1990 240DL Volvo

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  #41  
Old 08-13-2011, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by swiftjustice44
Hell, I think $1200 is high. You're potentially purchasing a car w/ $2k worth of repairs needed and indeterminate mileage. Do this...run a CarFax. Usually, there will be annual entries of mileage when the inspection is done. Broken odometers have always been broken "only a year or two". You may find that it rolled over 300k 10 years ago. We had an '08 Charger in the shop today with over 200k on it. Given the issues, and presuming the interior and exterior are pleasing to the eye...I'd probably offer $700 knowing full well I'll end up paying 900-1000. Volvo resale prices have risen sharply in the last 2 years. But...given the skill set you mention, please budget $1500-2000 over the next year for repairs to bring the car up to snuff. If you do not, you'll get deeper into the car than you expected and end up dumping it for a loss. The 240 is an almost perfect automobile...nothing comes close. Sadly, at this stage of most of their lives, maintenance has been reduced to gas and oil at best. Buy a Haynes manual if you do get the car and read it like a novel. By familiarizing yourself w/ the design, there's a good chance when an issue arises, you will know what direction to go!

p.s note to Pierce...actually, my first 3 Volvos total...were $500. $50 for the 89 245, $200 for the 84 760T and $250 for the 90 740GL. And you betcha, by the time I get done I'm way upside down with 'em!
Jon,
I would love to able to buy any Volvo you have owned. Say, a certain 1990 740 white four door comes to mind. The operative words are able to buy.

Fred
 

Last edited by darkdelta; 08-13-2011 at 07:21 PM.
  #42  
Old 08-13-2011, 04:03 PM
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I live in coastal northern California. Surf City and Hippie Central. plus its a university town (UCSC, prominent in marine biology, astrophysics, and computer science). Volvos are desirable, and halfway decent cars get good prices. heck, a lot of junk is overpriced.

I will get at least $1000 maybe more for my dented 855T with 120K miles once I put a new windscreen on it as its still a well maintained good driver, the doors still seal fine, and the interior is in great shape except for too many squeaks and rattles.





a tree fell on it. I woulda gotten $3000 the way it was. but it will make a college kid happy. good stereo, nice like-new leather seats. volvo dog/cargo gate, weathertech back mat, trailer hitch.
 
  #43  
Old 08-13-2011, 11:30 PM
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Ouch. Must not have been a sequoia that hit it!
 
  #44  
Old 08-14-2011, 01:37 AM
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was a black acacia, and just the crown of the tree. if it had been a redwood (we don't have sequoias here, just their relatives the coastal redwood), or a douglas fir, hah, that car would have been flattened.
 
  #45  
Old 08-14-2011, 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by pierce
if I had my choice I'd be looking for a low mileage clean 94/95 940 turbo wagon.
Pierce, any reason you wouldn't want a 94 940 non turbo sedan with 203K, or a 1993 940 turbo wagon with 190K?
 

Last edited by kmead; 08-14-2011 at 07:51 AM.
  #46  
Old 08-14-2011, 11:35 AM
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I like wagons. the straight 8-valve engine is kind of gutless in a wagon. the 94+ turbos have a modified engine block that has piston skirt coolers. note that I ended up buying a 92 after shopping on and off for the better part of a year.
 
  #47  
Old 08-14-2011, 08:02 PM
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Are you saying that a non-turbo wagon lacks power? I think I may have just found one: a 1994 940 wagon with 188,000 miles for $1000. It was rear ended and has a salvage title, but owner claims it he has driven it safely for 2 years.
 
  #48  
Old 08-14-2011, 08:43 PM
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drive it and see for yourself. i'd be leary of a salvage title car, but I do know that can just mean it was in a fender bender who's estimate exceeded the car's low KBB price.

for $1000 I'd hope to get a very straight body, however, and one thats crunched from behind, I dunno. I think I'd want evidence of a 4-wheel alignment that shows the rear end is at the right distance and alignment from the front end.
 
  #49  
Old 08-15-2011, 09:06 PM
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The owner also told me that "The flywheel was bent somehow about 1 year ago and our mechanic was able to fix it without replacing it but it causes it to accelerate slowly above 45 mph." How does a flywheel get bent, and how could that affect the car's power?
 
  #50  
Old 08-15-2011, 09:14 PM
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Is the car supposed to sit this way with the front slightly higher than the rear?
 
  #51  
Old 08-15-2011, 10:47 PM
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its hard to tell from that picture... measure under the front and back between the wheels to see what the ground clearance is.

any of the 2/7/9 cars can sag a bit in the back if the bushings are shot on the swingarms. the 760/960 sedans and wagons with the nivomat load leveling suspension sag badly if the rear nivomat shocks are shot. If someone stupidly puts regular shocks on a nivomat car (replacement nivomats are quite expensive), they sag really really badly. the alternatives are new nivomats in back for $250-500, or replace the springs with regular or overload wagon springs (about $50 for two new rear springs from IPD), then get conventional shocks like Bilstein TC. volvoforums sponsor Volvo Parts, BMW Parts, European Car Parts | FCPGroton.com has great deals on this stuff
 
  #52  
Old 08-16-2011, 07:25 AM
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Ok, thanks again Pierce. The owner has informed me that it's vibrations that prevent the car from accelerating too quickly above 45 mph. From the bent flywheel, presumably.
 
  #53  
Old 08-16-2011, 07:49 PM
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The fender wells are cut much higher in front than in back which also fools the eye; that's why measuring from side to side is important.
I'd really have to investigate how a flexplate got bent. Flywheels are used on manuals, flexplates on autos. A flywheel is cast iron and ain't gonna bend. Flexplates are stamped steel and can. The issue is the car in question uses the holes in the perimeter of the flexplate to calculate engine rpm. To replace it calls for pulling the transmission. Not a good thing. 4-5 labor hours at a shop.
 
  #54  
Old 08-16-2011, 07:52 PM
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I'd be FAR more likely to suspect bad vibrations at speed are from the driveshaft center bearing, which is, in my book, a 150-200K mile replacement item... or a bent rim/wheel (had to replace two rims on my 745, they were bent so badly that when they were on the front wheels the steering shimmied something fierce above 45mph)..
 
  #55  
Old 08-22-2011, 10:22 PM
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Back again after a long absence, this time looking at a 96 Volvo 850 Turbo for $2500, has 161K. It needs an a/c evaporator. What should that cost?
Also the abs light is coming on intermittently. What might cause that, and how much $ to remedy it?
Thanks as always for the advice.
 
  #56  
Old 08-22-2011, 10:25 PM
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this is the 240/740/940 section ... the 850 is a completely different car and has its own section.
 
  #57  
Old 08-23-2011, 06:37 AM
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Right you are, Pierce. Sorry. I'll post it there.
Thanks.
 
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