Sorry if this topic has been covered before, but it seems that every where I look the instructions vary a bit. Basically I need to do my rear brake pads and rotors. I already have the new pads & rotors but upon doing another quick search to make sure I have all my bases covered, one poster suggested that you would need the hardware kit as well (http://www.fcpgroton.com/images/084-0923.jpg). Today is the only day I have free to do this until next weekend, it's calling for rain all week and I do need the car to drive to work.

Also, some posters have mentioned about collapsing the calipers, how do I do this and is it a requirement or is it just to ensure ample room to install the new pads? One final question, no where do I see any instructions on how to put the new rotors on. Is there anything I need to do with the e-brake or should they just slide back on with a little leverage? Do I need to clean, adjust or lube anything to do this? TIA!!

 

Welcome to the forum, I hope you find it useful & enjoyable.

As to the rear brakes, I personally would replace the hardware kit. They're cheap, and ensure proper tension. Mine was corroded so badly that they crumbled off.

In order to remove the old disks, you have to remove the caliper. Be careful, as one person broke off the head of the bolt and he had to resort to power tools I believe. Spray plenty of PB Blaster the day before you work on it. You will also need new caliper bolts, if you care about safety. Also, there is a locating pin on the disks, which is 10mm. Remove it as well and the disk should slide off.

Yes, the pistons have to be pushed back in order toallow the new pads in. You can do this with either piston-push tool (can be rented at an auto parts shop such as AutoZone) or large Vise-grip with old pad in place. Work slowly.

Make sure to replace the pad shims with "half-size" version, as the original full-size shims are noted for making noise. Also, I would recommend that you apply either silicone or molybdenum-based grease onto every metal-to-metal contact surfaces, EXCEPT the friction surfaces (generic brake quiet compound won't do any good on Volvos). One personsaid that "no fancy grease is necessary". However, as far as my 850 goes, it was the CV-joint grease (moly-based) that stopped high-pitch squeal for good (and I did use the half-size shims. The original shimsusually cause low-pitch drone, but the half-size shimscaused high-pitch squeal on my 850).

Putting the new rotors on is simple; just slide them onto the hub and hold them with the 10mm locating pin. You do not have to mess with the parking brake, unless the shoes are worn to the limit.

Lastly, I would suggest that you replace the brake fluid as well. Brake fluid should be replaced at every 2 to 3 years.

I hope you bought OEM pads & rotors. If not, I would return them and order OEM parts. Trust me on this.

I hope this would be some use for you.


JPN

 

I don't know if PB is the same makeup as WD-40, but I was told to never use this on your brakes. I forget why though. [:@][:@]

But it's an Easy job.

Edit: I think it's because if you get it on your rotor or w/e, your brakes will slip, reducing braking power.

Double edit: As to buying, looks like you are buying from FCP. Check Eeuroparts too and see if you can get a better price.

Go OEM pads since they'll have less dust, and for rotors, get regular rotors, not cross drilled or anything of the sort. I got Brembo rotors just because it is Brembo ha.

 

Hi Jimmy,

PB Blaster, as far as I know, is pretty much the same stuff as WD-40, except that it seems to be more effective on rusted parts.

Whoever said not to use it on the brakes is probably due to some harms done to the flexible brake hose or pad surface. But it only needs to be sprayed at the caliper bolts, and you can cover overspray with a paper towel, etc to keep it from getting onto the pads. If some spray gets on the rotor/pad surfaces or brake hose, simply spray clean them with a can of brake cleaner.

OEM pads actually create more dusts than cheap aftermarket pads. If you observe, you'll notice that many European cars have dusty front wheels due to OEM pads' wearing.

I bought Brembo myself and was somewhat disappointed; they were not made in Italy and didn't have new caliper bolts. Next time, I'll probably go with Zimmermann or ATE.


JPN

 

OEM PADS!!!!!! I used Aftermarket pads and had to remove and replace with OEM Jurid because the 850 sounded like a city bus! Dogs came running from miles around at the sound of the squeal.

You can buy the OEM Brake grease at the dealer $8 for a tube, it is well worth it. Yes make sure you use the newer shims that are cut in half. I only inspect the front caliper bolts and replace if needed. The rear hardware kit is a MUST. The OEM stuff with fall apart when you change pads. It is not a good idea to re-use the rear pad pins. Since they rely on tension to stay in.

One Note: It might be a good idea, depending on Mileage to replace the front wheel bearings and outer CV boots all at the same time. I did this and found that the car had a much quieter ride. The wheel bearing must have been on its way out.

FCP Grotons boot kit includes inner, outer boots, tranny oil seal, etc. Get the wheel bearing kit that includes the caliper bracketand bearing bolts.

I have had Zimmerman Cross-Drilled on my VW Jetta for 3 years, they are awesome and did make a MAJOR improvement in stopping distance. Also, (it might be my imagination) but I swear the pads have lasted longer. It also helps in the wet and snow because there is somewhere for the water to go.

Next time the 850 needs brakes I am going with Zimmerman.

 

^I've heard a couple people say this, but I think it's all in their head because it defies physics.

1. The drills cut down surface area. When you see them on the performance cars, they can get away with it, because they make up for this loss by having larger rotors.
2. If you think about the pads going accross a hole, it will cut down pad life.

I will admit that they look pretty good, but I don't think they will help braking.

Edit: I hear the new OEM pads come with the shims built in now...