1990 240DL Volvo
#41
Hell, I think $1200 is high. You're potentially purchasing a car w/ $2k worth of repairs needed and indeterminate mileage. Do this...run a CarFax. Usually, there will be annual entries of mileage when the inspection is done. Broken odometers have always been broken "only a year or two". You may find that it rolled over 300k 10 years ago. We had an '08 Charger in the shop today with over 200k on it. Given the issues, and presuming the interior and exterior are pleasing to the eye...I'd probably offer $700 knowing full well I'll end up paying 900-1000. Volvo resale prices have risen sharply in the last 2 years. But...given the skill set you mention, please budget $1500-2000 over the next year for repairs to bring the car up to snuff. If you do not, you'll get deeper into the car than you expected and end up dumping it for a loss. The 240 is an almost perfect automobile...nothing comes close. Sadly, at this stage of most of their lives, maintenance has been reduced to gas and oil at best. Buy a Haynes manual if you do get the car and read it like a novel. By familiarizing yourself w/ the design, there's a good chance when an issue arises, you will know what direction to go!
p.s note to Pierce...actually, my first 3 Volvos total...were $500. $50 for the 89 245, $200 for the 84 760T and $250 for the 90 740GL. And you betcha, by the time I get done I'm way upside down with 'em!
p.s note to Pierce...actually, my first 3 Volvos total...were $500. $50 for the 89 245, $200 for the 84 760T and $250 for the 90 740GL. And you betcha, by the time I get done I'm way upside down with 'em!
I would love to able to buy any Volvo you have owned. Say, a certain 1990 740 white four door comes to mind. The operative words are able to buy.
Fred
Last edited by darkdelta; 08-13-2011 at 07:21 PM.
#42
I live in coastal northern California. Surf City and Hippie Central. plus its a university town (UCSC, prominent in marine biology, astrophysics, and computer science). Volvos are desirable, and halfway decent cars get good prices. heck, a lot of junk is overpriced.
I will get at least $1000 maybe more for my dented 855T with 120K miles once I put a new windscreen on it as its still a well maintained good driver, the doors still seal fine, and the interior is in great shape except for too many squeaks and rattles.
a tree fell on it. I woulda gotten $3000 the way it was. but it will make a college kid happy. good stereo, nice like-new leather seats. volvo dog/cargo gate, weathertech back mat, trailer hitch.
I will get at least $1000 maybe more for my dented 855T with 120K miles once I put a new windscreen on it as its still a well maintained good driver, the doors still seal fine, and the interior is in great shape except for too many squeaks and rattles.
a tree fell on it. I woulda gotten $3000 the way it was. but it will make a college kid happy. good stereo, nice like-new leather seats. volvo dog/cargo gate, weathertech back mat, trailer hitch.
#44
#45
#46
#47
#48
drive it and see for yourself. i'd be leary of a salvage title car, but I do know that can just mean it was in a fender bender who's estimate exceeded the car's low KBB price.
for $1000 I'd hope to get a very straight body, however, and one thats crunched from behind, I dunno. I think I'd want evidence of a 4-wheel alignment that shows the rear end is at the right distance and alignment from the front end.
for $1000 I'd hope to get a very straight body, however, and one thats crunched from behind, I dunno. I think I'd want evidence of a 4-wheel alignment that shows the rear end is at the right distance and alignment from the front end.
#49
#51
its hard to tell from that picture... measure under the front and back between the wheels to see what the ground clearance is.
any of the 2/7/9 cars can sag a bit in the back if the bushings are shot on the swingarms. the 760/960 sedans and wagons with the nivomat load leveling suspension sag badly if the rear nivomat shocks are shot. If someone stupidly puts regular shocks on a nivomat car (replacement nivomats are quite expensive), they sag really really badly. the alternatives are new nivomats in back for $250-500, or replace the springs with regular or overload wagon springs (about $50 for two new rear springs from IPD), then get conventional shocks like Bilstein TC. volvoforums sponsor Volvo Parts, BMW Parts, European Car Parts | FCPGroton.com has great deals on this stuff
any of the 2/7/9 cars can sag a bit in the back if the bushings are shot on the swingarms. the 760/960 sedans and wagons with the nivomat load leveling suspension sag badly if the rear nivomat shocks are shot. If someone stupidly puts regular shocks on a nivomat car (replacement nivomats are quite expensive), they sag really really badly. the alternatives are new nivomats in back for $250-500, or replace the springs with regular or overload wagon springs (about $50 for two new rear springs from IPD), then get conventional shocks like Bilstein TC. volvoforums sponsor Volvo Parts, BMW Parts, European Car Parts | FCPGroton.com has great deals on this stuff
#52
#53
The fender wells are cut much higher in front than in back which also fools the eye; that's why measuring from side to side is important.
I'd really have to investigate how a flexplate got bent. Flywheels are used on manuals, flexplates on autos. A flywheel is cast iron and ain't gonna bend. Flexplates are stamped steel and can. The issue is the car in question uses the holes in the perimeter of the flexplate to calculate engine rpm. To replace it calls for pulling the transmission. Not a good thing. 4-5 labor hours at a shop.
I'd really have to investigate how a flexplate got bent. Flywheels are used on manuals, flexplates on autos. A flywheel is cast iron and ain't gonna bend. Flexplates are stamped steel and can. The issue is the car in question uses the holes in the perimeter of the flexplate to calculate engine rpm. To replace it calls for pulling the transmission. Not a good thing. 4-5 labor hours at a shop.
#54
I'd be FAR more likely to suspect bad vibrations at speed are from the driveshaft center bearing, which is, in my book, a 150-200K mile replacement item... or a bent rim/wheel (had to replace two rims on my 745, they were bent so badly that when they were on the front wheels the steering shimmied something fierce above 45mph)..
#55
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