black exhaust smoke
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Joined: Jul 2007
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black exhaust smoke
My 96 850 wagon with 176,000 miles just started running roughly and then emitting black smoke from the exhaust after startup, and then the check engine light came on. Is this going to be expensive?
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 5,340
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From: IPS, MA
RE: black exhaust smoke
Hi Seeclick,
I'msorry aboutthe problem.
Black smoke usually indicates that the fuel to air mixture is too rich (more fuel is fed into the engine than is required). With the info you provided, all I can think of is that the car only needs tune up (I'll attach a URL link + copy & paste from one useful thread), and CELwas probably triggered by O2sensor.
First thing I recommend is to visit a local auto parts shop thatdoes free diagnostic service (AutoZone does this service), and have the diagnostic codesread with a hand-held scanner. This should tell you a lot about the problem. I personally buy a quart of oil or some consumables after this service is done just for courtesy but it's just me.
See below (taken from: https://volvoforums.com/m_48928/tm.htm):
ROUTINE TUNE-UP ITEMS:
1. *Spark Plugs (Genuine Volvo, Bosch Platinum +4/Iridium, Champion (Turbo: RC7GYC/NA: RC9YC or Bosch FR6DC), NGK Platinum/Iridium, etc...).
2. Plug Wires (French Bougicord is the OEM, Bosch makes them as well but I went with the OEM).
3. Distributor Cap & Rotor (Bosch is the OEM).
4. Air Filter (MANN is the OEM).
5. Fuel Filter (Bosch is the OEM).
6. Pour a large bottle of Techron fuel system cleaner or equivalent into the fuel tank & fill up with fuel.
7. Clean/service PCV system (different for turbo/non-turbo, as well as vehicle & engine VIN).
8. Serpentine Accessory Drive Belt (Continental Tech is the OEM). Longer belt is recommended.
9. Tyre Rotation (watch out for the rotation direction arrow on the sidewall).
10. Exterior/Interior Light Bulbs.
11. Checking for Transmission Fluid Level & Condition (should be clear red and no burnt smell).
12. Checking for Power Steering Fluid Level.
13. Checking for Brake Fluid Level (replace once every 3 years for maximum safety).
14. Checking for Coolant Level (must not be at MAX mark when cold, it has to be about the middle between MAX & MIN). Should you decide to replace coolant, use high-quality coolant and avoid cheap/generic brands. I use Prestone, as Volvo genuine coolant was $20/gallon. 50/50 will suffice for most regions, but colder regions may require 55/45 or 60/40.
15. Checking for the Condition of Battery (Do multimeter test & S.G test).
16. Cleaning the throttle body (Not sure about the service interval).
The above replacement items have different intervals, some may need replacing soon, some can be deferred until later. Also, it may not be a bad idea to do the alignment, if there is no servicing record. However, if the car runs straight with the hands off the steering, it probably is ok and can be deferred until later.
If the alternator is original, replace it NOW. Even though many alternators on 850's last a very long time, mine failed at 130,000 miles/12 years, and safety factor concerned, 100,000 miles/10 years is about the life for the original alternator. Replace it with a rebuilt/new Bosch (I recommend rebuilt Bosch with lifetime warranty; I got mine from Pep-Boys, about $220). Keep the original alternator (the one you take off) as a backup. If the alternator dies while you're driving, you will lose power assistance to the steering & brakes. Since Volvo's are very heavy, consider how much effort is required to navigate the car without the engine running, especially for females. In some situations, it could be lethal. You can save mere $240 or so, but would you leave yourself or yourloved ones in a situation like this? I wouldn't. And cars often break down at the worst time & locations. If the age of battery is unknown and the tests show poor results, I would replace the battery as well (I personally like Interstate Battery).
SMOKE CHART:
Here's a quick chart for the colour of smoke from the tail pipe:
Blue: Burning engine oil.
White: Normal water vapour, or coolant is entering the combustion chamber (should have coolant odor).
Dark gray/Black: A/F mixture too rich, fuel/emissions control problem or time for a good tune-up. Also, diesel engines sometimes put out black smoke and it's normal for them.
Other colours: Improper additives in the fuel/oil, or just a poor quality fuel.
Lastly, the old adage "You get what you pay for" absolutely applies to maintaining Volvo, so when it comes to parts, you want to go with OEM or of higher quality. For complex problems, it pays to go to Volvo dealer/shops that specialise in Swedish/European cars, even though they charge more than other average town garages.
*Note on Spark Plugs:
Bosch Platinum +2 seems to have poor reputation, though I myself never had trouble with them. However, Bosch Platinum +4 and NGK Iridium seem to have excellent reputation. For turbo (B5234T), Champion RC7GYC is specified, whereas Bosch FR6DC/Champion RC9YC is specified for non-turbo (B5254S?). The easiest way is to buy genuine Volvo; Turbo $32 (approx)/NA $13 (approx).
Platinum plugs are pre-gapped andre-gapping is generally unnecessary. If re-gapped, the center electrode may be damaged. Never drop a plug onto the floor/ground. Platinum plugs do not require cleaning, as they are designed to self-clean, and are generally good for 60,000 miles/100,000kms. Upon installation, apply anti-seize compound on top few threads (closer to the hex), hand-tighten (extension bar may be used) until tight, then tighten an additional 1/4 turn for gasket-type or 1/8-1/16 turn for non-gasket type, or use a torque wrench to specified torque. Refer to service manual for specific procedure for your engine. Replace plugs only when the engine is cold.
Some selections at FCP Groton:
http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvo850tuneup.htm
I hope this helps. Best of luck,
JPN
P.S: Should you have other questions, I suggest that you post them in the 850 forum; people there are extremely knowledgeable. Also, the general forums area is kind of gaunt and you may not receive reply right away.
I'msorry aboutthe problem.
Black smoke usually indicates that the fuel to air mixture is too rich (more fuel is fed into the engine than is required). With the info you provided, all I can think of is that the car only needs tune up (I'll attach a URL link + copy & paste from one useful thread), and CELwas probably triggered by O2sensor.
First thing I recommend is to visit a local auto parts shop thatdoes free diagnostic service (AutoZone does this service), and have the diagnostic codesread with a hand-held scanner. This should tell you a lot about the problem. I personally buy a quart of oil or some consumables after this service is done just for courtesy but it's just me.
See below (taken from: https://volvoforums.com/m_48928/tm.htm):
ROUTINE TUNE-UP ITEMS:
1. *Spark Plugs (Genuine Volvo, Bosch Platinum +4/Iridium, Champion (Turbo: RC7GYC/NA: RC9YC or Bosch FR6DC), NGK Platinum/Iridium, etc...).
2. Plug Wires (French Bougicord is the OEM, Bosch makes them as well but I went with the OEM).
3. Distributor Cap & Rotor (Bosch is the OEM).
4. Air Filter (MANN is the OEM).
5. Fuel Filter (Bosch is the OEM).
6. Pour a large bottle of Techron fuel system cleaner or equivalent into the fuel tank & fill up with fuel.
7. Clean/service PCV system (different for turbo/non-turbo, as well as vehicle & engine VIN).
8. Serpentine Accessory Drive Belt (Continental Tech is the OEM). Longer belt is recommended.
9. Tyre Rotation (watch out for the rotation direction arrow on the sidewall).
10. Exterior/Interior Light Bulbs.
11. Checking for Transmission Fluid Level & Condition (should be clear red and no burnt smell).
12. Checking for Power Steering Fluid Level.
13. Checking for Brake Fluid Level (replace once every 3 years for maximum safety).
14. Checking for Coolant Level (must not be at MAX mark when cold, it has to be about the middle between MAX & MIN). Should you decide to replace coolant, use high-quality coolant and avoid cheap/generic brands. I use Prestone, as Volvo genuine coolant was $20/gallon. 50/50 will suffice for most regions, but colder regions may require 55/45 or 60/40.
15. Checking for the Condition of Battery (Do multimeter test & S.G test).
16. Cleaning the throttle body (Not sure about the service interval).
The above replacement items have different intervals, some may need replacing soon, some can be deferred until later. Also, it may not be a bad idea to do the alignment, if there is no servicing record. However, if the car runs straight with the hands off the steering, it probably is ok and can be deferred until later.
If the alternator is original, replace it NOW. Even though many alternators on 850's last a very long time, mine failed at 130,000 miles/12 years, and safety factor concerned, 100,000 miles/10 years is about the life for the original alternator. Replace it with a rebuilt/new Bosch (I recommend rebuilt Bosch with lifetime warranty; I got mine from Pep-Boys, about $220). Keep the original alternator (the one you take off) as a backup. If the alternator dies while you're driving, you will lose power assistance to the steering & brakes. Since Volvo's are very heavy, consider how much effort is required to navigate the car without the engine running, especially for females. In some situations, it could be lethal. You can save mere $240 or so, but would you leave yourself or yourloved ones in a situation like this? I wouldn't. And cars often break down at the worst time & locations. If the age of battery is unknown and the tests show poor results, I would replace the battery as well (I personally like Interstate Battery).
SMOKE CHART:
Here's a quick chart for the colour of smoke from the tail pipe:
Blue: Burning engine oil.
White: Normal water vapour, or coolant is entering the combustion chamber (should have coolant odor).
Dark gray/Black: A/F mixture too rich, fuel/emissions control problem or time for a good tune-up. Also, diesel engines sometimes put out black smoke and it's normal for them.
Other colours: Improper additives in the fuel/oil, or just a poor quality fuel.
Lastly, the old adage "You get what you pay for" absolutely applies to maintaining Volvo, so when it comes to parts, you want to go with OEM or of higher quality. For complex problems, it pays to go to Volvo dealer/shops that specialise in Swedish/European cars, even though they charge more than other average town garages.
*Note on Spark Plugs:
Bosch Platinum +2 seems to have poor reputation, though I myself never had trouble with them. However, Bosch Platinum +4 and NGK Iridium seem to have excellent reputation. For turbo (B5234T), Champion RC7GYC is specified, whereas Bosch FR6DC/Champion RC9YC is specified for non-turbo (B5254S?). The easiest way is to buy genuine Volvo; Turbo $32 (approx)/NA $13 (approx).
Platinum plugs are pre-gapped andre-gapping is generally unnecessary. If re-gapped, the center electrode may be damaged. Never drop a plug onto the floor/ground. Platinum plugs do not require cleaning, as they are designed to self-clean, and are generally good for 60,000 miles/100,000kms. Upon installation, apply anti-seize compound on top few threads (closer to the hex), hand-tighten (extension bar may be used) until tight, then tighten an additional 1/4 turn for gasket-type or 1/8-1/16 turn for non-gasket type, or use a torque wrench to specified torque. Refer to service manual for specific procedure for your engine. Replace plugs only when the engine is cold.
Some selections at FCP Groton:
http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvo850tuneup.htm
I hope this helps. Best of luck,
JPN
P.S: Should you have other questions, I suggest that you post them in the 850 forum; people there are extremely knowledgeable. Also, the general forums area is kind of gaunt and you may not receive reply right away.
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