Hello All,
I have just installed new front strut modules (Sachs "Quick Struts") on my 2005 Volvo V70 in my home garage.
Have a question regarding tightening the bolts/nuts clamping the strut clevis to the wheel knuckle (hub carrier) before wheel alignment.
Of course I used new bolts and nuts for the above connection (as well as new flange nuts for the top mount/tower connection) as specified by Volvo (these are single-use fasteners).
I have not torqued any of the nuts to final specs yet since I sill need to take the car to check and if needed adjust the alignment.
If I torque them now to final specs and they need to be loosened during the alignment they will need to replaced again at the alignment shop...
Does anyone have a sound recommendation based on technical reasoning and experience how to handle this? E.g., torque to a lower spec until the alignment -- 80%?.. 90%?..
Thanks and Cheers,
-Yoram

 

You might be worried about torque spec - but I guarantee if you had paid someone to replace those struts - they would use an impact wrench with the setting of good-n-tight. You could always measure like Volvo suggests to be able to put the same camber angle when you replace the strut (there is only a small adjustment). That measurement might not be valid if you used aftermarket parts! And I do realize Volvo suggest using new torque to yield bolts - I don't think anyone does unless they are from a rust belt climate. We always use new stretch head bolts - but never for a strut/spring or strut cushion job. I also doubt if the alignment "tech/porter/shop boy" will even know that the camber can be adjusted that tiny amount.

 

Hoonk, thanks a lot for the quick and great reply!
Yes, you are right, I'm sure most shops would unfortunately use impact wrenches whether during assembly or alignment..
And yes, although my struts are Sachs as were the OEM's I didn't think that with the added variability of the mounts and their position in the tower (not sure which make those are) I will be able to reproduce the previous alignment. BTW, the torque to yield (actually a bit beyond yield) is to ensure correct clamp load retention and not really a function of climate or rust considerations.
I did push the top of the knuckles inboard as far as they will go during tightening for max negative camber. Prefer that over positive...
And so far I torqued the bolts to stage 1 (77 ft-lb) but did not proceed to stage 2 (90 deg). May hold off there until the alignment and ride them to torque to final specs unless I hear other ideas...
Thanks again!