Hi everyone this is my first post on this forum. I have been having issues with my volvo for a few months now. when I slowly press the gas in it will rev up but when I press it quickly it will pop and bang and not make any power. It also has a high idle That bounces up and down around 1000 to 900 rpm.

I have gotten a new maf sensor, o2 sensor, upgraded the fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator and a lot more at this point I have no idea how to fix it

 

Having changed all the mentioned parts is not helpful as far as diagnosis.
What was happening before to make you change all that?
What effect did this part and that part have toward solving the issue which you presumably had?
What quality parts did you put in?
Now we are to assume that all the replaced parts are 100% and above suspicion but we can't do that... MAFS, other sensors, wires, have to be good OEM quality.
What's an "upgraded" fuel pump?

 

I was having this same problem so I started changing parts. I had bought a used o2 sensor and it ran a bit better then it seemed to foul so I bought a brand new one ran decently then seemed to foul again. When I unplug the o2 and the maf fit seems to do it a lot less. The car would run better when I unplugged the maf so I had got a new one and it ran a lot better. I replaced the fpr because it had a slight smell of gas. It ran a lot better when I replaced it but it slowly went back to doing it again. If I where to spray starting fluid into the intake it will rev right up without what I think miss firing. So I think it could either be fuel problem or mixture problem. I also got better injectors and grounded the resistors out. Witch made it sound a bit better.
the upgraded fuel pump is a aem 340 lph in tank pump

 

Have you addressed the basics, like timing belt, valves problems, head gasket, etc? Take a compression test first to eliminate more serious reasons like burned valve... Then make sure timing belt hasn't slipped...

 

'better injectors' ? the turbo high flow injectors are low impedance, and without the ballast resistor, you'll eventually blow the injector control output of the ECU. 'grounded the resistor out'?? the ballast resistor is on the power side of the injectors, so grounding that would be a short circuit and provide no power to the injectors at all.

 

I have done the timing belt and I’ve done it many times to double check that that is not my problem. And I haven’t done any of those other things.

 

these are high impedance

 

the ECU map assumes it knows the flow rate of the stock injectors, are these better injecctors the same flow rate as the standard turbo ones?

 

I don’t think they are the same flow rate but it some how runs better with these in

 

Is it possible that it’s my ignition coil? If so how would I test it?