1990 Volvo 240DL Struggles To Run After Battery Dies
#1
1990 Volvo 240DL Struggles To Run After Battery Dies
Hi!
Im new here but have been reading for years. I have a strange problem. Whenever my battery dies or I disconnect it, The car will struggle to run. It will crank but not stay running. I have to keep pressing the throttle pedal to keep it running until it finally can stay running on its own, which is about 20 minutes. After I get it running again, for the next 3 to 4 days, the initial acceleration seems to kinda bog down. After the 3 or 4 days, its like back to normal. This also happens if I remove the 25 Amp fuse under the hood (which hopefully wont ever happen again as I have replaced the connector and relocated the fuse). I have 2 codes on my OBD, one is for MAF and the other is for O2 sensor. I tried a new MAF from ebay but the car will not even start with it installed so I reinstalled my old one. I cant change the O2 until I can get a new exhaust line installed. But still, this is so super strange. Can someone please help me to understand what is going on? I have a few other issues that I like to ask about but I wont do it on this post. Its my everyday driver and it serves me extremely well. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Here a link to my car on YouTube:
Im new here but have been reading for years. I have a strange problem. Whenever my battery dies or I disconnect it, The car will struggle to run. It will crank but not stay running. I have to keep pressing the throttle pedal to keep it running until it finally can stay running on its own, which is about 20 minutes. After I get it running again, for the next 3 to 4 days, the initial acceleration seems to kinda bog down. After the 3 or 4 days, its like back to normal. This also happens if I remove the 25 Amp fuse under the hood (which hopefully wont ever happen again as I have replaced the connector and relocated the fuse). I have 2 codes on my OBD, one is for MAF and the other is for O2 sensor. I tried a new MAF from ebay but the car will not even start with it installed so I reinstalled my old one. I cant change the O2 until I can get a new exhaust line installed. But still, this is so super strange. Can someone please help me to understand what is going on? I have a few other issues that I like to ask about but I wont do it on this post. Its my everyday driver and it serves me extremely well. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Here a link to my car on YouTube:
#2
#4
I have a new battery. The MAF was new too but the car will not start with it installed so Im using my old one. I noticed the problem when I changed the fuse and holder, then my battery died. After charging it, i had this issue again. Got a new battery. the same issue. After 20 minutes, the car will run fine and continue to run fine until i disconnect the battery....FOR ANY REASON.
#7
Yes, the alternator is charging the battery. 14.3 to 14.4 with the engine running. If I disconnect the battery right now, ill have the problem. If i never have to disconnect the battery, ill never have the problem. Strange! Only when the car has 0 volts.
#9
that voltage is too high it should be around 13.8 after it has been idling for a while. you may have an over charging situation
going on. i would double check that reading.
#10
Ok. This morning it was 19 degrees outside. I started the car (with no issues), and ran the heat on low "(1)". After 15 minutes, the voltage was at 13.8. I dont believe that the charging is an issue.
#12
The only time Ive had to disconnect the battery was when I had to replace it and when I reworked the 25 amp fuse holder. The old one wouldnt keep a charge so I had to jump it off several times until i was able to replace it. Every time I had to jump it, the issue I explained appeared. Ive had the new battery for a month. A few nights ago I accidentally left my parking lights on and ran the battery down. The issue reappeared. Its been 5 days since and the car has been fine. Whatever is happening only happens when either the battery voltage is low, or disconnected, OR that 25 amp fuse is removed.
#13
well it seems at least on the surface the charging system is working properly and should keep the new battery
charged. you could do a load test but if the engine starts and runs reliably then probably not necessary.
perhaps you can just watch it for now. btw i love your "anti-theft" starter switch
charged. you could do a load test but if the engine starts and runs reliably then probably not necessary.
perhaps you can just watch it for now. btw i love your "anti-theft" starter switch
#14
well it seems at least on the surface the charging system is working properly and should keep the new battery
charged. you could do a load test but if the engine starts and runs reliably then probably not necessary.
perhaps you can just watch it for now. btw i love your "anti-theft" starter switch
charged. you could do a load test but if the engine starts and runs reliably then probably not necessary.
perhaps you can just watch it for now. btw i love your "anti-theft" starter switch
#15
Well, its fine at the moment. 100% confidence that it will start and run as it should. But in the back of my mind, I know if I disconnect that battery, Im going to have this problem. Its like the ECU loses communication with all the sensors or something or forgets theirs values or.......whatever. A true nuisance. And thanks about the switch. Its a nice mod.
I think your MAF is dying and the cheap aftermarket (non-Bosch) are junk as far as what I have read. Try to get a Bosch unit. I usually pick them up in the junkyard for about $35 when I see them there (getting harder to find). It has to be off of a '89 or later model including 740's or 940's (same engine).
#16
That is how it was explained to me way back when I was still taking my 240 to the dealer. Usually, after installing the battery and running for a while, the ECU will compensate somewhat for a bad MAF and the car will run and drive pretty much normally. Under these circumstances it will throw a code as you have mentioned.
I think your MAF is dying and the cheap aftermarket (non-Bosch) are junk as far as what I have read. Try to get a Bosch unit. I usually pick them up in the junkyard for about $35 when I see them there (getting harder to find). It has to be off of a '89 or later model including 740's or 940's (same engine).
I think your MAF is dying and the cheap aftermarket (non-Bosch) are junk as far as what I have read. Try to get a Bosch unit. I usually pick them up in the junkyard for about $35 when I see them there (getting harder to find). It has to be off of a '89 or later model including 740's or 940's (same engine).
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
jdub90
1998-2000 model year V70
16
03-03-2017 04:25 PM