Hello Fellow Volvo owners! , I have recently run into issues with stalling with my 2003 Volvo V40, at first only at startup and then intermittently when slowing to a idle, then it would stall at times if a floored it, it never showed an engine light except when it stalled and as soon as the ignition was turned off and re-started it would go away, I finally went out and bought a code reader and it spit out a Code for a bad MAF sensor, So I unplugged the MAF and the car ran fine, the is around 10 days ago, since then I have been driving it to work and back because it's my only car, I have the Maf sensor ordered but it won't arrive until the 19th, I thought I would be ok driving it until the replacement arrived but 4 days ago it started stalling when 1st started but once driving it was ok, but the last 2 days it started getting worse and today it won't stay running at all if the RPMs drop below 1000/1200, as soon as you let off the accelerator it instantly plummets and dies, if you try and hurry and rev it while this is happening it chokes out, the reason I'm here is to ask advice regarding the MAF sensor and what else could cause this issue, I'm worried that replacing the sensor isn't going to fix this issue, and I wanted to know if the driving I have done since unhooking the MAF sensor could have caused other issue.

Best Regards: Jeff

 

I'd try reconnecting the MAF sensor and try driving it...noting any changes.
The only thing to do with those is spray them with MAF cleaner and let dry. Might have you damaged it by touching or scraping-to-clean it?

Since my car knowledge is fragmentary at best I would've tried to clean the ETM had I been in your shoes when this started.
Believe it or not, the next thing would've been to do a drain and fill of the automatic transmission (I assume your car is an auto-you provided no info regarding trim level or mileage) to at least see if gritty, black fluid was hanging up the transmission.

The big boys say there's a lot of excess capacity in today's air filters but I would've made sure my car was breathing OK.
I also would've checked all the big air handling hoses and vacuum lines for splits, leaks and detachment.

When was the last time you ran a proper dose of Chevron Techron through the fuel system? Local driving causes crud to build up on the injector nozzles upon shutdown. Use Techron before a stint of local driving not an Interstate trip.

Lots of posts warn against buying an aftermarket MAF as they can be "off-target". Better to score a genuine one from a junkyard.
Do you know the brand of MAF you ordered? Can you cancel the order before it ships thus sparing you the, "We don't allow returns on electric parts" speech?
Better to have the codes read competently at a dealership or independent mechanic with a VIDA.
Ask around for future use. It may take a while to find an indie with a VIDA. Ask your friends or other garages if there's a Volvo mechanic around.

 

Looks like its the Maf sensor and the Variable timing Solenoid, code P0015, P0014, and P00102, about a month a ago I noticed a clicking sound when the car was idling about a week later it stopped and I didn't think anything else of it but thinking back I remember opening the hood and trying to figure out where it was coming from and It was the Vvt atm I didn't know what that was but after reading up, and researching I found that it was the Solenoid making the clicking noise, looks like I can get the Maf sensor and the Solenoid for around 150.00 so that's not to bad and both look easy to replace