1988 240 , no spark
#1
1988 240 , no spark
88 240dl sedan died going down the hill
yes it has fuel. Both pumps are working
CAR HAS NO CRANK POSITION SENSOR
Main 25amp fuse is good
Timing belt looks good and spins good
NO SPARK
replaced the spark plugs, wirrs, cap and rotor
Replaced the coil
Replaced the Hall sender
Replaced the engine control module.
Still no spark.
yes it has fuel. Both pumps are working
CAR HAS NO CRANK POSITION SENSOR
Main 25amp fuse is good
Timing belt looks good and spins good
NO SPARK
replaced the spark plugs, wirrs, cap and rotor
Replaced the coil
Replaced the Hall sender
Replaced the engine control module.
Still no spark.
#2
that main 25A fuse is strictly for the fuel injection system. by 'engine control module', do you mean the ECU thats just forward of the passenger front door hinges? or the ICU (Ignition control unit) thats on the right fender just behind the headlight ?
the ignition coil has two pins on the sides, pin 1 comes from the ICU (Ignition Control Unit), and pin 15 is power from the ignition switch. turn the key on, make sure you have 12V at pin 15 relative to ground. get a 12V test light, connect it from pin 1 to ground, and have someone crank the car, does the light blink ?
the ignition coil has two pins on the sides, pin 1 comes from the ICU (Ignition Control Unit), and pin 15 is power from the ignition switch. turn the key on, make sure you have 12V at pin 15 relative to ground. get a 12V test light, connect it from pin 1 to ground, and have someone crank the car, does the light blink ?
#3
that main 25A fuse is strictly for the fuel injection system. by 'engine control module', do you mean the ECU thats just forward of the passenger front door hinges? or the ICU (Ignition control unit) thats on the right fender just behind the headlight ?
the ignition coil has two pins on the sides, pin 1 comes from the ICU (Ignition Control Unit), and pin 15 is power from the ignition switch. turn the key on, make sure you have 12V at pin 15 relative to ground. get a 12V test light, connect it from pin 1 to ground, and have someone crank the car, does the light blink ?
the ignition coil has two pins on the sides, pin 1 comes from the ICU (Ignition Control Unit), and pin 15 is power from the ignition switch. turn the key on, make sure you have 12V at pin 15 relative to ground. get a 12V test light, connect it from pin 1 to ground, and have someone crank the car, does the light blink ?
#4
pull the distributor cap, ensure the rotor turns when the engine is cranked
if you got timing pulses on pin 1, and power on pin 15, its virtually IMPOSSIBLE you don't have spark unless one or more of the components you replaced is bad.
unplug the coil HV wire from the distributor, hold it very near a ground (using a well insulated grabber tool...), crank, you should see a strong spark from it. if you don't, its a bad coil, or a bad HV wire.
if you do, then something is wrong with that distributor. maybe its 180 out of phase so the wrong plug is sparking at the wrong time, or something.
if you got timing pulses on pin 1, and power on pin 15, its virtually IMPOSSIBLE you don't have spark unless one or more of the components you replaced is bad.
unplug the coil HV wire from the distributor, hold it very near a ground (using a well insulated grabber tool...), crank, you should see a strong spark from it. if you don't, its a bad coil, or a bad HV wire.
if you do, then something is wrong with that distributor. maybe its 180 out of phase so the wrong plug is sparking at the wrong time, or something.
#5
pull the distributor cap, ensure the rotor turns when the engine is cranked
if you got timing pulses on pin 1, and power on pin 15, its virtually IMPOSSIBLE you don't have spark unless one or more of the components you replaced is bad.
unplug the coil HV wire from the distributor, hold it very near a ground (using a well insulated grabber tool...), crank, you should see a strong spark from it. if you don't, its a bad coil, or a bad HV wire.
if you do, then something is wrong with that distributor. maybe its 180 out of phase so the wrong plug is sparking at the wrong time, or something.
if you got timing pulses on pin 1, and power on pin 15, its virtually IMPOSSIBLE you don't have spark unless one or more of the components you replaced is bad.
unplug the coil HV wire from the distributor, hold it very near a ground (using a well insulated grabber tool...), crank, you should see a strong spark from it. if you don't, its a bad coil, or a bad HV wire.
if you do, then something is wrong with that distributor. maybe its 180 out of phase so the wrong plug is sparking at the wrong time, or something.
if it was180 out of phase it would still show spark it is showing 0
#7
oh. pin 15 should be directly connected to the ignition switch... circuit 15 is on when in run and start.
lets see, Ignition switch pin '15' has a blue-yellow wire that goes to the 'input' side of fuse 12 (which is also tied to the input side of fuses 11 and 13 via a bus bar inside the fuse block). the input side of fuse 11 has a blue wire which runs directly to coil pin 15. note that this circuit is NOT going through any fuse, they are just using the fuse block as a handy place to tap the ignition switched power.
when you look at the fuse block thats behind the panel at left of the drivers legs, on the right side of each fuse is 3 spade lugs. the right/forward most spade is the 'input' and is connected to the far (left) side of the fuse, while the left and middle spades are the 'output' side and are connected to the right side of the fuse.
coil pin 15 actually has TWO wires, the other one goes to ICU pin 2 and provides the power to the ignition control unit.
so... check to see that fuses 11/12/13 are powered when the ignition switch is on. check to see that there is a blue-yellow wire on the right-most terminal next to fuse 12, and a blue wire on the right-most terminal next to fuse 11. if there's no power at the blue-yellow wire, then perhaps your ignition switch is the problem ?
all my left/right directions are relative to the car, from the perspective of the seated driver...
lets see, Ignition switch pin '15' has a blue-yellow wire that goes to the 'input' side of fuse 12 (which is also tied to the input side of fuses 11 and 13 via a bus bar inside the fuse block). the input side of fuse 11 has a blue wire which runs directly to coil pin 15. note that this circuit is NOT going through any fuse, they are just using the fuse block as a handy place to tap the ignition switched power.
when you look at the fuse block thats behind the panel at left of the drivers legs, on the right side of each fuse is 3 spade lugs. the right/forward most spade is the 'input' and is connected to the far (left) side of the fuse, while the left and middle spades are the 'output' side and are connected to the right side of the fuse.
coil pin 15 actually has TWO wires, the other one goes to ICU pin 2 and provides the power to the ignition control unit.
so... check to see that fuses 11/12/13 are powered when the ignition switch is on. check to see that there is a blue-yellow wire on the right-most terminal next to fuse 12, and a blue wire on the right-most terminal next to fuse 11. if there's no power at the blue-yellow wire, then perhaps your ignition switch is the problem ?
all my left/right directions are relative to the car, from the perspective of the seated driver...
#8
oh. pin 15 should be directly connected to the ignition switch... circuit 15 is on when in run and start.
lets see, Ignition switch pin '15' has a blue-yellow wire that goes to the 'input' side of fuse 12 (which is also tied to the input side of fuses 11 and 13 via a bus bar inside the fuse block). the input side of fuse 11 has a blue wire which runs directly to coil pin 15. note that this circuit is NOT going through any fuse, they are just using the fuse block as a handy place to tap the ignition switched power.
when you look at the fuse block thats behind the panel at left of the drivers legs, on the right side of each fuse is 3 spade lugs. the right/forward most spade is the 'input' and is connected to the far (left) side of the fuse, while the left and middle spades are the 'output' side and are connected to the right side of the fuse.
coil pin 15 actually has TWO wires, the other one goes to ICU pin 2 and provides the power to the ignition control unit.
so... check to see that fuses 11/12/13 are powered when the ignition switch is on. check to see that there is a blue-yellow wire on the right-most terminal next to fuse 12, and a blue wire on the right-most terminal next to fuse 11. if there's no power at the blue-yellow wire, then perhaps your ignition switch is the problem ?
all my left/right directions are relative to the car, from the perspective of the seated driver...
lets see, Ignition switch pin '15' has a blue-yellow wire that goes to the 'input' side of fuse 12 (which is also tied to the input side of fuses 11 and 13 via a bus bar inside the fuse block). the input side of fuse 11 has a blue wire which runs directly to coil pin 15. note that this circuit is NOT going through any fuse, they are just using the fuse block as a handy place to tap the ignition switched power.
when you look at the fuse block thats behind the panel at left of the drivers legs, on the right side of each fuse is 3 spade lugs. the right/forward most spade is the 'input' and is connected to the far (left) side of the fuse, while the left and middle spades are the 'output' side and are connected to the right side of the fuse.
coil pin 15 actually has TWO wires, the other one goes to ICU pin 2 and provides the power to the ignition control unit.
so... check to see that fuses 11/12/13 are powered when the ignition switch is on. check to see that there is a blue-yellow wire on the right-most terminal next to fuse 12, and a blue wire on the right-most terminal next to fuse 11. if there's no power at the blue-yellow wire, then perhaps your ignition switch is the problem ?
all my left/right directions are relative to the car, from the perspective of the seated driver...
#9
#10
oh. pin 15 should be directly connected to the ignition switch... circuit 15 is on when in run and start.
lets see, Ignition switch pin '15' has a blue-yellow wire that goes to the 'input' side of fuse 12 (which is also tied to the input side of fuses 11 and 13 via a bus bar inside the fuse block). the input side of fuse 11 has a blue wire which runs directly to coil pin 15. note that this circuit is NOT going through any fuse, they are just using the fuse block as a handy place to tap the ignition switched power.
when you look at the fuse block thats behind the panel at left of the drivers legs, on the right side of each fuse is 3 spade lugs. the right/forward most spade is the 'input' and is connected to the far (left) side of the fuse, while the left and middle spades are the 'output' side and are connected to the right side of the fuse.
coil pin 15 actually has TWO wires, the other one goes to ICU pin 2 and provides the power to the ignition control unit.
so... check to see that fuses 11/12/13 are powered when the ignition switch is on. check to see that there is a blue-yellow wire on the right-most terminal next to fuse 12, and a blue wire on the right-most terminal next to fuse 11. if there's no power at the blue-yellow wire, then perhaps your ignition switch is the problem ?
all my left/right directions are relative to the car, from the perspective of the seated driver...
lets see, Ignition switch pin '15' has a blue-yellow wire that goes to the 'input' side of fuse 12 (which is also tied to the input side of fuses 11 and 13 via a bus bar inside the fuse block). the input side of fuse 11 has a blue wire which runs directly to coil pin 15. note that this circuit is NOT going through any fuse, they are just using the fuse block as a handy place to tap the ignition switched power.
when you look at the fuse block thats behind the panel at left of the drivers legs, on the right side of each fuse is 3 spade lugs. the right/forward most spade is the 'input' and is connected to the far (left) side of the fuse, while the left and middle spades are the 'output' side and are connected to the right side of the fuse.
coil pin 15 actually has TWO wires, the other one goes to ICU pin 2 and provides the power to the ignition control unit.
so... check to see that fuses 11/12/13 are powered when the ignition switch is on. check to see that there is a blue-yellow wire on the right-most terminal next to fuse 12, and a blue wire on the right-most terminal next to fuse 11. if there's no power at the blue-yellow wire, then perhaps your ignition switch is the problem ?
all my left/right directions are relative to the car, from the perspective of the seated driver...
#12
#13
#14
#15
the side terminals on the coil should be labeled 15, 1 ... 15 should have two BLUE wires, one with ignition switched power, the other carries that same power to the ICU. the control wire to pin 1 from the ICU (and optionally to the tachometer) is grey on the 1987-1988 240 schematics I'm looking at.
the wiring diagrams for 87/88 show a red/black wire going to the ECU (fuel injection control unit) and the fuel pump relay, these are both under the passenger side dashboard, nowhere near the coil...
the wiring diagrams for 87/88 show a red/black wire going to the ECU (fuel injection control unit) and the fuel pump relay, these are both under the passenger side dashboard, nowhere near the coil...
#16
the side terminals on the coil should be labeled 15, 1 ... 15 should have two BLUE wires, one with ignition switched power, the other carries that same power to the ICU. the control wire to pin 1 from the ICU (and optionally to the tachometer) is grey on the 1987-1988 240 schematics I'm looking at.
the wiring diagrams for 87/88 show a red/black wire going to the ECU (fuel injection control unit) and the fuel pump relay, these are both under the passenger side dashboard, nowhere near the coil...
the wiring diagrams for 87/88 show a red/black wire going to the ECU (fuel injection control unit) and the fuel pump relay, these are both under the passenger side dashboard, nowhere near the coil...
#17
#18
ok, no timing pulses then.... that means the problem is the hall sensor or the ICU is not working (or a wiring issue between them). I dunno if you can 'back probe' the plug on the Chrysler ICU, but if you can, you could verify that pin 1 of the ICU also doesn't have pulses when the engine is cranked over... that should be a grey wire, same as whats connected to coil pin 1.
the plug on that chrysler ICU is quite fragile and needs to be handled carefully, do NOT rock it if you unplug it, you need to pull it straight out, and it has a rather high insertion force.
the hall sensor should have 3 wires, pin "-" is black wire. pin '0' is yellow, and pin '+' is green. the yellow and green wire are a 'balanced circuit', and the signal on them is a very weak differential pulse, very hard to measure if you don't have an oscilloscope.
the plug on that chrysler ICU is quite fragile and needs to be handled carefully, do NOT rock it if you unplug it, you need to pull it straight out, and it has a rather high insertion force.
the hall sensor should have 3 wires, pin "-" is black wire. pin '0' is yellow, and pin '+' is green. the yellow and green wire are a 'balanced circuit', and the signal on them is a very weak differential pulse, very hard to measure if you don't have an oscilloscope.