Hello all,
I'm hoping to get alittle bit of direction on what to check since this volvo has got me stumped.

1991 Volvo 240, engine cranks fine, no weird noises coming from under the hood. Car just will not start.
This is what I've checked/done so far:
Car has spark at the coil and all 4 plugs.
Both fuel pumps are working, high pressure pump just replaced (thought this was the problem originally).
The timing belt is not broken, cam spins when the engine cranks.
There's 12volts at fuse #6.
There's 12volts at fuse #4 with the engine cranking.
Fuel pump relay clicks when ignition key is turned.

Not sure where to go from here.

Also some questions I have on the fuel injection...
I thought I read there is a fuel injection fuse underhood near the battery? I can't find a fuse anywhere.
Is there any way to check the fuel injectors to see if they are getting a signal?
Is there a relay for the injectors?

Any help you guys can offer would be appreciated.

Thanks.

 

how's your RPM sensor?

 

Good troubleshooting so far.

Check to make sure your system relay is providing 12V to the injectors/AMM by measuring the orange wire at AMM #5.

In 91 the underhood fuse was replaced by fuse #6.

Pull a plug and make sure it isn't really rich.

Check for OBD codes in both sockets 2 and 6.

Your RPM sensor is fine since you have spark.

The LH2.4 (89-93) wire diagram can be found here: http://www.volvo-forums.com/t27428-r...-volvo-240.htm

 

For about $12 at NAPA you can buy a noid light. You unplug the fuel injector and plug in the noid light. I should blink everytime that injector is being told to fire, if not something is amiss.

Lou

 

At the moment I'm victim to a curbside garage and plenty of rain. Tomorrow is calling for sunshine and no rain so until then I'll have the time to run to napa and pick up a noid light (didn't know they had something like that).

Plugs looked fine when I was checking for spark, didn't look like the car was running rich, clean plugs.

I'll check voltage at the fuel injectors. Also tried to pull codes from the obd but no luck, corrosion I'm guessing. Only got the the led to light once and I couldn't get any codes. The led just constantly flashed until I turned the key off. Not even a 1-1-1.

At this point the RPM sensor should be alright cause there's spark?

Once I check the fuel injectors I'll post my findings.

Thanks.

 

Well alittle rain never hurt anyone.....

Checked the obd #2 and #6, after some wiggling got 1-1-1 on both. Did some more reading and figured out the constant flashing I got before was test mode. Still no fault codes though.

Have 12volts at #5 on the mass airflow meter.

Will be running to NAPA in about an hour for a noid light.

Is there any way to check fuel pressure on this car? I don't see a shrader valve on the fuel rail to screw in a guage. I can hear the high pressure fuel pump turning on when then car cranks. Would the car run if the low pressure pump in the tank wasn't pumping and only the high pressure was?

 

If no voltage at fuel injectors, check radio suppression relay. Not sure if 240s have one. Go to www.stepbystepvolvo.com for free guide to 740 no-starts (B230, LH2.2)

 

no radio suppression relay on 240's.

The factory manual shows checking fuel pressure by installing a banjo fitting at the end of the fuel rail, a little obtuse.

With power off, unplug the air mass meter. Try to run it this way (in limp home mode).

A car can run, not very well, with the main pump only.

 

Well, after days of fiddling the culprit emerged. Stretched timing belt...wasn't completely broken since it was still spinning the cam up until about an hour ago.

Does anyone know of an online diagram to install the timing belt showing where the gear timing marks should be? No haynes manual at the local parts store, a few days to order one.

This is the first Volvo I've had apart...Is the timing mark on the crank pulley 0 degrees to set the distributor?

Thanks.

 

Here's a pic of the timing marks.

 

If it's an automatic tranny you're going to need to figure out how to hold the crankshaft while you loosen/tighten the crank pulley bolt. Do a search on "rope trick."

 

Thank you, it's very much appreciated.
Am I right in assuming the timing mark on the crank pulley should line up with zero degrees on the timing tab to set the position of the distributor and rotor at cylinder #1 ? At least to get the car started to set the timing.
I know this is normally the case but don't want to take it for granted on this car.

 

Thanks...this one I've done before on a quad to replace the clutch.

 

Hey all,
Thanks for all the help and the forums. Cars back on the road and running nice.