How does one get stuck on Volvos? I had an 89 740 GL wagon that I drove for seven years and wish I had that car right now. Thought it was time to upgrade and bought a 97 960 wagon 2-1/2 years ago. I put about 49K on the car since I bought it and it now has 136K. I drive it long distance quite frequently, for which it is great. However, I have put a lot of $ into this car and wonder if its cash consumption is ever goign to stop, or even slow down.

Most recently I put in over 2100 in engine work that included the intake manifold and some kind of sensors and this and that....as you can tell I have no clue but I was in no position to trade the car in so had the work done. However after all that work, i still get a ticking noise after it has been idling for a while, or when the oil gets near 3000 miles. I was told that was the lifters and it would cost 1500 to repair. Now, it has been making this noise since I bought it, however less frequently. It drives perfectly well and I'm inclined to not get it repaired. Am I causing it more harm if I don't get the lifters repaired? Should I care?

The other persistent problem that doesn't seem to interfere with the car's performance, is a clunking sound as I move from a stop very slowly, either forward or in reverse. It seems to be radiating from somewhere behind the brake or accelerator pedal, on the engine side of the firewall. It clunks, then the clunking disappears as I get up to speed and it doesn't return until the next time I start the car. 5 mechanics said there is nothing wrong with the car in this regard, even the volvo dealer who said it was just its age. However, I'm concerned that its only a matter of time and a bearing or tie rod will give. Any insights?

And there are two recent problems. One is that I seem to be burning light bulbs as soon as I change them.. For instance, I just replaced the rear window brake light, then a tail light went out. I've been doing this round robin of light bulb changes now for several months....since the fall. I recently put in a new battery ($150) and had all the connections tightened....still burning bulbs.

Lastly, the a/c is on the decline. This problem seems be be pretty straight forward where the others are not. I can live with getting this repaired, thinking I can get anothe 136K miles on it, but am I being naive?

Any and all insights are greatly appreciated.

Copper2

 

The oil pan o-rings could also be bad.Have the oil pressure checked and make sure it isn't low.Or could still be the lifters.

Is the clicking only when cold? Is it a clicking or clicking/hum?

Light bulbs do burn fast on the newer cars.It is best to replace the bulbs in pairs or 3's.2 different brands of bulbs could also make the bulb failure light stay on.



The A/C might just need to be recharged.If it hasn't been done in the last couple of years then that is about normal.

 

clicking most often when engine is hot and after its been idling....like at railroad tracks. It clicks most often when oil is nearing or over the 3000 mile mark. Just clickkkkks, no hum.

I will change the bulbs all at once.. I thought of that too and will try it.

I am having the a/c check out on Monday. It blows through the center vents but was blocked from the lower and upper vents by the dealer when I had trouble in June. As long as I don't have to run it too long and its not too hot the a/c cools the car fine from the cente vents alone.

Any thoughts on the clunking sound?

Thanks for your input.

copper2

 

The reason I asked about the humming noise is because the 960's have an air pump that runs only when the car is cold.It makes a funny noise.It also makes the exhaust sound louder on first start up in the morning.

Im wondering it the clunking might be related.

It only does it when first started cold?

 

The longer story on the clunk.... More than two years ago, the car was parked on an incline in Pennsylvania. I started the car and started to pull out of the parking space, going uphill, when I heard and felt something give way or break somewhere located in the driver's side wheel well area. From that point on I hear the clunk as I described. I notice it predictably when I first pull out, but as I think about it, it will at times, not always, clunk after the car has been warmed up when pulling away from a stop. There are no handling problems, and no performance problems along with this. I had five separate mechanics look at it. No one found a problem. It sounds like some shifting of some parts that may have loosened.

I don't think the car has excessive airpump noise, but it helps to know this. The more I know, the less my anxiety.

Copper2

 

What I would do is get under the car or put on jack stands SAFELY and Make sure ALL bolts in the front suspension are tight.Now that you mention it I remember have this before.It ended upp being a screw not torqued 100% properly.If I remember correctly it was one of the bracket the bolt to the steering rack and the body of the car.There is 3 brackets under there.There is one in the middle and one that goes from each side of it.

Like I said make sure everything is tight.

 

thank you so much Tech. I cannot do this work but I will be insistent that the mechanic checks the bolts on Monday. Thanks again.

I feel so much better about my car just since communicating with you and this website. TRhis car is a great runner really...a few quirks, but once I understand them I can live with them, or fix them if I choose. Thanks again. Copper2.

 

Let me know how it goes.