Until now, the brakes on my 2010 XC60 T6 AWD were covered by the 60,000 mile warranty.

A reputable independent mechanic says I now need to replace rear brake pads and rotors— $550 all in. (He says the rotors are “dished.”)

The local Volvo dealer was offering a free brake check, so I took them up on it. The dealer says I need to replace the rear brake pads ($210 all in), but that the rotors are fine! I asked the dealer about the “dished” rotors. He said there is plenty left on those rear rotors.

Normally, I would expect the dealer to be gouging me, and the independent to be the cost-saving alternative. This time, the situation is reversed.

What should I do? If I have them do the pads only, am I being penny-wise, pound-foolish?

 

Ask for the measurements and specs.

I don't know why everyone assumes the dealer is dishonest and an indy shop is honest. It comes down to the tech, not where he works. If a tech is a scanner at a dealer, he will be a scanner at an indy shop and vice versa.

 

My question is a really basic one about the mechanics/physics of disc brakes. Is it normal to put new pads on slightly-dished rotors?

 

There are minimum thickness specs and minimum thickness at pad replacement specs. I doubt they are actually "dished". If they are smooth and above spec, pads are fine.

 

Thanks for your replies.
For the record, the mileage is at 75,000.
The pads are at 3 mm. They didn't mention a rotor thickness measurement.

 

Most won't because customers generally don't care. I wish more did, it would stop the scammers.

 

I am obviously a total piker, but I would put a new pad with any rear rotor imaginable, if it wasn't too thin. There's more swept area on a damaged rotor than a good one. When the pads clamp down on that rotor, the car will stop. I have never heard of "dished" rotors, but when it comes to rotor shape, that is only a problem if it worries you, the driver. If it shakes the brake pedal, and you don't like that, then you would be the one to decide that you want them replaced. That is my opinion. I fix my own cars, always, so I am always making decisions from the perspective of a driver.

 

I realize now that I should have been more precise in my original question.
One more time, and then I will stop hounding you guys…!

- What is the expected lifespan (in miles) of rear brake pads?
- What is the expected lifespan (in miles) of rear brake rotors?
- If I put new pads on, without replacing the dished rotors, will the pads conform to the rotor shape, so that, when I do need to replace the rotors, I will have to replace the pads too? (Or will it be time to replace the pads anyway?)

 

Lifespan totally depends on driving. I've seen pads last 25k and I've seen them last 60k or more.

Generally, if the rotor isn't damaged, you can do two sets of pads to one rotor. When changing the pads the second time, the rotor is usually below minimum thickness at pad replacement.

In my opinion, the indy shop just wanted to sell some rotors. Pads only should be fine if the rotors are above specs.

 

My 2010 AWD T6 is making a weird grunt noise in the back right wheel. The dealer said it was time to change the brakes but my indy guy said I still had plenty of pad left. But now this noise is happening at slow stops. It sounds like I'm rubbing against a curb - you know that sound the rubber makes as it rubs the concrete. That's it exactly and it's only the right rear. The mechanic still thinks the pads look fine but thinks that something may have gotten under the pad since there's a bit of a scar on the rotor. Has anyone experienced this?

 

Has he removed the wheel to check the inner pad? Its pretty common for the inner one to wear faster. So if he just peeks in through the spokes, he won't see it.