Volvo only starts with MAF off.
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Volvo only starts with MAF off.
Hello everyone!
I am new to the forum.
I have a 2002 Volvo S60 2.4t AWD automatic. Engine code is B5244T3, car has about 210k kilometers (130k miles)
Backstory:
I have a problem which was not present when buying the car. About 1 week later, I went to get alignment done on suspension. On the way, I started hearing a hiss sound after braking, got louder, stopped when i pressed brake again. Arrived at alignment place, stopped car, wanted to start again, wouldn't start, only crank and sputter, vibrate a lot, and die.
They read it with proper diagnostics (not vida, but not cheap OBD, it showed all of the actual codes) and it was a crank position sensor, deleted code, car started back up. Got alignment done, went home, all well. Problem returned a week later. I got check engine, car would run, but after stop wouldn't start again. Same as before, sputter, and die. Deleted code with OBD tool (Code is unknown, OBD couldn't display error) all is well.
Car sits for 1 week again. No start. I got VIDA. Connect vida, ECM-1300 MAF flow too low. Not reading anything. Ask for replacement MAF sensors from mechanic who had a volvo, got 4 used ones, he wasn't sure if they were working, most likely no. No start with all of them. 2 of them read no value, 2 of them read something like 100 or even more kg/h.
Unplug MAF, car starts and runs. Not well, it shakes a bit, and dies under heavy acceleration, I have 2 seconds of throttle lag. I went to buy a new MAF, not genuine. Got one, plugged it in, car had very low battery, started to crank, not enough power to start engine. While cranking (and engine not starting) i was reading VIDA it had 12 kg/h reading. I thought finally, I have a working MAF sensor. Also RPM sensor issue popped up again. Could be from low battery? Anyway. Charged the battery the next day, car will not start...... I plugged in VIDA, car is now reading 30kg/h air mass. RPM sensor problem gone.
Current status:
I don't know what the issue could be. I crank, car starts, idles properly without fluctuation for 3 seconds, sputters heavily, shakes, then dies. Won't start back up for a while. VIDA reads 30kg/h air mass at idle. RPM sensor reads properly. I checked the middle (3rd) pin comming from the MAF wiring harness to ECU for grounding, very close to 0 ohm, so the grounding is OK on maf wiring harness. Engine throws no codes when I crank with MAF plugged in. All other values seem normal in VIDA.
When I unplug the MAF, the car will fail to start 3 or 4 times when I try to crank. Then it starts up, but it kind of shakes. It will not die or anything and it will keep running. After a few seconds radiator fan will spin even with cold engine, and won't shut off after turning ignition off. Have to disconnect wire. After about 10 mins it stops spinning. When starting, lambda is at 1. This is why I suspect engine has no air leak. As engine heats up, lambda slowly goes down to 0.88. Fuel trim is 0%. Leakage past throttle blade is 6. Throttle position and pedal position % is the same when I press the throttle with engine off, I assume engine on would be the same. Boost pressure was 1000 constantly. So was outside air pressure (Measured by a sensor, don't know the proper name for it). Idle speed was around 680 RPM, and change from desired idle was 0-20 RPM. Anyone has any ideas? Could the new MAF sensor go bad after 3 days of sitting? Could the ETM be worn? Feel free to ask questions.
I am new to the forum.
I have a 2002 Volvo S60 2.4t AWD automatic. Engine code is B5244T3, car has about 210k kilometers (130k miles)
Backstory:
I have a problem which was not present when buying the car. About 1 week later, I went to get alignment done on suspension. On the way, I started hearing a hiss sound after braking, got louder, stopped when i pressed brake again. Arrived at alignment place, stopped car, wanted to start again, wouldn't start, only crank and sputter, vibrate a lot, and die.
They read it with proper diagnostics (not vida, but not cheap OBD, it showed all of the actual codes) and it was a crank position sensor, deleted code, car started back up. Got alignment done, went home, all well. Problem returned a week later. I got check engine, car would run, but after stop wouldn't start again. Same as before, sputter, and die. Deleted code with OBD tool (Code is unknown, OBD couldn't display error) all is well.
Car sits for 1 week again. No start. I got VIDA. Connect vida, ECM-1300 MAF flow too low. Not reading anything. Ask for replacement MAF sensors from mechanic who had a volvo, got 4 used ones, he wasn't sure if they were working, most likely no. No start with all of them. 2 of them read no value, 2 of them read something like 100 or even more kg/h.
Unplug MAF, car starts and runs. Not well, it shakes a bit, and dies under heavy acceleration, I have 2 seconds of throttle lag. I went to buy a new MAF, not genuine. Got one, plugged it in, car had very low battery, started to crank, not enough power to start engine. While cranking (and engine not starting) i was reading VIDA it had 12 kg/h reading. I thought finally, I have a working MAF sensor. Also RPM sensor issue popped up again. Could be from low battery? Anyway. Charged the battery the next day, car will not start...... I plugged in VIDA, car is now reading 30kg/h air mass. RPM sensor problem gone.
Current status:
I don't know what the issue could be. I crank, car starts, idles properly without fluctuation for 3 seconds, sputters heavily, shakes, then dies. Won't start back up for a while. VIDA reads 30kg/h air mass at idle. RPM sensor reads properly. I checked the middle (3rd) pin comming from the MAF wiring harness to ECU for grounding, very close to 0 ohm, so the grounding is OK on maf wiring harness. Engine throws no codes when I crank with MAF plugged in. All other values seem normal in VIDA.
When I unplug the MAF, the car will fail to start 3 or 4 times when I try to crank. Then it starts up, but it kind of shakes. It will not die or anything and it will keep running. After a few seconds radiator fan will spin even with cold engine, and won't shut off after turning ignition off. Have to disconnect wire. After about 10 mins it stops spinning. When starting, lambda is at 1. This is why I suspect engine has no air leak. As engine heats up, lambda slowly goes down to 0.88. Fuel trim is 0%. Leakage past throttle blade is 6. Throttle position and pedal position % is the same when I press the throttle with engine off, I assume engine on would be the same. Boost pressure was 1000 constantly. So was outside air pressure (Measured by a sensor, don't know the proper name for it). Idle speed was around 680 RPM, and change from desired idle was 0-20 RPM. Anyone has any ideas? Could the new MAF sensor go bad after 3 days of sitting? Could the ETM be worn? Feel free to ask questions.
Last edited by Vikingimike; Dec 25, 2023 at 12:55 PM.
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Joined: Aug 2023
Posts: 72
Likes: 1
Hey, I'm new to the site, and need a little guidance on what to check straightaway. 3 weeks prior, the vehicle kicked the bucket while driving. I drifted into a great deal, and endeavored to begin it once more. Wouldn't begin for around 20 minutes. It was showering. The next week, it began, yet ceased to exist, and I was unable to kick it off after a couple of attempts. Then assuming it began, it wouldn't remain running. It came down that entire end of the week. I did some web looking, and reasoned that since I as a rule keep 1/4 tank of gas, I could have some buildup in the tank that has gotten blended in with the gas. I put a container of Heet in the tank, and thought I had settled the issue. The next days were dry, and I had no issues. There were 2 drizzly days where the vehicle began faltering, so I put more Heet in the tank. I had trusted it was seriously straightforward. But,this past Monday in rush hour gridlock, the vehicle passed on at a red light.
Kodi
Kodi
Last edited by dhsyu; Jan 17, 2024 at 02:10 AM.
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