1990 240DL Volvo
Hi all,
I'm interested in getting a used Volvo for my 16 year old son, and a locally owned 1990 240DL is available for $1200 from the original owner. He estimates it has 300k miles (Dash display gauges went out a couple of years ago.) Apparently nothing wrong with it and looks good in photos, but what could I expect to be repairing at this stage? Also, does that seem like a reasonable price, and how many more miles might it be good for?
Thanks for any advice, or opinions!
Kyle
I'm interested in getting a used Volvo for my 16 year old son, and a locally owned 1990 240DL is available for $1200 from the original owner. He estimates it has 300k miles (Dash display gauges went out a couple of years ago.) Apparently nothing wrong with it and looks good in photos, but what could I expect to be repairing at this stage? Also, does that seem like a reasonable price, and how many more miles might it be good for?
Thanks for any advice, or opinions!
Kyle
Last edited by kmead; Aug 2, 2011 at 12:37 PM.
look at the condition of the rubber tubing, both skinny vacuum stuff and fat radiator stuff, especially the heater hoses behind the engine that go to the firewall.... if thats all in good shape, odds are the car was well maintained. find out when the timing belt was last replaced (should be replaced every 60k miles on those), its a non-interference engine, so if/when it breaks, its just a tow to the shop and $$$ to fix, but still...
things that may be borderline on a 300K mile 240...
I speak from being the original owner of a 1987 240 that has about 400K miles (the odometer broke at 250k 15 years ago), and having replaced most all that over the years (ok, not the heater core on this car, just on 2 others, and our AC hasn't worked in 15+ years but I live where the climate is mild). the engines are darn near indestructible as long as you don't drive them without oil and coolant.... ditto the chassis and running gear.
interior plastics get brittle, especially the tan/beige color version. I'd make sure the drivers seat at least, the tracks work well enough for adjusting the seat.
things that may be borderline on a 300K mile 240...
- radiator
- heater core
- alternator
- water pump
- transmission
- suspension bushings
- camshaft seals
- air conditioning
I speak from being the original owner of a 1987 240 that has about 400K miles (the odometer broke at 250k 15 years ago), and having replaced most all that over the years (ok, not the heater core on this car, just on 2 others, and our AC hasn't worked in 15+ years but I live where the climate is mild). the engines are darn near indestructible as long as you don't drive them without oil and coolant.... ditto the chassis and running gear.
interior plastics get brittle, especially the tan/beige color version. I'd make sure the drivers seat at least, the tracks work well enough for adjusting the seat.
Thanks much for the reply, Pierce.
Out of that list, I might be able to do the radiator, alternator and water pump myself, but probably not the others. Could you estimate the cost of those repairs?
Also do you think $1200 is a fair price, and how many more miles might I expect it to live?
Thanks again for your help.
Out of that list, I might be able to do the radiator, alternator and water pump myself, but probably not the others. Could you estimate the cost of those repairs?
Also do you think $1200 is a fair price, and how many more miles might I expect it to live?
Thanks again for your help.
the heater core is a easy but time consuming job. My 20 yr old son, who's not particularlly mechanically inclined, managed to replace his on a 960 wagon. you take out the glove box and teh center console of the dashboard, and it comes out the bottom of the ventilation airbox. heater cores should last a very long time IF the car has always had the right sort of coolant in it.
worn suspension bushings just mean you get get a squeaky-clunky ride on bumpy roads, and maybe the car sags a little, you can drive it that way a long long time
the camshaft seal, when it goes, you leak oil out all over. its really not that hard of a job, either. I had my mechanic do it, and he did the timing belt, water pump, thermostat and a bunch more of that sort of stuff, and it was like $700 (but his shop is $100/hour labor...)
transmission, these automatic trannies are the same basic tranny used in a bunch of early/mid 80's rear wheel drive larger/nicer Toyotas... at about 350K miles of leadfoot driving, our 240 started to slip a little, and graduatally got worse. I think a full rebuild was about $1500, and that was at a shop that did a really good job, that will be good for another 350K miles (more if you don't floor it all the time off stoplights, hah hah).
AC, well... heh. we don't need it here, so I have never bothered to fix ours, it hasn't worked for 15 years. ours needs a new compressor, and I'd probably refit it for R134a (most all 240's were the old R12 which was banned and is no longer made). I dunno, maybe $1000 for a total redo at a good shop? really depends on what it needs.
worn suspension bushings just mean you get get a squeaky-clunky ride on bumpy roads, and maybe the car sags a little, you can drive it that way a long long time
the camshaft seal, when it goes, you leak oil out all over. its really not that hard of a job, either. I had my mechanic do it, and he did the timing belt, water pump, thermostat and a bunch more of that sort of stuff, and it was like $700 (but his shop is $100/hour labor...)
transmission, these automatic trannies are the same basic tranny used in a bunch of early/mid 80's rear wheel drive larger/nicer Toyotas... at about 350K miles of leadfoot driving, our 240 started to slip a little, and graduatally got worse. I think a full rebuild was about $1500, and that was at a shop that did a really good job, that will be good for another 350K miles (more if you don't floor it all the time off stoplights, hah hah).
AC, well... heh. we don't need it here, so I have never bothered to fix ours, it hasn't worked for 15 years. ours needs a new compressor, and I'd probably refit it for R134a (most all 240's were the old R12 which was banned and is no longer made). I dunno, maybe $1000 for a total redo at a good shop? really depends on what it needs.
That all sounds pretty good to me.
I also found out that the dashboard gauges have all quit working. Speedo, odo, fuel, etc. None work. Any idea what might cause that, and how much $ to fix?
Do you think it might be worth $1200?
Thanks so much for your time!
I also found out that the dashboard gauges have all quit working. Speedo, odo, fuel, etc. None work. Any idea what might cause that, and how much $ to fix?
Do you think it might be worth $1200?
Thanks so much for your time!
if *all* the dash gauges are out, its probably the connector or the ground. do the dashboard warning lights all come on when you turn the key to "II" (without starting the car) ?
value of a 20+ year old car with high mileage is extremely variable. one prominent forum member often says he never pays more than $500 for a Volvo, but then he completely strips them down to sheet metal and spends a year+ doing a total restoration/rebuild. hah. when he's done they are a brand new car. Witness: https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...project-41019/ and https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...er-mods-40947/
value of a 20+ year old car with high mileage is extremely variable. one prominent forum member often says he never pays more than $500 for a Volvo, but then he completely strips them down to sheet metal and spends a year+ doing a total restoration/rebuild. hah. when he's done they are a brand new car. Witness: https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...project-41019/ and https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...er-mods-40947/
Last edited by pierce; Aug 2, 2011 at 05:38 PM.
I'll check the warning lights when I go look at it this evening. I haven't seen it yet, just talked to the owner on the phone.
Would functional warning lights be evidence that it's not the ground or connector?
Thanks again. I appreciate your help.
Would functional warning lights be evidence that it's not the ground or connector?
Thanks again. I appreciate your help.
I don't have a decent set of 240 wiring diagrams, so I'm going to hedge on that last question. on a 740/940, most of the instruments and about half the 'idiot lights' come off one connector 'C' and most everything is grounded via one brown wire that comes from connector 'A'.
Hell, I think $1200 is high. You're potentially purchasing a car w/ $2k worth of repairs needed and indeterminate mileage. Do this...run a CarFax. Usually, there will be annual entries of mileage when the inspection is done. Broken odometers have always been broken "only a year or two". You may find that it rolled over 300k 10 years ago. We had an '08 Charger in the shop today with over 200k on it. Given the issues, and presuming the interior and exterior are pleasing to the eye...I'd probably offer $700 knowing full well I'll end up paying 900-1000. Volvo resale prices have risen sharply in the last 2 years. But...given the skill set you mention, please budget $1500-2000 over the next year for repairs to bring the car up to snuff. If you do not, you'll get deeper into the car than you expected and end up dumping it for a loss. The 240 is an almost perfect automobile...nothing comes close. Sadly, at this stage of most of their lives, maintenance has been reduced to gas and oil at best. Buy a Haynes manual if you do get the car and read it like a novel. By familiarizing yourself w/ the design, there's a good chance when an issue arises, you will know what direction to go!
p.s note to Pierce...actually, my first 3 Volvos total...were $500. $50 for the 89 245, $200 for the 84 760T and $250 for the 90 740GL. And you betcha, by the time I get done I'm way upside down with 'em!
p.s note to Pierce...actually, my first 3 Volvos total...were $500. $50 for the 89 245, $200 for the 84 760T and $250 for the 90 740GL. And you betcha, by the time I get done I'm way upside down with 'em!
Last edited by swiftjustice44; Aug 2, 2011 at 08:09 PM.
Anyways, unless you have some pictures that sell it because of the condition, I would not pay over a grand for 300k plus miles. Like said above, you will spend another grand minimum for repairs in the shop. At that stage I'm thinking the pumps, if original, are bound to go. Original Shocks, springs? You could ignore all the suggested, but not necessary repairs from a shop and drive on like everyone who owns a Volvo and doesn't know it. Oh, and you asked how much life was left in it? Well as everyone on eBay claims, a 300k Volvo 240 is BARELY BROKEN IN!!!
Whatever...
Whatever...
Well, he wanted $200 but the transmission was bad. Also, he was rather high at the time. I stopped him at $50 before he gave it to me and his wife beat him up. Turned out the tranny filter was black.Swapped it and 3 weeks later drove it from Dallas to Minneapolis and back. 80 mph and the a/c running non-stop!
This is what it looked like the day I bought it...worth $50?

$3000 later...


My point is, it's important on these cars to get into them as cheaply as possible. Whether you mod them like I do, or just want a grocery getter, it will take money and time to make them reliable. So...a low upfront cost is imperative for me.
This is what it looked like the day I bought it...worth $50?

$3000 later...


My point is, it's important on these cars to get into them as cheaply as possible. Whether you mod them like I do, or just want a grocery getter, it will take money and time to make them reliable. So...a low upfront cost is imperative for me.
$50... Did he ever consider... scrapping it for more??? What a deal though. I mean, I would drop $100 easy on a 240 and use the parts or sell it out. I would even pay $50 and sit the 240 out in the back yard to rust away for the amusement if the mechanics and interior were crap.
Now that we are off topic, I noticed you have the e-codes and side repeaters(side marker lights). Where did you buy your e-codes? And did the small Volvo badges covering the hole for the side repeaters leave an ugly outline? I'm considering both of these options, as well as those headlight wipers I asked about long ago, remember?
But... I may just go with a wiper and arm for looks, and not have it functional.
Now that we are off topic, I noticed you have the e-codes and side repeaters(side marker lights). Where did you buy your e-codes? And did the small Volvo badges covering the hole for the side repeaters leave an ugly outline? I'm considering both of these options, as well as those headlight wipers I asked about long ago, remember?
But... I may just go with a wiper and arm for looks, and not have it functional.
I got the e-codes from fcp. They're the DJohns aftermarket variety. They were super. You probably know this, but hte best way to remove emblems is w/ a heat gun and dental floss. Yes, there was an outline but it buffed out.
e-codes same as fcp Volvo 240 E-Code European Headlights Turn Signals 86-93 | eBay
As long as the glue is warmish, dental floss works great; easily stored, and has its own cutter.
As long as the glue is warmish, dental floss works great; easily stored, and has its own cutter.
Well, thanks to everyone for the replies and information.
I looked at it last night and it was not nearly as nice looking as the photos on Craigslist suggested. Several significant dents, faded paint, missing trim, broken taillight and headlight, cracked windshield and dashboard. Mechanically, it had a rusty exhaust system (with a loud leak), worn out shocks, leaky transmission with hard shifting around 40 mph, and a hood that wouldn't stay latched.
None of that would bother me a great deal and I could probably fix some of it myself, but I think I'll keep looking for a nicer one. The owner said he'd take $800, but that still feels high to me for the condition it's in.
On a related note, I was wondering if anyone has a favorite (old) Volvo model that they'd recommend for a new teenage driver. I'd like to stay under $2000.
Thanks again for your input.
Kyle
I looked at it last night and it was not nearly as nice looking as the photos on Craigslist suggested. Several significant dents, faded paint, missing trim, broken taillight and headlight, cracked windshield and dashboard. Mechanically, it had a rusty exhaust system (with a loud leak), worn out shocks, leaky transmission with hard shifting around 40 mph, and a hood that wouldn't stay latched.
None of that would bother me a great deal and I could probably fix some of it myself, but I think I'll keep looking for a nicer one. The owner said he'd take $800, but that still feels high to me for the condition it's in.
On a related note, I was wondering if anyone has a favorite (old) Volvo model that they'd recommend for a new teenage driver. I'd like to stay under $2000.
Thanks again for your input.
Kyle
Everyone here has opinions! And different too. I like 89-90 240's w/o ABS...that's just me. The ABS is pretty primitive and failing more and more at this late date.
1989 Volvo 240
This one is too old for a teenager but I went and looked at it...broken timing belt!
And, he went down to $500 immediately. He's owned it for 10 years, which is a good thing.
FS: 1982 Volvo 240 DL Wagon
1989 Volvo 240
This one is too old for a teenager but I went and looked at it...broken timing belt!
And, he went down to $500 immediately. He's owned it for 10 years, which is a good thing.
FS: 1982 Volvo 240 DL Wagon



Someone must have hated that and wanted to pass it on...