I have a 1985 Dodge Omni GLH with lots and lots of modifications, staying 2.2L block and 8 valve cylinder head. It made 290WHP at 20psi on E85 couple years ago on a socketed 1987 Dodge logic module ECU that I programmed. I was experiencing electrical issue with my car and decided it isn't worth my time to troubleshoot the issue, since there is only two possibilities, computers or wiring, none is available new. Wanting to keep the car, aftermarket ECU is the only option and Megasquirt / Microsqurit sounded so good.

For simplicity sake I went with batch firing injectors and wasted spark ignition system, so the compact\slightly cheaper Microsquirt would work fine for me as I will only need one crank sensor and a 36-1 wheel welded to my crank. Factory Chrysler's 2.2/2.5 hall effect sensor/distributor setup is broken on MS.


My Microsquirt input/outputs are the following.

Inputs are:
crank/hall sensor, shielded from the shielding of a coax cable.(no need for cam sensor)
coolant temperature sensor (Chrysler sensor)
air temperature sensor (open element Chrysler sensor)
throttle position sensor (Stock Chrysler sensor)
ethanol sensor (GM sensor)
o2 sensor (AEM Uego with 5v output)
manifold absolute pressure sensor (GM 3 bar map)
knock sensor (knocksense controller Engine knock detection and indication for all vehicles)
A/C sense wire


Outputs are:
idle control (on/off solenoid, not the stock stepper motor)
tachometer
two set of Ignition coil (goes to 420a coil)
two set of injectors (75lbs low impedance injectors with a Volvo injector resistor)
a/c cut off
fan relay wire
fuel pump

Boost control is handle by my HDi electronic boost controller, and I am very happy with that.
Added an external voltage regulator from a 80's dodge truck for the alterantor, super easy to do.
Changed all factory fusible links to PAL fuseblock, and added a blade fuseblock for Microsquirt with an relay for ignition switch on

I have roughly $1225 into Microsquirt related parts

Microsquirt + 8 ft harness $369
36-1 wheel $32.00
Weld 36-1 wheel to crank $100
crank sensor $43
QuadSpark $89.00
MAP sensor connector $8.50
MAT sensor connector $10.00
ECT sensor connector $10.00
TPS sensor connector $10.00
420A wires $20
420A coil $20
Wiring Connector packs $30
USB to serial $15
Misc wires $40
Uninsulated crimp $20
Crimp tool $13
Shrink Wrap $10
Misc bolts $15
Relay $15
Fusebox $25
Fuses $5
E85 sensor + connector $80
knocksense $80
Injector resister $30
wire loop $20
MAC valve for idle control $30
3m tape $6
Tuner Studio + MegaViewer $79.95
etc...

Separating engine harness with body harness.


Welded the 36-1 wheel to my crank pulley


Microsquirt and Quadspark at stock ECU location


Some people have coil on plug, I have coil on distributor!
Mounted my 420a coil on my distributor, after taking all the moving parts out of the distributor.


Welded some 1/4" thick metal for my crank sensor bracket.



Injector resistor, on/off idle solenoid, and 3 bar map under the solenoid


E85 sensor


Boost control solenoid, hobbs pressure switch, (opens at 0psi to control the solenoid that allow blowby to from Valvecover to pre-turbo piping), PCV blowby solenoid


Fuseblocks, PC680 battery, and Volvo radiator fan relay



Wiring mostly cleaned up

 

Wow, that is interesting!

 

Tryingbe, I owned one of those Omni GLH's back in the day. Mine was the NA version,; when I test drove the turbo version, the torque steer at full throttle was overwhelming so I picked the red, NA version. Kept it for 10 years, reasonably trouble free car.

 

A stock GLH turbo was rated at 146HP at the crank. This is the dyno back when I was running a socketed stock computer. I bet I'm making much more power now, probably will go to Dyno next month.


Torque steer is not an issue below 3000rpm. LOL.

 

Makes even more power now.



Except I can't drive. #115.