use graduated jugs to collect the used fluid, so you can add a fresh quart for each quart that comes out to maintain a more or less constant level while flushing. I've used gallon milk jugs that I'd previously added half quart marks to (add a pint of water, mark, repeat til full, then drain and let dry).

FOr adding fluid, I use a transmission funnel like this...


but I shorten the clear hose to about 9", and I hang the funnel part off a bent wire hook to the upright hood... the tip of this fits snugly into the dipstick tube, and there's a shutoff valve at the funnel so you can control how fast the ATF goes into the tranny.

if you get it all dialed in right, you can just leave the motor running, and add your new quarts at the speed the old ones come out.

 

LOL Pierce I have the same exact funnel. But anyway, yes I do understand the quart to quart method so you are not straining the tranny motor of uneven fluid. Keeping fingers crossed that this resolves the issue. If not, I will be looking to you guys for a method on pulling the tranny and engine/tranny since I cannot find good enough resources online to know exactly what I am having to do. I have received a little information but this is my first tranny removal and I am unfamiliar with the cross member, drive shaft, etc. that bolts and whatnot need to be removed from. Engine removal is a little more common sense. Just make sure nothing is still attached to the bay LOL.

 

I have read on the forums here that a whining noise coming from the transmission may be a result of a clogged filter screen. You may want to consider dropping the pan and checking the screen prior to doing the flush. If it is clogged, then you may want to clean/replace. You will need a new pan gasket as well if you go this route.

How black is the current fluid? Does it smell burnt at all?

 

The fluid does not smell burnt but kinda smells like oil. I know I don't have oil in the tranny but anyway. The fluid is dark dirty red. I would not say it is black. I didn't want to drop the pan but at this point it just makes sense. Why would I do a flush of fluid without changing the screen and checking inside the pan. I never like dealing with the pans because I always have a hard time with sealing and deal with ridiculous leaks. Also, I already know I will not be able to remove the dipstick nut so any other suggestion on dealing with the pan with it on would help. Also, I plan on draining the pan, removing it, changing screen and putting pan back on THEN flushing old fluid and adding new. Is this OK or am I just dirtying up the new screen? Thanks all.

 

unless the screen is damaged, just clean it, there's no point in replacing it.

 

You can drop the pan with the dipstick tube still on. However, the dipstick tube is held by one of the bolts that hold the engine and transmission together so it will have to be removed.

If it were me, I would do the flush without removing the pan, run the car a few days and see if it helps your shifting issues. If your shifting problems clear up and you don't get any whining then you are good to go. Dropping the pan later is always an option. It will just waste a few quarts of fluid.

The screen is not a filter in these trannys - just a screen. And therefore it can be cleaned as Pierce stated. No need for replacement unless damaged.

By the way, when you drain the pan, sift through the debris that may come out. Check for any chunks that could indicate deteriorating clutches or any metal filings that may indicate any internal damage. These are very robust transmissions and rarely fail unless extremely neglected. If your fluid still retains some of the reddish color, then I would guess it hasn't been TOO neglected. I have seen some that are almost solid black and still functioned fine.

 

Well damn people I just spent 20 bucks on getting the filter kit shipped here! Can't be blowing money. Mine as well replace it anyway. I saw that the forums said it is not necessary to replace the screens on a '90 and up or something like that. Since mine is an '85 maybe it wouldn't hurt. Also, should I use gasket sealer? As I said I have had a hell of a time securing these pans back and ensuring no leaks afterward.

 

OK everyone so I flushed about 8 quarts and I noticed the fluid was dark but definitely not as dirty as I thought. Very clean of debris actually. No metal of any kind or any foreign matter. Car was warmed up when I drove it so I haven't been able to check the cold problem but it seemed like it is shifting better but still a little rough. The transmission does feel a lot smoother. Not as choked up. My whining is still prevalent so I guess that screen replacement is going to come in handy. Any suggestions for getting the dipstick nut off? Thanks.

 

squirt that nut with Kroil or PB Blaster a half dozen times a day for a couple days til you are ready to take it off. use a 6-point 'flare nut wrench' the correct size (which is metric of course... no, I don't know how many mm offhand). a flare wrench is like a box wrench with a notch cut in it big enough to fit over the dipstick tube, it grabs the nut much better than an open end.

 

install new transmission and report bak

 

Whenever I get a car with a request for a trans flush. The immediate question is> trans problems?!. The retort is almost always YES. Flush tranny and the result is never better. Tranny is ****ed. Replace.

 

Yea it's fine. Realistically I should be able to drive on it like this for a while until it bunks out. Time will tell. But from sitting i'm pretty sure that was the cause and old tranny fluid sitting for a while probably wore some parts out and now after 6 months of driving it has slowly eaten away and the issues have arisen. I guess I will put a tranny in it once it ****s out.

 

I recall reading somewhere here in the forums that hard shifts from first to second is a common problem in these transmissions and is due to a worn ball valve in the valve body. It can be fixed by replacing the ball. However, it recommended just leaving it as it doesn't affect any other functioning. My daughter's 240 had this problem when we bought it. She has put 50k miles on the car since then and it still is running fine and hasn't gotten any worse. I'd run the thing as long as you can and only replace it when it craps out.

Regarding the dipstick tube, I'm scared of trying to remove that (I live in the rust belt). Like I said in an earlier post, I believe you can drop the pan while leaving the tube on. I haven't ever done it but I don't see why it can't be done.