Good afternoon fellow volvo peeps! Bunchman here, and it has been many moons since my last query. Misty and I made it through the motor mount replacement challenge and have some exhaust system repair in store for Friday. I'm having the exhaust replaced from the catalytic converter through the muffler. My problem though is, once again, stalling. I start her and she turns over right away then stops. I do it again and she goes a bit longer then stops. Sometimes on the third try, she starts and keeps going. Now, I have not touched the gas on these attempts. When I get her going she is running great! When warmed up, she will sometimes stall at a red light. I don't think it's the fuel pump. It just doesn't seem as though she's getting something. My fellow enthusiasts, lend me your ears and unique skills set of knowledge on my quest for Misty's continued dominance of San Diego's roadways. As always my friends, thank you in advance for any and all input on this matter. Good day.

 

Take a tack hammer and lightly tap all of the injectors. Solved my issue on my 1986 DL 245. It was sitting for close to 10 years i believe.

 

Thanks for the suggestion but, tapping on the injectors didn't seem to help. I'm afraid it's the fuel pump. When I go into a right turn just after starting the car she just turns off. Isn't that a sure sign of the fuel pump? Do I replace the in-tank and in-line pumps? Please, can one of my fellow volvo peeps point me in the right direction?

 

how much gas do you usually keep in the tank? i try to have at least 1/2 full or more...
how's the dizzie cap and rotor?

 

I am guilty of running her on a low tank. I am committed to keeping more gas in the tank. My dizzie cap and rotor are relatively new and I just replaced the wires and plugs days ago because the cover on plug #2 was cracked. I'm frustrated but not at all deterred at returning her to tiptop shape. It may be a vacuum leak. What is my next step? I can't afford to throw parts at a problem and she means everything to me and my livelihood.

 

Good afternoon Volvo peeps, my peeps! Perhaps it's not a mystery to some of you out there but it's a mystery to me. I just got out of the car and when I come to a stop I have to put it in neutral in order to keep the car running. When the light turns green, I put it in drive and I can proceed. When I pull into park her and shift into reverse she sputters and wants to die and sometimes does. When I put it in reverse and she dies there's a rattle that comes from the back of the car that sounds like the muffler is bouncing up and down. It's an awful sound that causes bystanders to take notice. I am going to put her up and take a look at a vacuum line that disappears into the firewall near the shifter side of the brake booster. I am also going to try my first smoke test to try to rule out vacuum issues. ANY and all criticism, help, ridicule, sarcasm or (God forbid) advice is welcome.

 

only vacuum line I can think of that goes through the firewall is for the heater controls. that shouldn't have any effect on engine operation.


your stumbling/stalling sounds like the IAC, (Idle Air Controll valve) is not working. this is a electrically actuated air valve thats under the intake manifold, and controls how much air bypasses the throttle to keep the idle speed up. with the IAC electrical plug disconnected, a warmed up engine in NEUTRAL, with all accessories off, should idle at 500 RPM. with the IAC connected, it should idle at 700-750, and maintain that in gear, with the AC running, whatever.

the other thing is the idle throttle switch. that switch is on the side of the throtle body and should close (0 ohms) when the throttle is at full idle, and open (no ohms) the instant any throttle is applied. This switch is what turns on the idle air control circuit... both the switch and the IAC are connected to the ECU (fuel injection control unit)

 

Thank you pierce! I always do enjoy your input on every matter I have received it on. That line I followed through the firewall went directly into my brake switch. When I first got Misty I cleaned my idle air control valve. It was semi stuck shut so I cleaned it with throttle body cleaner or carb cleaner I don't remember which and it made a world of difference. It was hardly opening and after I cleaned it it went click clack click clack when I rotated it from side to side. Taking a look at the IAC was actually next on the list so I will do it tomorrow the first chance I get. In the meantime, when the car was idling this afternoon I have some carb cleaner and I sprayed it around my exhaust manifold and I got quickened idle response where I have already replaced the exhaust manifold gaskets. I proceeded to tighten the nuts on the gaskets I had replaced and accidentally broke one of my studs. So it looks like I will be replacing those gaskets again because I have to take it apart to extract the broken stud so I figure I may as well replace the gaskets again since I'm in there. When I replaced the gaskets the first time we did not replace the gasket that leads to the exhaust at the bottom before the catalytic converter and I think that's where my leak was or is. I think that gasket or that joint came loose when I had to move the engine around replacing my motor mounts. On the bright side, it doesn't appear to be the fuel pump. Mutton for all!!!!!!!

 

ok, vacuum line to the brake pedal, that would be for the cruise control I forgot about that one.

exhaust leaks shouldn't have a major impact on engine performance, although they could cause OX sensor faults in the diagnostics on a later model car that has diags (that would be 1989+). its intake leaks downstream from the MAF that cause running problems.

 

Can we get a video of it trying to idle?

 

Good morning fellow Volvo peeps. Yesterday when I put my IAC back together, I noticed this severed vacuum line. I looked all around and I could not find out or figure out where the other part of this line was. Once I reconnected the IAC I started her and drove her around for a few blocks. Of course, the same thing happened. I approach to stop, and the idle lowers and if I come to a complete stop she dies. Thank you pierce for your input and in response to tempest I will try to post a video of her idling. As always my friends, thank you.

 

 

Please volvo nation, lend me your knowledge! No one has any idea abut this severed line? Tempest, I tried to post video of me starting her and was told it was the incorrect format so I will try another way. Pierce, I have an '85 245 dl with no tachometer. Is there another way to test the functionality of the IAC? I will also test the idle throttle switch with my multimeter. All y all who take the time to help, and therefore encourage, me and others like me. You f@#☆#$ ROCK! Thank you!

 

Ill be honest, the picture you posted with the severed line, I need clarification on which one. maybe draw a circle on it. That way I can go look at mine to compare..

 

This 6 inch line which is a vacuum/fuel line wrapped in a braided line? The end that's not connected (top in the picture) was pointing down and it has a piece of some plastic connector broken off inside the end.

 

Upload the video to YouTube...post a link to the video here.

 

Yeah it's kinda off topic...but it does kinda show how YouTube videos can be posted into a thread.🙄

 

Well, off topic? Off topic! Maybe just a little. Actually though, perhaps herein lies the solution to my video of trying to demonstrate my idling problem. The format was rejected by the forum because of its format (mp4.). Further investigation appears warranted. Hmmmmmm.

 

I'm not much help on redblocks older than '89.

That being said...and seeing no mention as of yet of the main engine wiring harness I'll ask this.

Do you know if the harness is original or has it been replaced at some point over the years. I ask because Volvos of that vintage are known to have wiring issues due to degrading insulation on the harness.

If the harness is original your probably gonna have drivability issues until it's switched out.

 

That looks like the vacuum line that goes from the oil separator box flame arrester to the intake manifold. The broken plastic piece is the nipple on the fitting.