About a 3 weeks ago I got the new baby - '94 Volvo 850 SW auto almost 4 free instead of my crazy horse SHO-Taurus manual.
So, as you can predict, I've changed my drivestyle radically.
It was smoking as a hell. But I fixed it and now it is OK. It has 130K Mi and tranny has been replaced on used one at ~95K.
Previous owner (2-nd, I guess) did not do any maintanance. Oil was like from a sewer pit, air filter was a piece of junk, it smoked (as I told), I put 4!! quarts of ATF into the tranny until the level got OK, the clearkote on the roof and hood was peeled off, balljoint boots were broken and full of sand (LF wheel was eaten to the cord, while others were OK), left CV-joint was dead, tailgate struts - dead, moonroof materil dropped, ABS - dead, service light - on, tailgate is rattling.
But now that's, pretty much the different car.
No smoke, good shifting, new CV-joint, new control arms & swaybar links, new tailgate struts, and new air/gas filters.
Still work on it.
It has a poor gas mileage - 15 MPG/City (with old air filter) I will measure it again with a new one, rattling is still annoying,.central console deflectors blow the cold air while side ones give hot, no rear gear light, no parking brakes. I can not reset the troble codes on A3, A6, & A7. By the way, what are the A7 codes 231 and 122? I did not find any info in the manuals.
Nevertheless, I like this car and it will be like a new soon!

 

I don't have a listing for the 231 code.
But 122 is Temp signal interval to short.

What are the code in the other system?

 

Yes, I recall that I've found the code 122 but did not understand what does it mean.

Other codes:
A1 1-1-1
A2 1-1-1
A3 4-4-4; 3-1-1; 1-4-1; 1-4-2
A6 2-4-1;
A7 2-3-1; 1-2-2

I did not check B slots yet.

So, it could be some more questions:
- What means "no power to hydravlic unit valves'? Isn't it just a fuse?
- How to check wheel sensor? Just the resistance check by multymeter?
- How can the pedal switch and stop light switches be faulty if I have the stop lights OK?
- Is the EGR replacement such a nightmare as Hayness describes it?
- How to clean the codes? The standard method does not work for me.

Thank you for help!

 

The EGR valve is a pain it is best to do it by pulling the intake manifold.

For the ABS check all fuses and the wires for the sensors.
Clearing the codes should work. But if not maybe disconnect the battery. But make sure you have the Radio code first.

 

I've erased all codes today!
There is an explanation of my troubles in the Hayness manual:
The codes can not be erased untill all of them been exposed and at least one repeated.
Using all my patience I went through the codes again an everithing works.
I turned off the service lamp either.
After about 1 hour of driving no codes return, except of EGR (damn it!).
A3 also shows 1-1-1, but ABS lamp on the instrument panel had blinked once when I left the parking.
Hopefully brakes are OK, I'll chek them at the raining weather.

Thanks for help!

The next big project is a T-belt...
p.s. does anybody know where to buy the clips for the tailgate inner panel? They all are gone in my car. Groton does not have them.

 

Hi Che_rokee,

Greetings from Chicagoland.

As for the ABS, unfortunately Volvo's ABS (German ATE) has poor reputation of failing for no apparent reasons, so it is either of faulty design or poor manufacturing. Also, many places only repair/upgrade the unit for '96 and newer units and not bother with '95 or older units. If you really need ABS, I would either buya new/rebuilt moduleat FCP Groton (or shop around if you can find a better deal) or find one at a junk yard.

http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvo850brakes.htm

If you are electronically inclined, you could perhaps open the box, visually inspect for poor soldering, cracks, etc and test each SMD with a DMM. But note, that the ABS module islinked with speedometer and once removed from the car, the speedo doesn't work.

As for each wheel speed sensor, I believe they produce voltage in mV range or 5V max. You could perhaps try hooking up a DMM to the sensor connector, turn the driveshaft by hand and see if you get any response. Also, the sensor tips & reluctor (the serrated part of the CV axle) get dirty over the years/miles, so you can clean them with brake cleaner. I wouldn't worry about codes you get from the ABS, it's just the module went haywire.

As for those plastic clips, I found them at local AutoZone, they have various sizes/colours available.

Good luck.

PS: In case you need assistance with T-belt, there are a number of threads related to the procedure on this forum, as well as at: http://www.volvospeed.com/Repair/timingbelt.php


JPN

 

http://www2.swedishpartswholesale.co...t&dp=false

Buy that it is a repair kit for the panel and comes with clips.

 

Codes 141 &142 return.

$17 for few clips and screws is not a good deal. I got a pack of clips in Advance Auto Parts for $2.80 pieces of polyfoam and soft rubber and a fistful of screws for free.
Will work on it at weekend.

 

The sensor in the booster might be bad.

The kit I linked you to has metal brackets to put on panel to make sure the clips hold tight.
The plastic on the panel breaks and thats why it won't stay clipped on the clips.

 

I did the tailgate, it's like a rock now!
First, I removed all panels on and around the TG, take the latch off, insert it into the lock on 2 clicks, sit inside and close the TG. Then I pull it firmly and tight 2 torx screws on the latch. So, TG does not play itself.
After that I take the largest retainers from the set I bought, cut unnessecary parts from heads and vound ins. tape on the pins, so they get into the holes tight. I also glued couple pieces of polyfoam (~1" thick) inside the panel and put the panel on the TG. I left 3 extra screws which were there just for security, at list the panel will not drop. The problem here was an absence of genuine Volvo retainers, If I had them, whole project could be much easier and result would be more reliable.

 

It is easy to replace. Can I check it with multymeter?

 

Resistance inactive should be 249 +- 10%
Fully depressed infinate

 

thanks