Engine mounts
Super Moderator
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 9,601
Likes: 540
From: Burlington, VT
depends on which one you want to replace. Generally speaking you have a choice between genuine Volvo, OEM vendor (ie Lemforder), nationally known after market (Meyle) and then parts unknown (in order of quality). You can also find poly bushings - I used IPD's poly bushing for the torque rod bushing (that bracket that goes over the engine) as its an easy install and the original design is suspect. Shop at Volvo friendly stores like FCP Euro and IPD as they provide feedback and ratings as well as showing what's OEM vs after-market. I'd probably stay away from the cheapest part you find from a lesser known supplier - most of the cost is in the labor so trying to save $50 on parts isn't worth the risk of having to redo after 50K miles
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2021
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
depends on which one you want to replace. Generally speaking you have a choice between genuine Volvo, OEM vendor (ie Lemforder), nationally known after market (Meyle) and then parts unknown (in order of quality). You can also find poly bushings - I used IPD's poly bushing for the torque rod bushing (that bracket that goes over the engine) as its an easy install and the original design is suspect. Shop at Volvo friendly stores like FCP Euro and IPD as they provide feedback and ratings as well as showing what's OEM vs after-market. I'd probably stay away from the cheapest part you find from a lesser known supplier - most of the cost is in the labor so trying to save $50 on parts isn't worth the risk of having to redo after 50K miles
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 673
Likes: 14
Generally I try and stay with genuine parts, as a rule the quality is better and mt6127 points out, if you have to redo the job in a year or two you are losing money and time, not saving them.
BUT, you have a 27 year old car, only you know the condition and history but it may only have a year or two left. If it has 400,000 miles on it, seats destroyed, dash crumbled, multiple dents and rust all over the place but it gets you back and forth to school, then the cheap parts may be a better "resource allocation option".
On the flip side, 50.000 mile creampuff that grandma babied until you inherited it and plan on passing it down to the scion of the Dodger clan would certainly rate the best stuff.
Also, the top mount is easy, the others more difficult.
Lastly, the poly bushing will be stiffer, the more you have, the more solidly that engine will be bolted in, you can feel the difference. And some people like it better, just thought I'd warn you,
BUT, you have a 27 year old car, only you know the condition and history but it may only have a year or two left. If it has 400,000 miles on it, seats destroyed, dash crumbled, multiple dents and rust all over the place but it gets you back and forth to school, then the cheap parts may be a better "resource allocation option".
On the flip side, 50.000 mile creampuff that grandma babied until you inherited it and plan on passing it down to the scion of the Dodger clan would certainly rate the best stuff.
Also, the top mount is easy, the others more difficult.
Lastly, the poly bushing will be stiffer, the more you have, the more solidly that engine will be bolted in, you can feel the difference. And some people like it better, just thought I'd warn you,
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post