I am looking at a 1988 244DL. Here's the add narrative:

The good:
The car is registered, and passed smog (with flying colors) in march.
Cheap insurance- we paid just $33 monthly!
Within the past three months, the car has had an oil change, major tune up and alignment.
It gets great gas mileage (20city/25hwy) with smooth-shifting automatic transmission.
Has a CD player with 4 new pioneer speakers.
EXCELLENT interior- tan cloth seats with seat heaters (the driver's side works!) and no rips or tears in upholstery
Clean title, straight body

The bad:
The car will need new tires soon (in about 3-4 months, according to our mechanic)
Something is wrong with the engine- the car may have a bent rod or ?- It shakes badly and idles rough, but has been into the mechanic- he thinks it might be a bent rod, we just don't have the money to have him inspect it further. ( he estimates about $600 for repair if it is a bent rod. you're welcome to have a mechanic inspect it, or talk to ours about the work that needs to be done.)
paint oxidation on the hood and trunk.
The volvo was our daily driver until two weeks ago. it does run and drive, just not well. We have all receipts and even the original owner's manual from 1988.

So it sounds to me like a vaccuum, AMM, Fuel sensor problem. Wouldn't a bent rod be a death nell? A lot of noise to go with it? I am going to visit it tomorrow and see what I can see..
Thanks for your thoughts.
Bill

 

The engine mounts could be shot. Here is what they look like, you can see them from under the car. Volvo 240 Engine Mount- Engine Mounts- Volvo Parts I would not know anything about a bent rod...

 

I can't say I've ever heard of a swedish brick (4 cylinder volvo motor) with a bent rod. not saying it couldn't happen, but....

I'd be far more inclined to suspect a spark or injection problem in 1-2 cylinders causing rough idling, possibly compounded by shot engine and/or tranny mounts as the previous reply suggests.

a compression test in all 4 cylinders would likely give a big clue about the engine block condition.

 

Thanks to you both for the thoughts...I won't know until this evening when I go to view the car. I believe it'll be something electrical/fuel/vaccuum related because the PO's describe a car that was behaving well, the then just turned bad. In dealing with them on the phone, they're complete urbanites with no knowledge of automotive systems, and therefore probably guileless. We shall see. I will be sure to get back with my findings.

 

All,
Here's the skinny: I bought it for $450! Needs new motor mounts; can I lift the motor from the bottom, or do I have do it from above to get the clearence I need to swap the mounts?

There is a distinct valve lash noise that is probably a thicker disc solution, so the question is, what d'y'all use for the valve spring depressor and the disc removal tool (5022 and 5026, I think?).

Other than that, she needs rear control arm bushings, front control arm bushings, a ton of elbow grease, and some paint and body work to help the sun-burned hood, top, and trunk-lid. She is that metallic gray, dark as opposed to the silvery. Tan interior is cloth and in good shape save for the dirt.

Bill

 

i've never heard of a B230F that actually needed any valve adjustments, I thought they had self adjusting hydraulic lifters? now, true, my experience is limited to a half dozen cars.

our 87 240GL has gone 400K miles without any such, and we've a couple 200K+ mile 740/940 turbos also never had any valve adjustments (ok, I only have the service history on one of these 740s, but the 940 didn't look like the valve cover had ever been taken off, nor had our 240 until it had a minor oil leak last year).

 

I was looking up various procedures on AllData's DIY site, and it describes adjustment with different thicknesses of disk that fit in between the cam and the valve stem. As a Porsche owner, this is pretty wacky looking stuff, but thats how its done!

I have a "...TAP, TAP, TAPPITA..." going on under there at about #3, if I was to guess, and it sure sounds like valve lash problem to me. I still need to dive in an look for vacuum leaks first before messing with the motor mounts. I want to make sure the mounts really are bad first.

 

yeah, yer right, I just looked at the parts diagrams for the B230F engines, and sunny beaches, there are shims in there. I don't believe a valve lash check is part of -any- scheduled service intervals (I have a bmw motorcycle that you're supposed to check the valves every 6000 miles, but its super easy).

 

I was able to change my motor mounts by putting a jack and a piece of wood under where the transmission and engine meet. I used this method:
240mount

Be sure to disconnect the battery because you will be working next to the alternator.

Its best to use real Genuine Volvo mounts from a dealer or TascaParts.com because the aftermarket rubber won't last. Fcpgroton can get them but you have to call and ask for them.

I think ipdusa.com might still rent out the shim tool and the shims.

 

Bubba,
Cool. Thanks for all that info, but I am trying to restrain myself from jumping into the most "fun" thing first. Its been a crazy week after work this week, so today was my first day to really think and do some trouble-shooting.

Here's what I found. Cylinder four is where the tappata-tappata is coming from I believe. Also when I pull #4 spark lead there is no change in the idle...same terrible idle shake. When I pull the injector plug, no change either. Spark plug is properly gaped and there is spark from the distributor.

So, am I looking at a head gasket? Or do I have a sticking valve? Or what? I do have oil everywhere from the valve cover down, but that could be a bad VC gasket. I am going to do a compression test on all four Cylinders and see what that reveals, then maybe pull the Valve cover and take a look-see. Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

 

Thanks Pierce, too, for your confirmation. IF, and thats a big IF, I get to taking the Valve cover off, I will measure things just for giggles, but I hope to find a loose cam hold down, or sticking spring, or something that won't require the removal of the head! I will let you know what I find, if anything!

Regards,
Bill

 

if disconnecting the plug didn't change the idle, then that cylinder is getting no fuel, or has no compression, or that spark plug or wire is bad.

 

Pierce,
Yep, one of those three! The wire is fine. There is spark. I believe its getting fuel, but have to make myself certain with closer inspection with my multi-meter since I don't own any noid lights.
Lastly, a compression test, and I hope that comes back within norms, but I think I am kidding myself! Fingers crossed.
Bill

 

Update: Compression test revealed 175psi on Cylinders 1,2,&3. #4 Zero. Nada. Zilch. So, pulled the Rocker Cover. Exhaust valve on #4 is "stuck" open. That is while all the other valve clearances are .358mm, I can practically stick my fat pinky between the cam lobe and valve depressor. It is as though there is no spring under the depressor.

So, what next? Pull the camshaft and see what's up? Or is that a nasty can o' worms, and I should do something else first? Like hit with a really big hammer?

Regards,
Bill

 

I dunno, at this point, I think you have to take the head off, and determine if there's any piston damage... if no piston/cylinder damage, start looking for another head. AFAIK, you can use the head from ANY B230F (non-turbo) engine, they are all the same. you could even use a B230FT turbo head if you swap the camshaft (assuming yours is not damaged)

but you're way beyond where I quit and take it to a mechanic.

 

Thanks Pierce...what's the saying "Angels fear to tread, but fools rush in"? Well, I guess I am the fool. I have looked at several candidates today in my quest for replacement interior and exterior plastic parts (Swedish plastic doesn't do well in Mediterranean Sun, especially the "palomino"). There's a lovely '87 with a seemingly perfect head. Or could have mine re-machined. Pick n Pull quoted me $80 for a new head w/cam or a whole engine for $320. Still, I believe I'll investigate a bit further. Do these B230's suck valves very often?

Regards,
Bil

 

No, they typically don't have any valve problems unless they've been severely abused.

but stuff happens. my 'new' 745T is in the shop now with a yet-to-be-diagnosed problem which could turn out to be a bad valve, groan. It has 200K miles, my son's 940SE wagon has 240k miles, and our 240GL has 400K miles, without any engine problems.

 

If I was in your situation I would go to a salvage yard and get another B230F head. I would also check it for warpage before I left.

 

Pierce,
I believe I am going to Pick and Pull to get that 1987's head. Much as I don't want to, I believe that'll be the cheapest and least hassle solution. A head, exhaust, and intake gasket set and I'll be set...hopefully with a properly running 244DL!

Regards,
Bill

 

Bubba,
Good thoughts. Just use a known good straight edge to gauge warp age? I was reading where some is ok, but too much, well, I might as well have my current head cleaned up, correct?
Bill