Recently my 240 has had trouble starting. Over the past few weeks periodically I would turn the key and the car wouldn't start. For the first few times all I did was return the key to the starting position and then immediately retry to crank it, somehow hitting the "sweet spot" and getting the car to start. Before this, the car had no issues with starting or stuttering, it was exclusively limited to turning the key in the ignition. The dash light and power windows, radio, etc. all seem to be working. Checked battery and it tests around the "good" range on the load tester of 11-12.

Beyond this I am not quite sure what the next logical step is. I peeked at the fuses by the driver side door and although some of the terminals look slightly corroded all the corresponding components seem to be working properly. I've done some work on this car (harmonic balancer, water pump) but troubleshooting the electrical components is new terrain for me. I have a volt meter but I'm not sure what continuity/voltages i should be checking for and in what order. I have also been told that i can "jump" the starter solenoid and narrow down the problem but i am hesitant to try it without further recommendation. I can post pictures if requested.

 

Clarification ~ Is it turning over but won't start OR Is it doing nothing when turning the key to start?

If the later, try cleaning and tightening your battery terminals and related components.

Otherwise it sounds like an ignition or fuel issue with a wide range of things to look into ~ is there fuel and spark when cranking? Is the fuel pump relay energizing? Is the blade fuse and its holder on the drivers inner fender good and its connections tight? ......... and so on.

 

if this is a no-crank (the starter motor isn't even trying), it could be the park/neutral safety switch on the transmission, or the wiring to it.

 

It's not making any noise when the key is turned. I cleaned the battery terminals and cable ends and inspected the battery cables themselves. They look to be in pretty good condition.

I have no knowledge of this switch. I will do some reading and try to find it in the morning. Any additional details are graciously appreciated.

 

i'm assuming you have an automatic? (a stick shift doesn't have this switch).

the neutral safety switch is on the transmission, and detects if the gear shift lever is in PARK or NEUTRAL. it won't let the starter run if its not. if park doesn't work, try putting the lever in neutral (hold the brake and/or use the parking brake), and crank.... if it still doesn't turn over, hold the key in the 'start' position, and wiggle the gear shift lever back and forth a bit, and see if it cranks in any position near P or N

the starter circuit is really simple. two circuits, power and control.

the power circuit is the big red wire from the battery -> starter.

the control circuit goes from the battery -> starter switch -> park/neutral safety switch -> starter solenoid.

 

its also possible your ignition key 'start' position has failed.
or a pink wire (most of the starter control circuit wires are pink) got cut.
or the starter solenoid is stuck and you need a rebuilt starter.

you do have like at least 12.3 volts from your battery, right? fully charged, should be around 12.7V

 

Yes it's an automatic.


With the load tester it was a little low, between 11-12, and the headlights dim when i turn them on, which I have been told is a sign of a weak battery. I'm going to try to swap out the battery today if I can find a spare one at work. I will also try starting it in neutral.

 

Just tested the battery a little more attentively, it looks to be at 12.25v and when I flip the Load Switch it goes down to 11.

 

12.25V means the battery is likely past half dischanrged.

I would put that battery on a charger overnight and then see how it behaves.

but, 12.25 should be enough to trip the starter solenoid.

 

you have two wires going to the solenoid, aside from the battery/alternator connection see if you do have the wires attached to the blade connectors on the solenoid.

bu I do feel the same as Pierce regarding the battery charging and neutral switch

 

Your ignition key lock system is out of order. Try moving your key front and back while starting. You will need to change this lock inside the ignition keyhole.

 

charged battery. got it up to 12.7-12.9 and tried starting to no avail. gonna try to get it up on a jack this weekend and look for the neutral switch. is it possible to remove the switch and thus bypass it? or jump it with a wire?

 

there' a 2-pin connector somewhere near the shift lever, you can jumper it there. it ha a blue-yellow and 2 blue wires going into it on the car side, and both blue wires on the switch side.

ignition switch pin 50 ("Start") has a blue wire to this connector, and the other blue wire goes to the 'mechanics start jumper' under the hood. the blue-yellow wire goes to the starter solenoid pin 50

its just that simple. sadly, the parts diagrams are remarkably vague as to where this 2 pin connector is physically located, but if you can find that mechanics start jumper (single pin empty socket, with a blue wire), and follow it back, it should lead you to the jumper/connector.

the actual neutral/park safety switch is under the gear shifter lever, sandwiched in there with the shift indicator light and stuff.