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2012 Volvo S60 T5 no coils firing

Old Jan 19, 2025 | 07:10 PM
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Angry 2012 Volvo S60 T5 no coils firing

I've just completed rebuild of 2012 Volvo S60 T5.Completed reassembly, no connections are loose, insured coil packs connectors are secure. I get no firing from any coil, I've checked fuse. vehicle turns over but will not fire. This whole process began as a result of serpentine belt shredded, throwing belt under timing cover and dislodging timing belt and ending valves. Can you think of maybe any safety feature that Volvo has that would produce these symptoms? "So close (to completion) but so far!"
*Using same VVT sensors
*Using same Cam Sensors
*Using same coils
 

Last edited by bprice1963@gmail.com; Jan 19, 2025 at 07:12 PM.
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Old Jan 19, 2025 | 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by bprice1963@gmail.com
Can you think of maybe any safety feature that Volvo has that would produce these symptoms?
There is no "safety feature" that Volvo has made. Valves get bent, valves get fixed, head is reinstalled and car runs like it used to. You have missed something, sorry.

You can find wiring diagrams at volvodiag.com (under the EWD tab) - and you could check for 12v going to the coils and injectors - both are fused. But a bent valve occurrence should not have blown a fuse (unless something got shorted during the repair process!)

And congratulations - head removal and reinstallation is not an easy task!
 
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Old Jan 20, 2025 | 07:41 AM
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Thanks @hoonk
Quote: "and you could check for 12v going to the coils and injectors"
... When checking the 12v , is one of the pins or leads a constant 12v (on coils or injectors) or only when that unit is being fired?
* Can i do an old school test of pulling the coil & plug , placing plug on base of block (or finding a screw that is good ground) and observing the plug spark while cranking?
*I'm looking at wiring diagram best I can, do you have suggested test points or or your sequence of what you would check 1st, 2nd, 3rd... after checking the 12v at the coil & injector?
 

Last edited by bprice1963@gmail.com; Jan 20, 2025 at 07:56 AM.
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Old Jan 20, 2025 | 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by bprice1963@gmail.com
, do you have suggested test points
I added 3 colored boxes -
In the blue box below - is relay 2/32, it supplies power to that group of fuses in the B fuse box- looks like fuses b35-40. relay is fused by b30
Both the injectors and coils have +12v going to them whenever that 2/32 relay is closed. The injectors are grounded by the ECM to make them open. The coils get a signal from the ECM also - but also have two ground wires attached to the cam cover. (31/88 and 31/89) I trust those ground wires are reattached.
The green box is fuse 37 and sends +12v on the yellow/gray wire to the coils. Check power on both sides of fuse (that will tell you if the relay is working, it has a fuse also) and for voltage at any coil on the yellow/gray.
The yellow box is the fuse and white wire to the injectors. Check fuse 37 or for 12v at any white wire at any injector. Or you could use your $10 noid light to check injector pulse.



 

Last edited by hoonk; Jan 20, 2025 at 09:23 AM.
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Old Jan 21, 2025 | 04:25 PM
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[QUOTE=hoonk;534823]I added 3 colored boxes -
In the blue box below - is relay 2/32, it supplies power to that group of fuses in the B fuse box- looks like fuses b35-40. relay is fused by b30
Both the injectors and coils have +12v going to them whenever that 2/32 relay is closed. The injectors are grounded by the ECM to make them open. The coils get a signal from the ECM also - but also have two ground wires attached to the cam cover. (31/88 and 31/89) I trust those ground wires are reattached.
The green box is fuse 37 and sends +12v on the yellow/gray wire to the coils. Check power on both sides of fuse (that will tell you if the relay is working, it has a fuse also) and for voltage at any coil on the yellow/gray.
The yellow box is the fuse and white wire to the injectors. Check fuse 37 or for 12v at any white wire at any injector. Or you could use your $10 noid light to check injector pulse.


@Hoonk Thanks man , I'm working through the diagram and checking these. Had to come to work today but My son-in-law who is working on it with me stopped by and did the following...
1) Cleared all codes
2) Attempted to crank and heard it wanting to "hit twice" then it continued a "no hit" throughout that crank attempt
3) pulled codes and got the attached scan results.
.. went through this process about 4 times with same exact results. Does this add any insight or should i stay on the electrical diagnosis

 
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Old Jan 21, 2025 | 05:07 PM
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Are you sure the cam sensors are plugged in? The little triggering rotors (#1 below) are properly attached to the ends of the cams? Is it possible to accidentally swap the intake and exhaust cam sensor wiring plugs? Or accidentally swap the rotors from exhaust to intake?

(Coils and injectors won't do anything without knowing what position the cams are in )

 

Last edited by hoonk; Jan 21, 2025 at 05:11 PM.
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Old Jan 21, 2025 | 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by hoonk
Are you sure the cam sensors are plugged in? The little triggering rotors (#1 below) are properly attached to the ends of the cams? Is it possible to accidentally swap the intake and exhaust cam sensor wiring plugs? Or accidentally swap the rotors from exhaust to intake?

(Coils and injectors won't do anything without knowing what position the cams are in )

@hoonk you are freaking amazing person! The little intake and exhaust rotors you mentioned were in a parts bag back from the Head shop. I forgot to put them on.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2025 | 07:21 PM
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........
 
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