PERTRONIX ELECTRONIC IGNITOR NUMBER
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PERTRONIX ELECTRONIC IGNITOR NUMBER
This might be a real tuff one. I'm looking to install a pertronix electric ignitor in my 1964 Volvo P1800s with a distributor number of Volvo 418276. I contact several Pertronix dealers and they do not have a number to match my distributor. Has anyone ever installed an ignitor in their 60-65 P1800 and if so, what ignitor number did you use. They seem to have the ignitors for 1966 and newer (I'm guessing fuel injected) but not the older carburated models. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Joined: Nov 2007
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RE: PERTRONIX ELECTRONIC IGNITOR NUMBER
On the one hand, I should be able to tell you, since I used to use the same setup in my 122 wagon with B20. On the other hand, when I had undiagnosible ignition problems, I ditched it in favor of the old points. I find that the stock set-up is remarkably reliable and trouble-free, and if it does give trouble, the symptoms are transparent enough to allow for quick and easy diagnosis.
Actually, mine is not exactly box stock. I picked a common GM coil from the early 70s (one that says "for use with external resistor", actually a 6 volt coil), and the ballast resistor and condensor for the same model.When the starter is engaged, current to the coil is routed past the ballast resistor, so that the coil gets 12 volts instead of the 6 it's designed for, so I get a really hot, fat spark to start with. As soon as the starter is released, current to the coil is routed through the ballast resistor, so that the points live a long and happy life.
When I replace the points, I gap them a little on the wide side, so that as the little cam followers' corners wear off, the gap doesn't get too small right away. After about 500 miles, I check the gap again and give it it's final adjustment. That usually lasts about 60,000 miles, at which point it's time to replace them.
I also keep a spare distributor and a half inch stubby wrench in the car. When the points start to give trouble, it's a simple matter (two clips on the distributor cap, one wire, and two bolts)to pull the ailing distributor and swap in the new one, which has already been timed. I can then replace the points in the first distributor at my leisure.
Actually, mine is not exactly box stock. I picked a common GM coil from the early 70s (one that says "for use with external resistor", actually a 6 volt coil), and the ballast resistor and condensor for the same model.When the starter is engaged, current to the coil is routed past the ballast resistor, so that the coil gets 12 volts instead of the 6 it's designed for, so I get a really hot, fat spark to start with. As soon as the starter is released, current to the coil is routed through the ballast resistor, so that the points live a long and happy life.
When I replace the points, I gap them a little on the wide side, so that as the little cam followers' corners wear off, the gap doesn't get too small right away. After about 500 miles, I check the gap again and give it it's final adjustment. That usually lasts about 60,000 miles, at which point it's time to replace them.
I also keep a spare distributor and a half inch stubby wrench in the car. When the points start to give trouble, it's a simple matter (two clips on the distributor cap, one wire, and two bolts)to pull the ailing distributor and swap in the new one, which has already been timed. I can then replace the points in the first distributor at my leisure.
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122s, 1964, 418276, b20, distributor, distributors, electronic, ignition, ignitor, install, installation, pertronix, trouble, volvo, vovlo
