it. Too many buttons for a minimalst.
Now the xc 70 on the other hand seemed more like a Volvo and with a little reading and checking a few out in the area we bought one tonight. A 2003 one owner with 170k, every maintainence record from new, and a near spotless interior and exterior. I've never bought a volvo before it was 10 years old, and never less than 150k. I think the most imporatant thing to do, is find one that looks like the owners cared about it, and get documentation showing it's been properly maintained.
Good Luck
Fossil...

 

fossilvolvo,

Did you ever replace the struts or shocks on any of your 150K+ miles Volvos?

Bob

 

Bob,
Not on this model yet. I replaced them on all my 940T/740T wagons
On the XC70s, I've left that project for later.
The springs are extremely HD & although the struts wear out at 100-150K,
the springs keep it intact without bouncing or grounding out.
I replaced the outer tie-rods, lower ball joints, anti-sway bar links & neoprene strut rod bushings. Only the strut assembles & possibly the springs are left.
This car weighs in at 4500 lbs, it's like a battle tank, everything is secure
& rides great on the highway or city. After tuning-up, I get 27.5-28MPH on the highway. But you must use the cruise control as its more efficient that the foot in regulating the car's speed.And, while on cruise control, you use the plus(+) or minus(-) to increase or decrease the speed. Not braking & accelerating w. your foot.
I also replaced the rear muffler/tail pipe last summer.
Plus, flushed/refilled the auto transmission, power steering & coolant then.
I change the oil every 4K miles methodically w. filter. I use Mobile 1 multigrade high mileage 5qt oil jugs from Walmart-cheapest location $28 for 5qts.
I replaced the brake pads as well.
On the next brake service, I'll either turn the rotors or probably replace them.
I alternate rotor replacement every other brake pad change. I get 100-125 miles from the rotors, before discarding & installing new ones.
It's a good idea to pay the $10 & buy the oil wrench from FCP Groton for this model. No shop has the correct metric size oil filter wrench for this car, except the dealer.
I bought the car used from a NJ dealer who lied about nearly everything.
I bought it from Ebay over the internet w. photos, but not closeups.
Always check the seller's rating, before even looking at their inventory.
I replaced the tires upon arrival w. Michelin 215R
Then the instrument cluster rebuilt & corrected the error codes too.
The display failed intermittently-a common fault on this model.
The battery was the 1st to fail on receiving it.
I use a Sear Die-Hard International replacement routinely.
The transmission had been 2/3 rebuilt before I received it.
But, the transmission, coming off the auto transporter, would lurch in any gear. I spent $1450 having the solenoid unit rebuilt, better than original.
The shop contracts out & builds its own casing which is larger & more efficient than OEM.
I bought additional interior pieces like matching floor mats, rear cargo mat,
rear cargo plastic tray insert & rear cargo retractible cover, plus others.
I usually buy a front nose bra/cover, but haven't researched that item yet.
Wolfe was the only mfr that I'd found in the past that makes a fitted one.
Phil

 

I would love to hear more about the transmission solenoid rebuild. Who did it, etc.... I've drained and replaced tranny fluid at 50K miles and 100K miles (pushing 110K now). The dealer also did a software upgrade under warranty back at 45K miles to remedy the known 2-3 shift "flare".

My car very occasionally experiences a cold shift lurch from R to P (after backing out of the garage in the morning). But, it happens only when the temp is below 40* and the car has been sitting for more than 12 hours. And even then, it happens very randomly. When I added a bit more tranny fluid, it seemed to get better but, it still happens once in a blue moon.

Which, btw, checking the tranny fluid level on this car is less than straight forward.

Thanks

Bob

 

I'm not familiar w. the AIFJK acronym,but would like to learn & research it.
I'd steer clear of the XC90. It has nice looks & comfort, but is a T6 engine (6 cyl).
It also gets very lousy gas mileage & I believe is more expense to repair.
I want to drive the vehicle, not tie it up in the shop continually.
If I buy another XC70, it will be 2005-07 model (T5/5 cyl). 2007 is the last year of this body style. in 2008, it was redesigned. The looks are ok, but they added a larger engine which isn't necessary & heavier. Looks can be deceiving. By 2005-07, Volvo had the majority of issues resolved. No car is fail-proof, but the XC70 originating in 1999. The 99-00 were disasters. The 01 was slightly better. By 03-04, most of the problems were solved & the engine was dramatically improved. All automatic transmissions are Asien-
Warner built in japan. The japanese are good at imitating products, but it's not in their culture to be innovative. They'll copy a design & improve upon it. This ideology follows suit in most Asian countries. So, by 05-07, this model is relatively solid & reliable & the last of the powerful T5 in-line (transverse) engines. In my belief, having a T6/6cyl engine is overkill. The 5 cal has plenty of power,plus the turbo-charge capability.
I personally can't justify having the weight/power/torque of the T6/6cyl engine. The original 99-00 engines were T4/4 cylinder. You decide whats best for your needs.
Phil
Yes, when you test drive any XC70 model, you'll know immediately if it has transmission problems. If the solenoid is weak/bad, the car will lurch from any gear, forward or reverse. Once I had that repaired at a transmission specialty shop, I noticed I still a motion issue, but not the trans. All my engine/trans motor mounts were bad, especially the upper engine mount. It's rubber mounted in a metal casing & I could see the rubber wear visibly. Too much slack. i spent 2-3 hours at the military auto craft shop & replaced them on a lift. The lower was time-consuming because their wasn't enough distance to re-isert the new one. I had to keep adjusting the engine mount stands height to eventually squeeze it back into place.

I don't have turbo lag on mine. The 03/05 XC70 accelerate from a dead sot fine.
i believe that issue is a fuel related; not clean rail, fuel pump, relay or sensor. I have downgraded to mid-grade fuel 89% octane. Newer volvos aren't required to use high-test 93% octane.
The XC70 model vs. V70 is considerably heaver. especially the suspension package.
It weighs in at a dry weight of +/- 4200-4550 lbs. depending on the accessory packages;
comfort, touring, winter, etc. The springs & shocks/struts are HD.
I believe the V70 is 800-1000 lbs lighter & with different/lighter suspension, plus non-turbo charged & not AWD.
By now you've had time to contact FCP Groton for Volvo OEM/aftermarket parts.
Phil

 

I just realized that I didn't answer all your questions.
I changed my transmission fluid every 30K on my 940T/740T''s
I had Midas do change the fluid this time (discounted-I know the Mgr).
I'll have to check the shop manual to see the interval change time.
The only place I could locate a Haynes repair manual was the British version of the V70 which is a hard back version (less turbo/AWD/body trim/HD suspension+ R/H drive
The shop uses a custom made solenoid housing, made by another firm.
They said the AW trans housing was too small & caused problems.
Ironically, I checked the VIN & the transmission had already been rebuilt, just not the solenoid housing.
The transmission shop is in New Orleans. They can repair trans, but nothing else.
I had them work on my 02 V40 wagon for an engine oil leak.

They committed serious fraud on this repair. They serious damaged the exhaust camshaft, had me buy a new cam gear & charged me 3x my cost, CVVT solenoid-I bought, sliced a turbo line & said they'd fixed the leak but it had another on the in/outtake turbo lines.
The charged me $800 & it ran worse than when I brought it there. I had to fix the car here in FL. Total, it cost me $985 to correctly fix it. I had to buy a new Volvo Ex Camshaft for $320, oil seals/gasket (4), timing belt ($110), Labor $450, transporting it 830 mile home, plus other components. LA is definitely the most corrupt state in the US.
The last 3 governors & 2 city mayors have been convicted of bribery/steering contracts
& are in prison. 1 House Rep-Jefferson, is going to prison. His home was raided & found $96K in his freezer. Enough on this topic.

Your trans jumps when the temperature is cold. You must live in a cold weather state.
Volvo & aftermarkets make engine block heaters, possibly transmission pre-heaters.
Although it only jumps in Park to Reverse
1. Check the trans fluid level when the engine is cold, not frozen.
2. Check the motor/transmission mounts for wear.
By 110K it's time to replace them. If you have access to a lift, do so.
sitting in the car, the trans is on the L/H side. Check that mount to the frame
The top & lower mounts are the ones that go out first.
The top mount is in full view. The lower can be seen looking underneath.
Yes, the trans fluid dipstick is not easily accessible.
You'll notice the transmission slippage from a dead stop, it will lurch hard.
If your car is under extended warranty, have it checked.
If not, then ask about any other software upgrades.
It's odd that it only lurches at cold temps & in one direction.
Phil